Affordable carburetors for 2004 Walker MTGHS

topcutmowing1 said:
I believe the metal shroud had to be removed when my guy replaced the coil packs and the the cooling fins would have been cleaned up then.
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Pictures never lie. Just saying your words don't sound like you are confident they got cleaned. If you neglect the cooling fins, look for engine damage. This is not something to put off or glaze over.
topcutmowing1 said:
I've been told removing the air intake hose and spraying carb cleaner in while the engine is running will help clean up the carb.
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I'll go with 2% effectiveness here. Not a total waste of time and product but near it. Better than nothing.
topcutmowing1 said:
How long should I spray? Should I spray the maximum that will come out of the can?
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Sure, let her eat.
topcutmowing1 said:
Should the engine be left at an idle? One other thing is the engine struggles to stay running at an idle - it runs for a while but will die eventually.
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Every engine manufacturer states NOT to idle down any air cooled engine like THIS one. Why because cooling air is greatly reduced while idling. Engine is not turning at proper speed. Not to mention oil lubrication that is CRITICAL to these again air cooled engines. Briggs and the others state, for MAX durability/longevity, run at full revs like 3500 or 3600rpm at ALL TIMES. Summation these are not water cooled full pressure lubed car engines that are DESIGNED to idle. Some mower engines are water cooled and have full pressure lube. Do what YOUR engine manual states.
 
topcutmowing1 said:
I have an oil change on my list and it's got 150 hours on it, should have done it at 100 hours.
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How many months does it take to get 100 hours on your mower?

At minimum, change the oil yearly. If you have a lot of exposed dirt slash no grass under trees and the like, change more often. Why not do it twice a year? Only talking about a quart and a half of oil per. Not like you are draining a container ship every 6 months.
 
slomo said:
How many months does it take to get 100 hours on your mower?

At minimum, change the oil yearly. If you have a lot of exposed dirt slash no grass under trees and the like, change more often. Why not do it twice a year? Only talking about a quart and a half of oil per. Not like you are draining a container ship every 6 months.
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Good point. In the past, I mowed some buffalo that would be dry early season for sure but it was irrigated too. About 75 hours per year in the past. Only mowing one small yard with it now and it's irrigate fescue, dust will be minimal. The air pre-cleaner beside my armrest does not have any air fins in them anymore, they were broken off- my understanding is the fins help minimize debris coming in.
 
Auto Doc's said:
You might consider and oil and filter change using full synthetic or synthetic blend oil. !0W-30 is what is commonly used.

You mention the O-rings on the jets not looking too good. They need to be replaced.

If a cylinder were cutting off due to a bad coil, you would not have enough power to mow, maybe just enough to drive the rider some.

Stay with the original carburetor as long as you can. Aftermarket carburetors are a crapshoot, and it may take a couple of tries to get one that works properly. Just because the advertising says they will fit, does not mean they will work.

If you are not familiar with carburetor cleaning and overhauling, there are many good videos online. Teryll Fixes all, James Condon is really good and Donyboy73
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Any recommendation on where to buy the kit of o-rings, gaskets etc. to re-build the carb?
 
Auto Doc's said:
You might consider and oil and filter change using full synthetic or synthetic blend oil. !0W-30 is what is commonly used.

You mention the O-rings on the jets not looking too good. They need to be replaced.

If a cylinder were cutting off due to a bad coil, you would not have enough power to mow, maybe just enough to drive the rider some.

Stay with the original carburetor as long as you can. Aftermarket carburetors are a crapshoot, and it may take a couple of tries to get one that works properly. Just because the advertising says they will fit, does not mean they will work.

If you are not familiar with carburetor cleaning and overhauling, there are many good videos online. Teryll Fixes all, James Condon is really good and Donyboy73
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I have an arrow pointing to the brass piece the inlet needle valve inserts in. I've had people tell me there should be an o-ring in this brass piece but the engine manuel does not show one. It appears to me the brass piece is the perfect size for the needle valve to seat perfectly without an o-ring. I do not see how an o-ring would fit here and do not see one existing, unless it is seated inside the hole somehow.
 
That carb uses a rubber tip needle valve. Now the seat can be damage and how bad it may require the whole carb to be replaced..Also rubber on the needle valve can get damaged.

I wish people that have no knowledge of you are working on would just shut up. That's like people without kids telling someone else how to raise them.
 
I did the blow test with the old needle valve and it sealed completely from what I could tell. The brass seat appears in good condition, I am going to replace the needle valve though. I appreciate the feedback.
 
Depending on what you are calling a blow it may not be valid. System needs to be pressurize to 5-7 PSI and see if it leaks down during 30 minute test. So just blowing on it with your mouth isn't going cut it.
 
StarTech said:
Depending on what you are calling a blow it may not be valid. System needs to be pressurize to 5-7 PSI and see if it leaks down during 30 minute test. So just blowing on it with your mouth isn't going cut it.
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when you are putting new o-rings on, do you use any lubrication?
 
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