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On prior posts, I related issues with a solenoid and it's replacement. Has anyone ever had a new solenoid that was bad? I put old one back on , so I can at least jump the terminals to still use it. Now, believe it or not, back in June, I had a drive belt break that caused a small fire. Since I was changing that belt, I decided to order a deck belt too. Just so I had 2 new belts and should not have any problems for awhile. Wrong. While I'm still trying to wrap my head around the solenoid problem, while mowing a week ago, the drive belt lost all it's "teeth ", and stopped moving. Upon inspection, I was able to pull the thin piece of belt, off the mower, .... IN ONE PIECE. I have to remove the deck belt to install a new one. So , How did this come off in a whole circle? I am waiting on a new replacement, because the belt was under warranty yet. I am not a magician. I'm racking my brain about this. This belt could only go on and work if installed correctly. Right? So, before I install new one again, I thought I would at least ask to see if anyone else has had new parts issues. A solenoid and a drive belt that are defective within a 2 month period? I appreciate any insight.
Scag- SMWC-61A / Kohler CV740S Command Pro 27

All i know from experience is that Scag mowers will eat up aftermarket belts. I try several after market pump belts (even Kelvar versions) on the Turf Tigers here and had to go back to Scag OEM belts as they just ate the belts up.

That belt shows signs of rubbing on the inside edge. Make sure you didn't miss a belt guide or something causing the belt to rub on the inside circle... Belt guide on an idler tension pulley is a big possible location. or belt got put on outside of a guide at the engine pulley, or even the pump pulleys

That belt was an OEM belt. I don't buy after market products. I will check what ILENGINE posted the next time I put one on. Thanks for input. Any problems with any other new parts that you all bought?

KyGolfer said:

That belt was an OEM belt. I don't buy after market products. I will check what ILENGINE posted the next time I put one on. Thanks for input. Any problems with any other new parts that you all bought?

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All the Scag belts we sold had a Scag # on them, that doesn't look like a Scag # on that belt

KyGolfer said:

That belt was an OEM belt. I don't buy after market products. I will check what ILENGINE posted the next time I put one on. Thanks for input. Any problems with any other new parts that you all bought?

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No it is not a Scag belt as it is a Stens aftermarket OEM spec belt which may not be OEM spec'd.

mower king said:

All the Scag belts we sold had a Scag # on them, that doesn't look like a Scag # on that belt

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That's because it is a Stens belt. Made in India of all places (not known here for making good belts in the first place; referring to India, not Stens).

Is this a timed belt?

The belt has burned
You can see several spots where it has been eaten away exposing the fibers
This happens when you do not have enough tension on the belt so the pumps put a load on the belt but it slips on the engine pulley burning the belt
So the first question was the belt correctly routed
and the second one is were the tension springs in the correct place.
I have seen all sorts of silly belt runs because the owners failed to take proper notice of the belt run before it was removed.
Same thing with the tension pulley
I have even seen one with the pulley sprung backwards because he owner forgot where the spring went.
If the belt is jambed then the engine pulley rill rip the notches off the belt one at a time.
Once a few come off, the belt will separate .

As previously noted it is a Stens belt, not a genuine Scag belt.
IT IS SUPPOSEDLY AN OEM SPECIFICATION BELT as it is in the 265 series.
I have never had a problem with Stens belts but I have only fitted them to a Liberty

One thing to check on this mower is the two bearings [item 15] in the idler arm as it may not letting the arm to take up the slack in the belt. THis bearings apparent to be a 6202-2RS bearing.

bertsmobile1 said:

The belt has burned
You can see several spots where it has been eaten away exposing the fibers
This happens when you do not have enough tension on the belt so the pumps put a load on the belt but it slips on the engine pulley burning the belt
So the first question was the belt correctly routed
and the second one is were the tension springs in the correct place.
I have seen all sorts of silly belt runs because the owners failed to take proper notice of the belt run before it was removed.
Same thing with the tension pulley
I have even seen one with the pulley sprung backwards because he owner forgot where the spring went.
If the belt is jambed then the engine pulley rill rip the notches off the belt one at a time.
Once a few come off, the belt will separate .

As previously noted it is a Stens belt, not a genuine Scag belt.
IT IS SUPPOSEDLY AN OEM SPECIFICATION BELT as it is in the 265 series.
I have never had a problem with Stens belts but I have only fitted them to a Liberty

Click to expand...

Well I learn something everyday. I thought OEM meant that the parts were equally as good as the scag brand itself. How can some company claim that , when it isn't? Also, when before the belt came apart, there was a lot of vibration coming from the tension pulley and spring. When the belt started to loose it's teeth, and before it separated completely, could that have caused the burning look? Still having a mental problem with the separated belt coming off in one circle. I have to remove the deck belt to install the drive belt.

StarTech said:

One thing to check on this mower is the two bearings [item 15] in the idler arm as it may not letting the arm to take up the slack in the belt. THis bearings apparent to be a 6202-2RS bearing.
View attachment 53861

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Will the bearing make noise if it was bad? Or is it that the pulley will not turn freely?

Thanks for all the advice so far. This thing is driving me nuts. Any other advice on bad parts though? The solenoid I got for a replacement, was a Scag brand solenoid. Not too keen on having to disassemble the solenoid and starter again. Any problems with jumping terminals for now?

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer
IE it came from the same factory as Scag use .
OEM Spec means it should be dimensionally and structurally identical to the original Scag belt but is made at a different factory .
Replaces means that it will work but might not be identical dimensions & construction
Gates do not list your belt which usually means that it was not originally made in the USA or Mexico .
The market is global Scag could be buying their belt from China, India , Pakastan, Malyasa or Indonesia , all countries with a massive rubber industry .

Fish said:

Is this a timed belt?

View attachment 53856

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I can't see how wide that belt is but, I checked out a timed belt for a CC today that we have on the wall, and it looked to be 3/4" to 13/16" wide.

Yeah, I see that it wasn't a timed belt, I am not real familar with that model.

Yes, when I ordered the belt, I thought it was a Scag or equivalent belt. What you posted earlier of the Stens belt is what I received. Since it was still under warranty, it's again what I received yesterday. Before installing, I want to check the pulleys for drag as recommended. I have a small oil leak from one of my hydraulic pumps that I also need to check and see if there is leakage around or possibly on the belt itself. I really appreciate everyone's input, and advice. Still nothing on bad receiving bad replacement parts though. It must be just me then. Thanks again.