If it cranks when jumped, what made you think it was the solenoid? It has to work to actuate the Bendix.
54 inch riding mower just clicks, won't start
- Thread starter JP98
- Start date
If this machine has any time at all on it, and a lot of starts, the starter commutator get glazed and the brushes don't make adequate contact. All you'll get is a sight click from the relay or the stronger one from solenoid. Easy fix. Remove and disassemble starter. 600 grit paper to clean the commutator. And these starters are not hermetically sealed. All sorts of dust, dirt and debris get into the inner case after years of use. Just because it cranked once doesn't mean it will do it again, consistently.
Take the plugs out see it the machine turns over, if it does it has become Hydro locked (maybe a better word) I did get a more Amp Hour battery and pulling back the throttle when starting , as it turns over then increase throttle. Helped with my issue. My problem is the machine wants to run backwards after turning the off key, cold days works perfect. Yes there is no dirt around the fins.
Dwayne Oxford
Member
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2014
- Threads
- 5
- Messages
- 26
Feel each relay as you try starting. When you find the clicker, jump it and try again. Bear in mind that all "new" means is it MIGHT work.
Sounds like the battery may be ok on voltage, but, not delivering the required amperage. The internal resistance may be high and your charger will not reveal the problem.
Try another battery, do you have a known good spare?
How old is the battery? Usually they have a sticker on them.
Quite simply, with the information provided in your post, the battery has failed or the current is not being delivered to the solenoid.
Check to ensure the black wire is clean and tight where it connects to the frame or engine. In addition, clean and tighten both cables where they attach to the posts.
Good luck friend
Try another battery, do you have a known good spare?
How old is the battery? Usually they have a sticker on them.
Quite simply, with the information provided in your post, the battery has failed or the current is not being delivered to the solenoid.
Check to ensure the black wire is clean and tight where it connects to the frame or engine. In addition, clean and tighten both cables where they attach to the posts.
Good luck friend
Last edited:
poncho144
Member
- Joined
- Jun 15, 2017
- Threads
- 6
- Messages
- 26
I had a similar prob with my Husqvarna yard tractor. Found that the Lighting circuit had an open wire of the 3 for Headlights. Seams to be a interlock to prevent starting the mower if part of the electrics are compromised. Also, makes trouble shoot'n more difficult for us DIY's.
TiIngot
Member
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2022
- Threads
- 11
- Messages
- 39
Just had same problem. Did the same thing, bought a solenoid that fixed nothing. Also jumped from battery to starter and got spark as you did.
Battery terminals were clean BUT the positive cable attached to battery was rusted. Thoroughly cleaned cable end and bingo, it starts.
Like you I am a lay person who works on my mower. Just went thru a very similar problem with my Cub Cadet GT1554. I replaced the starter, starter solenoid, pulled and cleaned the fuel solenoid, checked wires, had O'Reilly's check the battery etc. All I was getting was a click by the fuel solenoid when I tried to start the engine. A friend came over to look at the mower and did a bunch of diagnostic testing: Battery to solenoid, battery to starter, cked the fuse, all good. Pulled the ignition switch, which has a dead post. I would go back to your ignition switch and test the posts using a light tester. You could also try jumping from the starter to see if the engine will kick over.
As many above have said, clean cable ends. My theory of small engine work, and I admit, I'm an amateur is to start with the easy stuff first. You could replace all the parts and have the same problem if the battery cables are corroded. Clean battery terminals and cable ends with the battery tool - stiff bristles on the brush. Re-install with a little dielectric grease. If you still have the issue, start cleaning connection 'down stream' in the starting circuit. Switches are always a source of wear. A good multi-meter can test most wires and switches without removing them. If you have current coming out of the switch, keep working down stream.
It's fine to jump across the solenoid - but no workee solenoid can be a bad contact upstream. So for example, if jumping a solenoid doesn't work, be sure you have juice TO the solenoid. Who knows, it may be some expensive electrical part, but it's usually something simple that occurs simply from use - dirt, corrosion, rust, etc.
It's fine to jump across the solenoid - but no workee solenoid can be a bad contact upstream. So for example, if jumping a solenoid doesn't work, be sure you have juice TO the solenoid. Who knows, it may be some expensive electrical part, but it's usually something simple that occurs simply from use - dirt, corrosion, rust, etc.