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I have a Briggs and Stratton 8hp engine that I'm using to repower John Deere 68 riding mower. The model information is 193702 0215 01 90100830
and the part as per attached pic. As shown, it is attached to the rewind housing, on the carb side. It doesn't show on the IPL list downloaded from Briggs and Stratton. Anyone know what it is and what the function would be or where it is wired to?

Kind of looks like a voltage regulator, but I have never seen anything like it on briggs.

Close IL, it is a solid start rectifier. Have not see one in many years. Took awhile for me to find it in this manual. Used on the first series of "alternators" Briggs put out. You can check it out on page 58-59 of this manual.

https://doc-0g-5o-docs.googleuserco...253/*/0B6NaqjIxWV1yeVdtMUNaTzlpWmc?e=download

Rivets said:

Close IL, it is a solid start rectifier. Have not see one in many years. Took awhile for me to find it in this manual. Used on the first series of "alternators" Briggs put out. You can check it out on page 58-59 of this manual.

https://doc-0g-5o-docs.googleuserco...253/*/0B6NaqjIxWV1yeVdtMUNaTzlpWmc?e=download

Click to expand...

Is'nt great when someone has the EXACT info. you're looking for ............. This site has the greatest guys with the most info. and willing to put forth the effort to help. I LOVE this site
Rivets........ NICE JOB !! ........:thumbsup: ....:cool2: ..........Boobala

This is the link to what Rivets was trying to give you about the UNknown part ....

..................http://www.ccdist.com/_serviceManuals/briggs/CE8069.pdf

Rivets said:

Close IL, it is a solid start rectifier. Have not see one in many years. Took awhile for me to find it in this manual. Used on the first series of "alternators" Briggs put out. You can check it out on page 58-59 of this manual.

https://doc-0g-5o-docs.googleuserco...253/*/0B6NaqjIxWV1yeVdtMUNaTzlpWmc?e=download

Click to expand...

Thanks! Can't seem to get the document link to work. It opens a new blank page. Am I doing something wrong? Is it possible to PM doc?

Hi donens,
What model Ingersoll machine do you have?

I have Case/Ingersoll 220, 224 and 444. All powered by Kohler. Have mowers and tillers for 224 and 444, Lawnsweeper which I'm trying to rebuild but have problem in finding replacement brushes that aren't super expensive.

donens said:

I have a Briggs and Stratton 8hp engine that I'm using to repower John Deere 68 riding mower. The model information is 193702 0215 01 90100830
and the part as per attached pic. As shown, it is attached to the rewind housing, on the carb side. It doesn't show on the IPL list downloaded from Briggs and Stratton. Anyone know what it is and what the function would be or where it is wired to?
View attachment 25514View attachment 25515

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Model 68 John Deere electric start was a option. If you bought the electric start accessory it came with a small battery charger which you plugged in the wall over night when you were done mowing. You shouldn't need it unless you plan the add the electric start. That old John Deere model 68 was a nice mower but it didn't turn very sharp and they don't make parts for it anymore. They also made a two blade 34in. mower deck to fit that model.

Thanks! Probably rewire the JD 68 completely with more modern components. The only safety features are the neutral switch on the transmission and the brake switch at the front. Also, no lights on machine. I just need to put ignition switch with starter position to solenoid, and the solenoid. The repowering engine has already has alternator, starter, flywheel with ring gear and alt. magnets.

donens said:

Thanks! Probably rewire the JD 68 completely with more modern components. The only safety features are the neutral switch on the transmission and the brake switch at the front. Also, no lights on machine. I just need to put ignition switch with starter position to solenoid, and the solenoid. The repowering engine has already has alternator, starter, flywheel with ring gear and alt. magnets.

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I know it would be the way I would go. I changed one over to electric start but instead of using a key switch I used a starter button, but never added a charging system. Seeing you have all the parts to do so add a charging system for sure.

Try this website and click on the "Handy mans guide to older engines". Hope this works.


Briggs & Statton Repair Manuals! - MyTractorForum.com - The Friendliest Tractor Forum and Best Place for Tractor Information

reynoldston! By the away, what's the machine pic of your avatar?

