Affordable carburetors for 2004 Walker MTGHS

[topcutmowing1]

I've been fighting an issue for awhile where my 20HP Kohler doesn't want to maintain full throttle while mowing, it's close but not quite there. Also, the engine will surge and hunt intermittently. I have done the following to the mower trying to fix it but it's not quite there. I'm wondering if I need to replace the carburetor and I see that name brand carbs are expensive. Is there a reliable affordable carb anyone would recommend or possibly I'm going in the wrong direction completely.

-Coil packs and spark plugs replaced
-Fuel tank cleaned
-Fuel lines and pump replaced
-Carburetor has been cleaned. The well that inserts to the main jet was about 20% clogged but that is clean now. The o-rings seemed to be in decent condition
-Air filter is clean
-Fresh high octane gas treated with 1 ounce seafoam per gallon is in the tank

It seems that everything I've done has improved the performance but it still occasionally does not want to rap out at 100%

 

[sgkent]

so which cylinder is not performing well? Make model serial number. How many hours on the engine. Is the RPM down or just the speed?

 

[topcutmowing1]

so which cylinder is not performing well? Make model serial number. How many hours on the engine. Is the RPM down or just the speed?

I don’t know how to tell which cylinder isn’t performing well. 1,100 hours. I believe it’s the RPM that’s decreased.

 

[Auto Doc's]

You might consider and oil and filter change using full synthetic or synthetic blend oil. !0W-30 is what is commonly used.

You mention the O-rings on the jets not looking too good. They need to be replaced.

If a cylinder were cutting off due to a bad coil, you would not have enough power to mow, maybe just enough to drive the rider some.

Stay with the original carburetor as long as you can. Aftermarket carburetors are a crapshoot, and it may take a couple of tries to get one that works properly. Just because the advertising says they will fit, does not mean they will work.

If you are not familiar with carburetor cleaning and overhauling, there are many good videos online. Teryll Fixes all, James Condon is really good and Donyboy73

 

[topcutmowing1]

You might consider and oil and filter change using full synthetic or synthetic blend oil. !0W-30 is what is commonly used.

You mention the O-rings on the jets not looking too good. They need to be replaced.

If a cylinder were cutting off due to a bad coil, you would not have enough power to mow, maybe just enough to drive the rider some.

Stay with the original carburetor as long as you can. Aftermarket carburetors are a crapshoot, and it may take a couple of tries to get one that works properly. Just because the advertising says they will fit, does not mean they will work.

If you are not familiar with carburetor cleaning and overhauling, there are many good videos online. Teryll Fixes all, James Condon is really good and Donyboy73

Excellent. I have an oil change on my list and it's got 150 hours on it, should have done it at 100 hours.

Great information that I will put in action. Appreciate it sir!

 

[slomo]

Is there a reliable affordable carb anyone would recommend

Match one off of ebay. Don't buy the cheapest listing you can find. I've had better luck buying a listing that is say 10 bucks over the cheapest listing.

Must admit, lately, I've had good luck with Chinese carbs. Was a big fan of OEM carbs. These cheapos just work for ME.

I do go over any new to me carb. Make sure the jets/emulsion tubes are open, needle/seat seals proper and float level is good. Shoot carb cleaner in every hole. Blow out with shop air and SAFETY GLASSES.

 

[sgkent]

make sure that the RPM is down and not just the speed at which things are happening. Slipping belts and transmissions will slow things down even though an engine is performing flawlessly.

 

[topcutmowing1]

Match one off of ebay. Don't buy the cheapest listing you can find. I've had better luck buying a listing that is say 10 bucks over the cheapest listing.

Must admit, lately, I've had good luck with Chinese carbs. Was a big fan of OEM carbs. These cheapos just work for ME.

I do go over any new to me carb. Make sure the jets/emulsion tubes are open, needle/seat seals proper and float level is good. Shoot carb cleaner in every hole. Blow out with shop air and SAFETY GLASSES.

Thanks for the advice. I believe the metal shroud had to be removed when my guy replaced the coil packs and the the cooling fins would have been cleaned up then.

 

[topcutmowing1]

make sure that the RPM is down and not just the speed at which things are happening. Slipping belts and transmissions will slow things down even though an engine is performing flawlessly.

To me it sounds like the RPM's are decreasing. I do have a belt or two that could be replaced and have some small holes in them, but I'm not hearing any squeaking like the belts are slipping.

 

[topcutmowing1]

Thanks for the advice. I believe the metal shroud had to be removed when my guy replaced the coil packs and the the cooling fins would have been cleaned up then.

I've been told removing the air intake hose and spraying carb cleaner in while the engine is running will help clean up the carb. How long should I spray? Should I spray the maximum that will come out of the can? Should the engine be left at an idle? One other thing is the engine struggles to stay running at an idle - it runs for a while but will die eventually.