B&S 16 HP hard turning over

[bertsmobile1]

Flywheels & stators are a lot easier to fix than con rods. counter weight & cams.
Briggs code their stators by changing the plug shape & colour as well as the wires so take you old ones to a breaker to get a replacement.
You can reglue the magnets in but it is not worth the time & effort, thousands of good 2nd hand ones out there.

 

[Boudreaux In Eunice La.]

Bert is also a carpenter cause he hit that nail on the head for sure..............

Wowee how the heck did that stator get to be like that.......... ??? I think I have a flywheel in stock for your engine and a stator also.......

Let me know the color of the wires......... Mon Ami ~!~!

 

[scott181]

Bert is also a carpenter cause he hit that nail on the head for sure..............

Wowee how the heck did that stator get to be like that.......... ??? I think I have a flywheel in stock for your engine and a stator also.......

Let me know the color of the wires......... Mon Ami ~!~!

The stator was cracked on both sides opposite each other, but still tight. I'm thinking
after it cracked it vibrated enough to stick out just enough for the magnets to catch
it and rip it forward. Would also explain all the magnets bunched together on one
side. I'm going to see if I can get them used local here, but just in case what kind
of price for the stator shipped to NY. The wires are red and black, and I can get a
picture of the plug if you need that.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Need the plug style & colour.
If you google Briggs alternator replacement you should get a link to the guide as a PDF it is all over the place.
Usually what happens is a bit of gravel gets in then it gets stuck between two magnets and that sets the bomb off.
The other biggie is a DIYer dropping one of the tiny guard screws that fell down some where & vanished

 

[scott181]

I got lucky and found the parts local. plugged right in and bolted right up.
Spins just great now. Having another issue with it now. Doesn't want to
start. Looks like good spark, and with a shot of gas in the carb, it tries
to start. Actually while cranking it sounds like it is running at real low low
speed. Have to have the choke out 3/4's of the way, and full throttle. If
you slow the throttle down it doesn't even try, or pull the choke out fully
it doesn't try. Push the choke back in and no. Normally if there is carb
problems, or that pesky needle in the anti backfire, or whatever that is
called, you can get it to fire up and run for a couple seconds with a shot
of gas or starting fluid shot into the carb. Not so this time. When I say it
sounds like running at real low speed it is firing, with exhaust coming out
and getting hot to the touch. I can't imagine any kind of timing issue as it
isn't backfiring or anything like that. Just acts like it is starved for fuel. To
answer the obvious, which I've made these mistakes before, there is gas
in the tank, and I loosened the clamp for the gas line to the carb long
enough to get fuel to drip, so there is gas to the carb. I don't have alot
invested in this thing, so I may just end up scrapping it and getting a
used one to get me by. Once again though I do want to thank everyone
for the suggestions, comments, and help. It's good to have a thread that
isn't full of arguing, name calling, and just plain bashing. This is what this
forum is all about.

 

[bertsmobile1]

I got lucky and found the parts local. plugged right in and bolted right up.
Spins just great now. Having another issue with it now. Doesn't want to start. Looks like good spark, and with a shot of gas in the carb, it tries
to start. Actually while cranking it sounds like it is running at real low low speed. Have to have the choke out 3/4's of the way, and full throttle. If
you slow the throttle down it doesn't even try, or pull the choke out fully it doesn't try. Push the choke back in and no. Normally if there is carb
problems, or that pesky needle in the anti backfire, or whatever that is called, you can get it to fire up and run for a couple seconds with a shot
of gas or starting fluid shot into the carb. Not so this time. When I say it sounds like running at real low speed it is firing, with exhaust coming out
and getting hot to the touch. I can't imagine any kind of timing issue as it isn't backfiring or anything like that. Just acts like it is starved for fuel. To
answer the obvious, which I've made these mistakes before, there is gas in the tank, and I loosened the clamp for the gas line to the carb long
enough to get fuel to drip, so there is gas to the carb. I don't have a lot invested in this thing, so I may just end up scrapping it and getting a
used one to get me by. Once again though I do want to thank everyone for the suggestions, comments, and help. It's good to have a thread that
isn't full of arguing, name calling, and just plain bashing. This is what this forum is all about.

Being that you have just replaced the flywheel chances are the timing key has sheared.
When fitting a second hand flywheel you need to check the taper very carefully as oft there will be a burr on the top or bottome of the hole which prevents the taper from locking when you tighten down the bolt.
Some times I have to grease the under side of the bolt & washer to sop them turning the flywheel as I tighten up.

 

[Tinkerer200]

"Being that you have just replaced the flywheel chances are the timing key has sheared."

OR the key simply slipped out of place as you sat the flywheel in place. You can check this by removing the screen, adapter, nut and washer and looking down the key way with a flashlight to see it the key ways of both flywheel and crankshaft line up. Torque flywheel to 100 ft. lbs. both surfaces clean and dry.

Walt Conner