I looked at the document from new link! I assume it's the page 58 and 59 of Section 7 on Alternators. It looks similar except the pic looks like the plug isn't integrated with the part. Shows the rectifier beside the plug terminals in the housing. Just not sure, and definitely don't know what function it serves?

A solid state rectifier is used to rectify (convert) AC current to DC current. The charging system (stator) produces AC current which in most cases is of no use on most pieces of small engine equipment.

donens said:

reynoldston! By the away, what's the machine pic of your avatar?

?

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2000 Ferris Pro 60. It was over 8000 dollars when I bought it new in 2000 but well worth the money. I hope it will be the last mower I will ever have to buy.

donens said:

I have Case/Ingersoll 220, 224 and 444. All powered by Kohler. Have mowers and tillers for 224 and 444, Lawnsweeper which I'm trying to rebuild but have problem in finding replacement brushes that aren't super expensive.

Click to expand...

Hi Donens,
Do you know about this site?:laughing:
Case Colt Ingersoll Lawn and Garden Tractor Forum

Rivets said:

A solid state rectifier is used to rectify (convert) AC current to DC current. The charging system (stator) produces AC current which in most cases is of no use on most pieces of small engine equipment.

Click to expand...

So, do you mean connecting the alternator wire (diode wire) directly to the battery will not work without such a rectifier? The alternator has a dual plug with for what I thought was a battery charging circuit and a lights circuit.

Sorry, but now you have got me. Without being there to test each one of the plugs I can't tell you how to continue. I don't know what type of stator and charging system you have on your engine. With out being able to see all parts, I will only be giving guesses, which could destroy the entire system and/or battery.

Rivets said:

Sorry, but now you have got me. Without being there to test each one of the plugs I can't tell you how to continue. I don't know what type of stator and charging system you have on your engine. With out being able to see all parts, I will only be giving guesses, which could destroy the entire system and/or battery.

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Pictures ....... man ....... pictures..... it's surprising how much I see in all the photos I take when ever I work on ANYTHING ..... I go in overkill mode, you can always delete them, ( using a digital camera of course) ... and sometimes I use the video mode.... SO MUCH better than any manual , especially when using MACRO mode , If you look at my albums on this site you'll understand what I mean, ........ if those seeking help would give some pertinent info. ( model, serial, type, family , year and ALL the associated info. ) then the folks in the position of offering their time and help could do a better job , faster and with less frustration, I see some posts asking for help ...... ( ie. - My mower quit running , can you help me out ?? ) " Sure, which way did ya come in " ...... seriously, ....... I can tell Rivets and the others are trying to help the best they can and it's frustrating trying to help someone fix something when you're not physically there with hands and eyes on . Sorry for ranting , but I feel the frustration on BOTH sides of these situations ..... Boobala ....:mur:

Sorry for the frustration! I'll try to post some pertinent information. I take multiple pics of repairs performed, probably too many, primarily prior to alterations.



John Deere 68 Riding Mower (8HP B&S) - original engine
A684E
053897M
Briggs and Stratton
191702 5632 01
79082712

Repowering Briggs and Stratton 8HP
193702 0215 01
90100830

The original engine had electric 12v starter, flywheel with ring gear, but no solenoid or alternator. Has plug in for external charger. Two safety switches, trans. neutral and brake, so engine cannot be started in gear or without park brake. Uses 4 post turn key ignition switch and pull switch for kill.
The replacement engine has electric 12v starter, flywheel with ring gear/alternator internal magnets. Adding solenoid, standard 5 post ignition switch to start, kill, utilizing magneto and ground terminials to kill, battery and solenoid terminals to start. Had not planned on adding voltage regulator, since mower likely not run long enough to over charge battery.

Hope this explains things better!

THIS may be of some help.... PATIENCE ..... Always remember : If a MAN made it, .... ANOTHER MAN can fix it !! ...:thumbsup:



View attachment BRIGGS ELECTRICAL TESTS.pdf

View attachment Briggs_alternator_replacement_guide.pdf

Scroll through the above PDF's, .... MAYBE these will help too. .... Boobala ...:smile:

Came across another issue. The Briggs Starter nylon gear keeps stripping after only a couple of rotations, binding to the ring gear. The ring gear with the alternator magnets is made of steel. Seems like the nylon gear gets jambed in the teeth of ring gear. There is no real fine adjustment for mounting, so not sure why this is happening. I looked at Briggs shop manual and it states that for the nylon gear, the ring gear should be aluminum, while steel ring gears should use metal starter gear.
Can anyone confirm this is in fact true?

