Another Slipping Pony

ILENGINE

Lawn Royalty
Joined
May 6, 2010
Threads
43
Messages
10,732
If anybody may wonder the difference between a 754 belt and the 954 belt is the 754 is a loose belt whereas the 954 belt is the same belt in a cardboard sleeve.
 

Boobala

Lawn Pro
Joined
Feb 15, 2015
Threads
200
Messages
7,000
If anybody may wonder the difference between a 754 belt and the 954 belt is the 754 is a loose belt whereas the 954 belt is the same belt in a cardboard sleeve.

ILENGINE, when I researched his belts only 1 754 # came up, so I went to the MTD home site and looked them up in the parts manual there, hence the 954 numbers, which states they are the superceded numbers, they SHOULD be the right belt numbers !!
 

huskerfoos

Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2018
Threads
1
Messages
26
ILENGINE, when I researched his belts only 1 754 # came up, so I went to the MTD home site and looked them up in the parts manual there, hence the 954 numbers, which states they are the superceded numbers, they SHOULD be the right belt numbers !!


Ok, I got the deck off, and the longer of the drive belts on. But, it's pretty loose. And guess which pic I can reference? You guessed it. Any idea where to find that? I believe I have the belt on correct. But there is one belt guide in the middle that I am unsure of.

How do you replace the short belt around the transmission pulley? We can't get it to break loose.

Thanks.
 

NorthBama

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 28, 2014
Threads
9
Messages
936
Ok, I got the deck off, and the longer of the drive belts on. But, it's pretty loose. And guess which pic I can reference? You guessed it. Any idea where to find that? I believe I have the belt on correct. But there is one belt guide in the middle that I am unsure of.

How do you replace the short belt around the transmission pulley? We can't get it to break loose.

Thanks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5_ly-o3fOE
watch the video at 2.50 taking the battery out
 

huskerfoos

Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2018
Threads
1
Messages
26
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5_ly-o3fOE
watch the video at 2.50 taking the battery out


Thank you, I was watching that video earlier. My problem, is, I can't get the pulley loose. I have hit it with some PB blaster, and gonna do it another time or 2 for tomorrow afternoon. But, I bent a screw driver trying to loosen it up.

Not that it probably makes a difference, but in that video, it shows the nut on the back side of that crossmember. Mine is on the front. I can't find a good way to wedge the pulley to keep it stationary to move that nut.
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
65
Messages
24,995
If you can not remove the nut on the top of the shaft of the rear pulley, you can drop the transmission either by undoing the 4 bolts on the axel or undoing the front stabilizer and tilting.
There are subtle differences from one model to another.
 

huskerfoos

Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2018
Threads
1
Messages
26
If you can not remove the nut on the top of the shaft of the rear pulley, you can drop the transmission either by undoing the 4 bolts on the axel or undoing the front stabilizer and tilting.
There are subtle differences from one model to another.

OK, thank you. I have hit that nut again with some PB blaster, and gonna get my son to do it again sometime tomorrow. If I can't break it loose, I will try your suggestions.

Also, I found a video that showed the mower on the side. When you engage the parking brake, it severely loosens that belt. So, that makes me feel better.

thank you for your time also

JJ
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
65
Messages
24,995
Be careful tipping them on the side because the oil ends up everywhere that it should not be.
I remove the battery , put glad wrap over the fuel cap & refit it then stand them on their bum for most under mower repairs.
However as you have to access the rear pulleys from the top that does not work particularly well
Sitting it on some tall jack stands with the wheels removed does make it a lot easier to do the vari- drives.
 

huskerfoos

Member
Joined
Mar 3, 2018
Threads
1
Messages
26
Be careful tipping them on the side because the oil ends up everywhere that it should not be.
I remove the battery , put glad wrap over the fuel cap & refit it then stand them on their bum for most under mower repairs.
However as you have to access the rear pulleys from the top that does not work particularly well
Sitting it on some tall jack stands with the wheels removed does make it a lot easier to do the vari- drives.

I did not turn it up on its side, I did sit it up on the back end initially.

Whoever replaced those belts torqued those nuts/bolts way too much. And they could have just moved that bar slightly by a 1/4" so you could get a ratchet on that trans pulley
 

Boobala

Lawn Pro
Joined
Feb 15, 2015
Threads
200
Messages
7,000
Here's some MTD (Troy-Bilt) manuals that may help in some way ...

http://www.mtdparts.com/equipment/m...Code=Enter+Zip+Code&proximity=10&brandCode=10.

Insread of fighting that trans. pulley, you might consider removing 2 bolts from the trans to frame mount and jostle the trans around to change that belt, then fight the trans bolts back into place being EXTREMELY care not to mis-alingn the bolts and stripping the threads going back together. just a thought.....Have you tried someone pushing in on the clutch pedal to see if that will give you enough slack to get the belt off..??

Found a shop manual ... https://data2.manualslib.com/pdf3/70/6996/699532-mtd/700_series.pdf?db35fc0c8d696c9236af1ffffd0025e5

see pages 57 and up for belt replacement dis-regard above procedure ...... sorry bout that !
 
Last edited:
Top