Am I asking too much from a rear engine rider?

KrazzyB

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I own an Ariens 1028 RER . I have a pretty small lawn (.28 acre) which slopes gently and steadily away. I have two completely different grasses , but both types are thick and hearty even in dryer times of the year.

I am finding myself mowing this lawn almost twice every time I try to mow. There's leave behinds, stepping and just flat out missed rows . Today I walked off two twelve foot and one 20 foot length that I had just gone over but where the lawn was essentially uncut. It was a tiny bit damp from the cooler evening temps, but nowhere near being too wet to cut. If I run over it again, it cuts it.

It has recently sharpened blades on it, new belts, and I've recently revisited and adjusted tensioners and the deck itself. I'm running out of things to try to adjust to improve the output of what is seemingly a perfectly working mower.

This replaced a low-end toro recycler push mower that I was using up until two years ago. I have some tight spaces in between fences and garden beds, which is the main reason I bought the 28-inch wide rider - convenience. But this poor mowing has me thinking about making another change.

I'm at the point where I'm feeling the need to ask; are these small rear engine riders really for someone else? Am I just asking too much from this? Are these for tiny, flat yards with no bumps and few sharp turns?

Frustrated.

Edit:
Next door neighbor 1: has 34-inch Deere RER, outperforms mine but leaves lots of stepping on turns. I'm convinced if he slowed down he'd be fine. I, however, am mowing in speeds 1 and 2. He hates going slower than 4.

Neighbor 2: 'varna zero turn. Not a blade of grass missed.

Neighbor 3: 42" craftsman LT1000 - perfect mow on an almost car on copy lawn.

In the past I've never had an issue with: 42-inch or 36-inch mowers at my parents place. Also a flawless cut from a 48" deck over all sorts of terrain at my in-laws place, using an ancient beater of a tractor.

These are the things which make me frustrated at my current situation.
 

cpurvis

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Is the deck rigged correctly? Level left to right, and slightly lower in the front than the rear? Tire pressures set to spec? (check this first)
 

Rivets

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Besides checking the deck for levelness as stated, is your engine running at full speed? 3200-3400 RPM's. Second, are you sure that the brakes on the spindle are releasing, allowing the blades to turn as fast as possible? Finally, I don't want to be a smart &$:mad:, but is the blade installed correctly? Every season I will have a least one unit with the blades installed upside down.
 

bertsmobile1

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Besides checking the deck for levelness as stated, is your engine running at full speed? 3200-3400 RPM's. Second, are you sure that the brakes on the spindle are releasing, allowing the blades to turn as fast as possible? Finally, I don't want to be a smart &$:mad:, but is the blade installed correctly? Every season I will have a least one unit with the blades installed upside down.

Gees & I thought that only ever happened to me.

So yes you need the right blades, cutting at the right angles, in good condition , at the right speed.
Very common to have a customer complain of a bad cut only to find no flute ( the upturned bit ) left on their blades and then it is mission impossible to convince them they need replacing because "there is plenty of cutting edge left".

You might need to fit some higher lift blades to work with your particular grass.
The right lift can make an immense difference.
 

KrazzyB

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Is the deck rigged correctly? Level left to right, and slightly lower in the front than the rear? Tire pressures set to spec? (check this first)

I have checked the deck. I am level side to side, and I adjusted my pan so that it is just shy of the maximum 1/4" spec in difference between the front and the back.

Tires are supposed to be at 14 psi all around. 3 of four are rock solid and every time I check them they are on target. My left front has a slow leak in it which requires me to fill it from about 9 up to 14 every time I want to mow.
 

KrazzyB

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Besides checking the deck for levelness as stated, is your engine running at full speed? 3200-3400 RPM's. Second, are you sure that the brakes on the spindle are releasing, allowing the blades to turn as fast as possible? Finally, I don't want to be a smart &$:mad:, but is the blade installed correctly? Every season I will have a least one unit with the blades installed upside down.

