Adjust Valves on 19.5 B&S Single Model# 31P6770140B1

[DaveTN]

Does this valve adjustment procedure require the piston to go past TDC? Model# 31P6770140B1

Anyone know the correct Intake and Exhaust gap?

Does Intake= .002 - .004 and Exhaust= .005 - 008 sound about right?

Thanks!

 

[EngineMan]

.003"-.005" IN .005"-.007" EX

Lawn Mower Repair Valve Adjustment - YouTube

 

[DaveTN]

Finally got the oil pan lined up with the governor, camshaft, oil pump shaft after several tries only to find it was in a bind due to the pressure on the crankshaft pushing it into the bind. Had to remove the oil pump cover to visually align the drive shaft slots from the cam to the oil pump. Once I blocked up the engine and took the pressure off the crankshaft, it lined up and slid together and I bolted it up. Just have the valves to set, put on an OHV gasket, or form-a-gasket silicone that was on it. Looked like the gray-colored silicone someone at the factory had ran a bead and slapped on the cover! I've got the Aviation Permatex brown with an application brush on the lid. I've had good success with it on gaskets but haven't used it as a fom-a-gasket. What do you all use?

 

[EngineMan]

I would use a new gasket, if I hadn't got one and it was for myself then a little silicone. (with old gasket)

 

[DaveTN]

Finally got the valves set properly, everything together and went to install the engine on the John Deere mower. Upper drive pulley was rubbing and scraping against the 3 belt guards. No matter how I tried to wiggle the motor to get it free, it still rubbed. Finally had to take Vice Grip pliers and bend the belt guards down enough to have clearance for the pulley. I don't understand why it fit originally and with nothing done to the frame, yet the engine and pulley wouldn't line up properly without bending the metal tabs near the upper drive pulley? This engine has been nothing but an aggravation from the start to finish! Would someone explain WHY that engine has plastic inserts with SQUARE HOLES in them where the push rods come out of the block and go to the rocker arm? I would think that a ROUND push rod would go through a ROUND HOLE to help support it. I don't see what purpose these black plastic inserts with SQUARE HOLES in it serve? If tension comes off that rocker arm on the push rod side, the push rods will flop about like granny's old false teeth.

 

[motoman]

Finally got the oil pan lined up with the governor, camshaft, oil pump shaft after several tries only to find it was in a bind due to the pressure on the crankshaft pushing it into the bind. Had to remove the oil pump cover to visually align the drive shaft slots from the cam to the oil pump. Once I blocked up the engine and took the pressure off the crankshaft, it lined up and slid together and I bolted it up. Just have the valves to set, put on an OHV gasket, or form-a-gasket silicone that was on it. Looked like the gray-colored silicone someone at the factory had ran a bead and slapped on the cover! I've got the Aviation Permatex brown with an application brush on the lid. I've had good success with it on gaskets but haven't used it as a fom-a-gasket. What do you all use?

It may enrage the purists , but on my Intek 24 I put some red form- a- gasket on top of the regular gasket years ago (when it came apart) and since then I am able to make clean (no tear) breaks for valve adjustments. This saves new gasket purchases over and over. I find that the Intek only puts out a mist for valve guide lube. and only about a teaspoon is puddled up at the bottom of the cover when removed. I do not torque the valve covers a lot. I believe the cover is actually sealing on a film of oil over the gasket which eases removal, but does not leak.