B&S 130000 series L-Head intake valve issue

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

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That operation of the intake valve is normal. That is what briggs calls easy spin. It acts as a compression release for easier starting. Eliminates the need for a mechanical decompression device. Leave the springs where they are.
I second the clearance issue. valve lash is critical and so is the procedure. Buy the manual for your engine, they are resonable.
 

slomo

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Kinda doubt it. Chance of me opening one up is pretty slim. Plus I'm "strong like bull". I could pull the stinking rope off the blower housing. Then check myself into the ER. LOL :D

slomo
 

Hammermechanicman

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You will be sorry if you do!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Back in the 90's i built engines for guys at the local go cart race track. Most dads just wanted a reliable motor to get their kid through the season. These were all stock class 5hp briggs. There was also the stock appearing class. Only rule was it had to look stock. Stock looking carb and tank and cylinder head. Everything else was run what ya brung. Engine would get billet rod with a popup piston, milled head and then relieved for valves, very high performance cam, stronger valve springs, drilled out carb, ported block, coil and flywheel from a 3.5hp engine, advanced timing. You would be suprised how much power you could get from a 5hp briggs that looked stock. You had to pull the rope like you meant it it. More that a couple broken fingers from these engines. Powerband was around 4k to 8.5k depending on what cam was used. Guys changed oil every race and ran straight SAE40 or SAE50 wt castor based oils. I do miss that smell. You tuned rhe engine temp with ignition timing. You kept advancing the timing till the engine temp got too high then backed off a degree or two. There were probably 50 to 60 different aftermarket cam profiles to choose from.

Wonder how far you can take this one?
 
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slomo

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Back in the 90's i built engines for guys at the local go cart race track. Most dads just wanted a reliable motor to get their kid through the season. These were all stock class 5hp briggs. There was also the stock appearing class. Only rule was it had to look stock. Stock looking carb and tank and cylinder head. Everything else was run what ya brung. Engine would get billet rod with a popup piston, milled head and then relieved for valves, very high performance cam, stronger valve springs, drilled out carb, ported block, coil and flywheel from a 3.5hp engine, advanced timing. You would be suprised how much power you could get from a 5hp briggs that looked stock. You had to pull the rope like you meant it it. More that a couple broken fingers from these engines. Powerband was around 4k to 8.5k depending on what cam was used. Guys changed oil every race and ran straight SAE40 or SAE50 wt castor based oils. I do miss that smell. You tuned rhe engine temp with ignition timing. You kept advancing the timing till the engine temp got too high then backed off a degree or two. There were probably 50 to 60 different aftermarket cam profiles to choose from.

Wonder how far you can take this one?
WOW, what an ANIMAL. With it's whopping 8.5:1 compression. Look out Big Daddy Don Garlits...... John Force, you'd better pack it in. What is this WW 1?

My old Toyota Corolla 1.8L gas saver at 39mpg has 11:1 compression.

slomo
 
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