Aftermarket spindle kit

[Bertrrr]

Did you manage to get any of the pullies off, or are they all stubborn ?
Could possibly be left handed thread although I've not seen any so far on anything I worked on. If all else fails you may have to cut the nut off.

 

[BohoRex]

I'll try that. See my other reply I just made for some entertainment value. lol

Did you manage to get any of the pullies off, or are they all stubborn ?
Could possibly be left handed thread although I've not seen any so far on anything I worked on. If all else fails you may have to cut the nut off.

Not yet. I put the blade back on - tightened down as tight as my body weight could put into it.... put more heat to the top nut, more pb blaster... blocked the blade from underneath - and put my weight with a cheater bar on the top nut - and all it did was loosen the blade nut underneath.

I was looking at it and muttering all sorts of words under my breath - as I stared at it... thinking - "I'm gonna have to cut or split that nut off".... then came in to read that from you as well. lol.

I'll give it as rest for a bit - and come back to it later tonight. Thank y'all for the pointers.

 

[BohoRex]

As I look up the part number for that nut ( 1922014 ESNA Light, 5/8-18 ) - I realize I probably didn't do myself any favors by heating it up with the torch since there's apparently a nylon insert in that nut.. I'm going to try the other spindle first - since I haven't heated that nut yet - and see if it'll come off after putting that blade back on.

If not - I'll cut them off and deal with the repercussions of anything broken in process.

 

[bertsmobile1]

frozen nuts respond to impact much better than slow torque
so even with a 20' cheater bar they will not shift but come of easily when using a rattle gun.

 

[BohoRex]

frozen nuts respond to impact much better than slow torque
so even with a 20' cheater bar they will not shift but come of easily when using a rattle gun.

My air impact doesn't have the airflow to do the job properly. I tried that first. ( an excuse to buy more tools for Black Friday sales! A battery or corded impact may be in my future ) Amazon is delivering a nut-splitter later today. My angle-grinder/cutoff wheel combo wasn't precision enough.

 

[StarTech]

And to read the following article written by a fellow of his own experiences with poor air performance.

Air Tool Performance Problems

 

[BohoRex]

Thanks for the article! I checked my fittings and they're all "M". I did turn up the psi on the output regulator, though - and that helped immensely. (It had been on 90psi. I turned it up to 110psi - and it seems to have much better flow and more ugga-duggas)

I've got one removed. I did have to use the nut splitter (I'd already messed up the pulley anyway) - then the impact was able to break it loose.

Trying to take off the 2nd one without having to cut it off with the splitter - as the pulley has to be destroyed (bent down) to get enough bite on the nut to break it. The shaft spins just like the first one.

And there was NOT a nylon insert in the nut of the 1st one. Maybe that's for replacement ones.

I'll muck with the 2nd one later when I'm home from work.

 

[BohoRex]

Had to split that 2nd nut also. I think rust and the very effective lock washer under the nut were the culprits.

Parts (new pulleys) and fresh bearings are on the way.

The good news is that I'm not spending $3k-$4k on a new mower.

 

[tgzzzz]

Unless the spindle housing is damaged , the bearings are very cheap and easy to change. Pull it apart and look at the number on the bearing - I usually pull the inner seal on the bearings and drill the housing to enable greasing the assembly. I think I got 3 pairs on amazon for under 20$

You don't feel the need to upgrade the bearings to Timken, SKF or similar?
ETA: On reassembly on a similar situation, I used NeverSeize. Holy cow does that work. A little dab will do you.

 

[rutbuster1]

Unless the spindle housing is damaged , the bearings are very cheap and easy to change. Pull it apart and look at the number on the bearing - I usually pull the inner seal on the bearings and drill the housing to enable greasing the assembly. I think I got 3 pairs on amazon for under 20$

If I just replace the bearings and it's got the rubber shield, I take off the shield and pack the bearing full and replace the shield. The bearings have the very minimum of grease in them when bought new. I've done this on numerous mowers and most outlive the spindle itself. If it's a metal shielded bearing you can do the same but you can either pack it with the shield on or off.