Duh, if that's what it says in the manual, it's true. Do you think they would tell you something that will cause problems?

donens said:

Came across another issue. The Briggs Starter nylon gear keeps stripping after only a couple of rotations, binding to the ring gear. The ring gear with the alternator magnets is made of steel. Seems like the nylon gear gets jambed in the teeth of ring gear. There is no real fine adjustment for mounting, so not sure why this is happening. I looked at Briggs shop manual and it states that for the nylon gear, the ring gear should be aluminum, while steel ring gears should use metal starter gear.
Can anyone confirm this is in fact true?

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Yes this is true.
Teeth of different materials are also a different shape so they don;t mesh properly and will jamb

donens said:

Came across another issue. The Briggs Starter nylon gear keeps stripping after only a couple of rotations, binding to the ring gear. The ring gear with the alternator magnets is made of steel. Seems like the nylon gear gets jambed in the teeth of ring gear. There is no real fine adjustment for mounting, so not sure why this is happening. I looked at Briggs shop manual and it states that for the nylon gear, the ring gear should be aluminum, while steel ring gears should use metal starter gear.
Can anyone confirm this is in fact true?

Click to expand...

This may be of some help ......... Boobala .... :thumbsup:

View attachment Electric Starter Quick Reference Guide for engines built after 1976 BRIGGS & STRATTON..pdf

Would the steel ring gear cause the nylon gear to jamb? The manual really doesn't state associated problems.

Rivets said:

. Do you think they would tell you something that will cause problems?

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Yes very much so. If you got the right starter and the gears match you may very well need to shim the starter. There are times when you need to shim starters to make them work right. Haven't seen it much on mower engines but I seen it more on car engines. They make a gauge to check the right clearance. I made my own gauge from a peace of wire. You sure wouldn't find this in any manual. I can remember the first time this happen to me many years back.

reynoldston said:

Yes very much so. If you got the right starter and the gears match you may very well need to shim the starter. There are times when you need to shim starters to make them work right. Haven't seen it much on mower engines but I seen it more on car engines. They make a gauge to check the right clearance. I made my own gauge from a peace of wire. You sure wouldn't find this in any manual. I can remember the first time this happen to me many years back.

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Would you have a pic of the gauge you made from a piece of wire?

donens said:

Would the steel ring gear cause the nylon gear to jamb? The manual really doesn't state associated problems.

Click to expand...

If you slip the gear off the starter and hold it lightly beween your finger hen try to run it around the flywheel you will find about 1.5 to 2 revolutions it will lock because the shape of the teeth are different.

The manual does not tell you a lot of things because it is a service reference manual designed for the use of experienced mechanics most of who will have been to the B & S training school so we all know this.
The manual is not "B & S Engines for Dummies" for that level of explanations you will need to find a Clymer or Haynes or Chiltons manual which are aimed at the general public with a bit of mechanical skills.

Please note I am not trying to be rude but a lot of people thik the manual should be of the "remove the 9/16 inch bolt with a 2 foot ring spanner then undo the 1/2 bolt on the left side with a tube spanner" style which it is definitely not.

Mad Mackie said:

Hi Donens,
Do you know about this site?:laughing:
Case Colt Ingersoll Lawn and Garden Tractor Forum

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Thanks for the info! Looked at the brush, but at ~$115 US per brush, just a little expensive at over $1000 to replace all the brushes. Not sure why the brushes should be so expensive. Will have to get creative in replace! Not sure yet what might work, maybe an alternative material or find cheaper shorter brushes in tandem, uncrimping brush clip. Might be labor intensive but it's only time.

Results manual & parts

mechanic mark said:

Results manual & parts

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Already got the manual and IPL from the Briggs site. As per earlier reply, the unknown part, rectifier and/or regulator is not shown in the IPL or manual.