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hi, I have a "95 28 in. rer. Ihad to replace the brake /clutch cables because they broke. I can't get it to shift. It will shift in the upright positiion, but when i put it down on the ground, it won't shift. I can't figure out why. Any ideas? Other than burning some oil, this has been a great mower for 18 years. I don't know if it's worn out or not. I thought I'd join up and ask. thanks in advance.
Joe

Try not pushing the Pedal all the way down just push it about 3/4 the way

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Hi, thanks for responding. I tried your suggestion tonight and no go. I'll keep working on it this weekend.
Joe

Re: 95 snapper rer won't shift

I figured out why my snapper won't shift. the axle bearing or whatever the axle goes through is so worn out that when I put in on the ground the axle rises up enough to stop the rubber wheel mechanism form moving onto the drive plate ( not sure of the terminology) . I'm going to try and rebuild the axle/wheel assembly. It looks like a straight forward job, if I can get that triangle shaped piece off. Do I just have to drive off? I tried and couldn't get it to move at all. Any input from anyone will be appreciated. This may lead to a total overhaul, would be fun.

In 1764 Ben Franklin said, " Snapper RERs never wear out."

Sometimes their design ignorance causes them to simply fall apart and it costs about 200 bucks to get it repaired.

Parts do wear out but routine maintenance is required on anything mechanical; trimmers, edgers,saws,refrigerators, washing machines, etc. At those times you have to spend some bucks. A little preventive maintenance can go a long way towards reducing those expensives and I have always surprised myself after attemping to do most repairs myself. Right now the only problem I am having with my 33" RER is finding the proper length of belt to fit it. I have purchased two belts, with the correct part no. and both are too short and keep the blade engaged, even without touching the tensioner lever. My neighbors are cutting their lawns already and mine is beginning to look a little shabby.

valveguy said:

Parts do wear out but routine maintenance is required on anything mechanical; trimmers, edgers,saws,refrigerators, washing machines, etc. At those times you have to spend some bucks. A little preventive maintenance can go a long way towards reducing those expensives and I have always surprised myself after attemping to do most repairs myself. Right now the only problem I am having with my 33" RER is finding the proper length of belt to fit it. I have purchased two belts, with the correct part no. and both are too short and keep the blade engaged, even without touching the tensioner lever. My neighbors are cutting their lawns already and mine is beginning to look a little shabby.

Click to expand...

Are you following the manual instructions for belt replacement?

Belt length should be 71 1/4 inch.

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I bought an Oregon 72" belt and it is too short. Someone else on this forum said it takes a 74" belt and I am having difficulty finding that length. I hate to give in to buying from the local dealer because they are very proud of their merchandise. With the 72" belt the blade is engaged all the time. I ran it for about 20 minutes in hopes of it stretching but that didn't happen.

Did you shorting the mower? Take a couple spacers out of the frame

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I had thought about it but am reluctant because I haven't ever done that before. Is there a rule to follow about how much each spacer will equal in belt length? Is it easily done?

Thanks to Carscw for his suggestion that I shorten my Snapper RER. 2 or 3 weeks after he reminded me of that feature I stood the mower on its tail and took a good look at the spacers and decided it was something I could do. I removed one spacer and the front half of the mower dropped down just by the thickness of the spacer. Then I tightened it all back up and sat it back down on all 4 tires and cranked it up and there was enough slack in the belt for the thing to operate as it was supposed to. So now I know that the 72" Oregon belt (P/N 75-073) will do the job. Eventually the belt will probably stretch enough to cause too much slack, to a point to which the blade may not engage at all and when that happens I will raise it up again and reverse the procedure. I will reinstall enough spacers to correct the slack in the belt and the old Snapper will once again work properly.

These Snapper RER mowers are amazing in how simple their basic design is. Whoever originally designed it created a lawnmower which, if owned by someone has the ability to properly maintain it, can be used for decades. I retired a 1984 28" RER 2 years ago and replaced it with a 1992 33" RER after a total refurbishing for a total investment of around $300.00. I had bought it with a blown engine for only $100.00 including new bags and then spent about $200.00 to re-ring my 12.5 hp Briggs and then purchase the parts needed to do the complete refurbishing. I could've taken it to a shop and spent $500.00 to $700.00 to get the same thing done.

Thanks again Carscw for waking me up and thanks to LawnMowerForum.com for providing us the space to do what we love to do.

valveguy

See easy fix. Glad you got it going

(( racing is the only sport that you need two balls ))