bad rings ?

ACF

Active Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2017
Threads
30
Messages
98
i have the following engine briggs and stratton model 33r877-0009-g1 it does not want to start cleaned carb still will not start. but will run run also long as starter fluid is put into carb, replaced carb with new one still would not start. after running engine with either there was one coming out of the muffler. did compression check results were 80 psi performed a leak down test found air going into crankcase. i want to someone to verfiy what i think is the problem, and that is that the rings are bad and need replaced. the mower is dated between a 2008-2015 so is it worth the money to do the ring replacement.

thanks for advice
 

StarTech

Lawn Royalty
Top Poster Of Month
Joined
Feb 19, 2020
Threads
93
Messages
11,588
First is there oil in the breather tube? If so you probably got a blown head gasket which is common on the 31/33 series engines. To verify pull the rocker and perform the leak down test again. If the air escaping sound is louder at the push rod galley then at the dipstick tube then it is a blown head gasket.
 

frenchriverco

Member
Joined
Nov 19, 2022
Threads
0
Messages
13
80 PSI should be sufficient to run. Goal is around 90, but 80 isn't terrible. If it runs on starter fluid or ether, then it sounds more like a fuel supply issue. Perform the usual checks: air filter, fuel filter, overhaul the carburetor. My guess is the carb.
 

ACF

Active Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2017
Threads
30
Messages
98
oil comes out muffler installed new carb still no start unless using starting fluid
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
65
Messages
24,995
Does the carb have a solenoid ?
If so does it retract when you turn the key on ?
 

dana a

Active Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2016
Threads
8
Messages
97
First is there oil in the breather tube? If so you probably got a blown head gasket which is common on the 31/33 series engines. To verify pull the rocker and perform the leak down test again. If the air escaping sound is louder at the push rod galley then at the dipstick tube then it is a blown head gasket.
Star Tech. I have a question about your comment here. I have a thread about getting a steel pipe out of a 1973 Craftsman Surburban with a Tecumseh OH160 head. I got the thing running but after it runs a few minutes it starts blowing oil out the vent tube. I asked the head man at the local Cub Cadet place and he said the only thing he could think of was blown crank seals, I did not replace them. The seals had not been leaking. Is it very likely that I may have a blown head gasket? I put a new one on and torqued it down in small increments to the specified torque.
I've never done a leak down test before. Is it done by locking down the crankshaft at top dead center then pressurizing the cyliner and listening at the places you mentioned?
 

StarTech

Lawn Royalty
Top Poster Of Month
Joined
Feb 19, 2020
Threads
93
Messages
11,588
Yes it is done by locking the crankshaft at TDC compression stroke on L heads. The same with OHV engine for the standard leak down test but I use a modify test as I have low pressure leak down tester and I check the complete stroke on them. It because many of the tester uses 100 psi air to do the test and you can not hold the flywheel by hand. My current tester operates at about 12 psi for the same tests.

But a note here the Tecumseh has a different push galley setup then the Briggs in this thread and I have yet to test the OH160 engine beside I not even seen one of them in my shop. I came in professionally when the original Tecumseh OEM was leaving the market. I think I have seen one Tecumseh engine here in the last two years and the that one is in the junk pile as the carburetor was NLA from anybody.
 

dana a

Active Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2016
Threads
8
Messages
97
Yes it is done by locking the crankshaft at TDC compression stroke on L heads. The same with OHV engine for the standard leak down test but I use a modify test as I have low pressure leak down tester and I check the complete stroke on them. It because many of the tester uses 100 psi air to do the test and you can not hold the flywheel by hand. My current tester operates at about 12 psi for the same tests.

But a note here the Tecumseh has a different push galley setup then the Briggs in this thread and I have yet to test the OH160 engine beside I not even seen one of them in my shop. I came in professionally when the original Tecumseh OEM was leaving the market. I think I have seen one Tecumseh engine here in the last two years and the that one is in the junk pile as the carburetor was NLA from anybody.
OK. Thanks Star Tech.I will try the leak test. I have the engine back on the mower. I'll put it in high gear and set the brake and hope that it doesn't take off out thru the garage door, LOL. I'll start of with low air pressure first. I have to say one thing about this OH160, I've never seen any small engine built as stout as this one is. It's a shame Tecumseh went out of business. I took a Tecumseh push mower engine apart several years ago and it had a piston oil pump inside.
 

Tinkerer200

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2015
Threads
4
Messages
913
"I took a Tecumseh push mower engine apart several years ago and it had a piston oil pump inside."

And they had a screen over the intake which got gummed up and sealed off by neglect resulting in thrown rods. I always took the screen out when I had one apart.
And crankcase seals is not your problem.

Walt Conner
 

dana a

Active Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2016
Threads
8
Messages
97
"I took a Tecumseh push mower engine apart several years ago and it had a piston oil pump inside."

And they had a screen over the intake which got gummed up and sealed off by neglect resulting in thrown rods. I always took the screen out when I had one apart.
And crankcase seals is not your problem.

Walt Conner
Walt, would that go for crankshaft seals too? In the earlier post I just said crank seals.
dana
 
Top