B & S Engine Mower Running Rough

Cable (circled in blue) must go through the 'holder' (circled in red). That cable should attach firmly to the holder. That might be what the zip tie is for, although I've put zip ties on handlebars to hold the operator presence bar in place so as to not have to keep restarting the engine. But this one is in the wrong place to do that.

Hope this helps.Toro cable.JPG
 
primerbulb120 said:
Here's what's going on:

1. The cable that connects to the engine is basically a kill switch. The other end is connected to the operator presence bar (the bar you release to stop the mower.) In your case, the cable has come loose from it's mount on the handle, so when you hold the bar down it doesn't put tension on the cable. See the white zip tie on the handle? It's hanging next to a plastic bracket. The plastic bracket has a large hole in the top, parallel to the cable. I'm not sure how the cable got out of that hole, but it needs to be going through that hole in order for the mechanism to work properly. Disconnect it at the engine (easier than doing it at the handle) and thread it through the hole. Then hook it back up to the engine. If cpurvis sees this, hopefully he can circle the parts I'm talking about. I'm on my tablet again and can't edit pictures.

2. The broken spring (yes, it is broken) has nothing to do with the engine not starting. It's part of the self propel mechanism. Unless the self propel systems starts acting weird (the mower doesn't want to stop moving) I would leave it alone. I think I disconnected that spring on my old Toro to make it easier to operate, and I don't remember having any issues as a result.
Click to expand...

I will give it a try tomorrow. Yes pictures are always the best for me :wink: Without having the mower in front of me while reading your note, everthing that you menion doesn't totally click. One thing is, Disconnect it at the engine--Where does it disconnect at the engine? Thanks as always for your help!!
 
cpurvis said:
Cable (circled in blue) must go through the 'holder' (circled in red). That cable should attach firmly to the holder. That might be what the zip tie is for, although I've put zip ties on handlebars to hold the operator presence bar in place so as to not have to keep restarting the engine. But this one is in the wrong place to do that.

Hope this helps.View attachment 32400
Click to expand...

Thank you for the picture. The zip tie has nothing to do with anything. I should have cut and removed, just didn't do it.
 
cpurvis said:
Cable (circled in blue) must go through the 'holder' (circled in red). That cable should attach firmly to the holder. That might be what the zip tie is for, although I've put zip ties on handlebars to hold the operator presence bar in place so as to not have to keep restarting the engine. But this one is in the wrong place to do that.

Hope this helps.View attachment 32400
Click to expand...

Thanks! :cool: Just one correction though: the cable doesn't attach firmly to the holder, it's supposed to be able to slide in the holder.
 
primerbulb120 said:
Thanks! :cool: Just one correction though: the cable doesn't attach firmly to the holder, it's supposed to be able to slide in the holder.
Click to expand...

The cable housing doesn't slide in the holder, does it? I don't see how a cable can work if the housing is free to move.
 
cpurvis said:
The cable housing doesn't slide in the holder, does it? I don't see how a cable can work if the housing is free to move.
Click to expand...

That is kind of what I was thinking. I understand the part about unhooking from the engine piece(shown in #69). Then the cable goes throught the housing on the handle and reattached on the engine piece and that's it?
 
That is indeed 'it' if the final result is that the kill switch/blade brake lever on the engine moves forward when the operator presence handle is in the "run" position.
 
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