Ariens Max Zoom 60 Battery Charging Problems

[lomax0990]

Well the first time I took the rectifier off I did not see any strap or any sort of ground connection. I've been looking ever since your first reply for a broken ground connection and haven't been able to find one.

I looked at the engine service manual and found an ignition diagram that doesn't say anything about a ground from the rectifier. I've attached the picture I was looking at from the Kohler service manual. I"ll go back out later and look for a broken strap.

Not sure where to go from here. The purple wire from the rectifier goes into a connector with many other wires. Not sure I should be ripping and tearing into that. I will probably make it worse. (See next paragraph) Should I try to replace the rectifier? Should I Just make up a ground jumper and attach it from the rectifier mount hole to another ground somewhere?

On another note, I managed to snap the flywheel bolt last week with my impact wrench because it had came loose after I hand tightened it when I reassembled it. I gave up and took it to a dealer and asked him to fix that and look at the charging system. When I picked it back up he said "It seemed to be charging, but it may be the rectifier. That is always the first thing to go bad". I didn't get a good feeling that he knew much about the charging system so I just picked it up and hoping I could get it figured out.

 

[bertsmobile1]

The rectifier , item J in the diagram must have an earth ( ground if you like ).
The white wires are the AC in and the Purple wire is the +12 V out but you need a + & a - or electricity can not flow.
In your case item J the rectifier uses the case as both a heat sink and the ground contact.
For this to happen it must be connected to either the battery - or the engine case ( Which is also connected to the battery - )
When new Kohler use a flat steel strap to bridge from a blower housing bolt to the rectifier mounting bolt and because it s flay steel. it breaks very easily .
I make up 2 short wires with ring terminals on both ends and connect both of the recrtifier mounting bolts to a pair of bolts that go into the metal part of the engine.

 

[lomax0990]

Well I think i'm almost to the point you tell me I'm out of luck and you've gone as far as you can go But I appreciate your help.

Here is what I did. I made up a quick ground wire using a strand of copper from a leftover piece of 12gauge Romex. I put two ring terminals on the ends and for a quick test attached one end to one of the mounting bolts of the rectifier, and then other directly to the negative battery terminal. Then I measured the volts on the two ring terminals at fast idle and it was a solid 11volts.

Based on my understanding of your previous post I think that's a good test. But again I just know enough to be dangerous.

 

[lomax0990]

bertsmobile1,

What do you think about a jumper wire from the rectifier directly to the positive battery terminal? To rule out wiring? If that doesn't work I may try to replace the rectifier.

 

[bertsmobile1]

If you have a ground connection from the body of the rectifier and the purple wire connected to the battery then the purple wire should show battery voltage when the engine is stopped and somewhere between 13 & 14.5 V DC when the engine is running.
THE 2 yellow or white wires supply the AC which will go from + 20 V to - 20 voltswhich is 40 V AC ( can be anywhere from 28 to 40 )
The rectifier uses the bit from 0 V to whatever the furthest is so in this case it would be 0 V to 20 V.
Then there is a resistor or zenner to clip that down to somewhere between the 13 & 14 .5 V required to charge the battery.
Now if you are still getting the 40V AC between the two same colour wires and not getting around 14 V DC between the purple wire & ground then the rectifier is toast.
If you are getting 14V DC between the purple wire and ground but not at the battery then somewhere between the the rectifier & the battery the purple wire has a bad connection.

 

[lomax0990]

bertsmobile1,

Just wanted to thank you for your help and let you know that it was solved. Here is a brief summary:

1.) I determined that the bracket that the rectifier is mounted to is grounded, so no strap was required. I verified this by testing the positive battery terminal and grounding it to that mounting plate.

2.) I replaced the rectifier which still didn't do anything, so I determined it had to be wiring with the charging cable from teh rectifier.

3.) I found a different wiring diagram than the one I attached earlier, which clearly showed a fuse in-line with the purple charging cable. Sure enough I traced it out, found the fuse, and it was busted. Replaced the fuse and started getting around 13.5V at the battery.

So I think I had two problems. The stator that I originally replaced, and the fuse. Thanks again for all your help figuring this out.

 

[PorchSitter]

bertsmobile1,

Just wanted to thank you for your help and let you know that it was solved. Here is a brief summary:

1.) I determined that the bracket that the rectifier is mounted to is grounded, so no strap was required. I verified this by testing the positive battery terminal and grounding it to that mounting plate.

2.) I replaced the rectifier which still didn't do anything, so I determined it had to be wiring with the charging cable from teh rectifier.

3.) I found a different wiring diagram than the one I attached earlier, which clearly showed a fuse in-line with the purple charging cable. Sure enough I traced it out, found the fuse, and it was busted. Replaced the fuse and started getting around 13.5V at the battery.

So I think I had two problems. The stator that I originally replaced, and the fuse. Thanks again for all your help figuring this out.

It's been six years, so it's a long shot that anyone sees this, but I'll ask anyway: Where is that fuse you replaced? I'm having the same problem, and the wiring diagram clearly shows a second fuse, but I cannot find it on the mower. I asked Ariens. Their suggestion was to take it to the dealer.