How could I verify that this little 10hp b&S engine is running at desired RPM? It sure sounds steady and fast, but I can't hear it as clearly when I'm moving and mowing. I don't believe that I'm hearing any rpm drops that coincide with seeing poor grass cutting.

The 28" mower that I own does not have a brake or an idler with a brake on the spindle. The only things I can check there are the belt and the tension on it, plus the belt finger to make sure it is in the right place, and both of those things have been checked out.

I definitely have the blade installed properly. It is a blade specifically for the installed mulching kit, too. There is no spec for the lifts in terms of size. Service manual just talkes replacement after lifts 'become eroded'. I'll check them out again, but I don't recall noticing the lifts not being still like new.

I do have a brand new blade for it to compare to or to replace it with and just see if there is a difference.
 

cashman

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The Ariens RER works best with the factory original blade belt. I have seen some aftermarket replacement belts used on the Ariens RER that weren't wide enough in the pulleys and caused the blade belt to slip. The blade belt should fully engage about 1/2 to 3/4 travel on the blade engagement lever. The adjustment is a bolt near the front axel. By tightening the bolt, it pulls the deck forward and tightens the belt. Also make sure that the cutting edge of the blade is facing the grass discharge on the deck. I used to sell Ariens and always found them to cut about as good as any mower on the market and if it's not cutting right, I'm thinking there is something going on with the pulleys or the belt or blade not being right?
 

Carscw

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How often do you cut?
How tall is the grass?
Are you cutting more then 2 inches off the top?

Level the deck from the blades not the edge of the deck.
Try healing the deck. setting the back of the deck a 1/4 inch lower then the front. I have found that on MOST mowers healing the deck gives a much better cut.

Does it leave uncut grass when cutting both types of grass?
 

KrazzyB

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The Ariens RER works best with the factory original blade belt. I have seen some aftermarket replacement belts used on the Ariens RER that weren't wide enough in the pulleys and caused the blade belt to slip. The blade belt should fully engage about 1/2 to 3/4 travel on the blade engagement lever. The adjustment is a bolt near the front axel. By tightening the bolt, it pulls the deck forward and tightens the belt. Also make sure that the cutting edge of the blade is facing the grass discharge on the deck. I used to sell Ariens and always found them to cut about as good as any mower on the market and if it's not cutting right, I'm thinking there is something going on with the pulleys or the belt or blade not being right?

The problem was happening for a while, when I finally decided to go all-in and just change the belt and adjust the deck at the same time. I already had to replace my drive disc, so I was underneath - why not knock out several issues at the same time. I bought a stens true blue replacement belt. It came in noticeably thicker, but the right length. I did adjust the tensioner right to the service manual spec (I forget to which lever notch specifically at this point.)

Problem persists.

Pulleys were moving nicely, but I guess I can't specifically rule out something binding up intermittently. Didn't look much at the spindle, other than noticing it was a lot cleaner than I expected it to be.
 

KrazzyB

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How often do you cut?
How tall is the grass?
Are you cutting more then 2 inches off the top?

Level the deck from the blades not the edge of the deck.
Try healing the deck. setting the back of the deck a 1/4 inch lower then the front. I have found that on MOST mowers healing the deck gives a much better cut.

Does it leave uncut grass when cutting both types of grass?

I cut more than once a week, as an average. Typically this will mean 3.5" grass being cut down to 2.5" height unless I was out of town for a period of time. But I'm expecting a worse cut if it's wet or extra tall. My coming here is a product of getting the crappy cuts when I'm well within a normal/reasonable scenario. Maybe putting it another way, I rarely if ever have any visible clippings laying on the lawn when I'm done. I just won't cut that much off because of it is tall I'll raise the cutting height to compensate.

my blade is level to the deck pan bottom lip on each side, and my deck pan lip is level to the flat garage floor (left/right). So for me that's good to call a level blade.
 
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