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my 5 HP CRAFTSMAN edger engine has a crack in the muffler and is crazily loud, this has been a problem ever since I got the engine 1 year ago. Is there a way to seal the crack without buying a new muffler? would super glue work or gasket sealer? engine serial code: 100202 0015-01 6811127 craftsman edger model number: 536-83610 Thanks for any help provided.

Incorrect model number for edger.

As super glue work or gasket sealer a steak would work just well and at least you have dinner cooked.

buy a new muffler, it is rotted out too. Like $21 max

oof, ok

Now, Now you know a 1968 muffler will be just like a brand new one.

$19 https://www.partstree.com/parts/briggs-stratton-393010/
$34 https://www.partstree.com/parts/briggs-stratton-391313/

thanks scrubcadet10, but those arent the right muffler for it, but I found a replacement

I’ll bet a repair shop in your area has a screw in muffler you could get for about $5 used $10 new. I know I’ve got at least two laying around somewhere.

ok

lanerdude9 said:

thanks scrubcadet10, but those arent the right muffler for it, but I found a replacement

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Are you sure of the engine Model and Type numbers?

yeah, those are the exact ones, why?

lanerdude9 said:

yeah, those are the exact ones, why?

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I guess Briggs IPL's are wrong since you said those aren't the right mufflers?

i found the manual: https://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=msotJP-K_ny7tH217FzoPu

Scrubcadet10 said:

I guess Briggs IPL's are wrong since you said those aren't the right mufflers?

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possibly...

yeah, so this afternoon I cleaned the air filter, re-gapped the sparkplug which is SUPPOSED TO BE 0.030, BUT WAS AT 0.060, and shot a bit of seafoam deep creep into the needle hole, and this thing... ok, I start it right up and immediately notice the difference of tension in the throttle, and at full throttle, this beast sounds insane loud, is a champion at edging, and could be a 40MPH GO-KART engine. Wow, the things seafoam can do... by the way, the real "champion" is the champion sparkplug hahaha.

I imagine closing that gap down helped Tremendously....

it absolutely did, and it's very surprising that it started too... weird

also, how would be the best way to clean the reusable foam air filter? water didn't seem to do anything.

I replace them but you can wash them in kerosene or even gasoline OUTSIDE AWAY from flames, and let it dry. Or just some hot soapy water in the sink should clean it too. If you have some mineral spirits or stoddard solvent that works well too and is less flammable.

Any type f solvent or fuel will cause the filter to disintegrate. Hot soapy water works best.

Rivets said:

Any type f solvent or fuel will cause the filter to disintegrate. Hot soapy water works best.

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if so the filter was at the end of its life. I can see where acetone or MEK would do that but not oil based products.

ok, thanks

All off road motorcycle shops sell foam filter cleaners
The ones mixed with water like a detergent are the best value
I use hair shampoo which seems to work really well at 50% and rinses out without damage .
I do them when I shower unless it gets very busy

bertsmobile1 said:

All off road motorcycle shops sell foam filter cleaners
The ones mixed with water like a detergent are the best value
I use hair shampoo which seems to work really well at 50% and rinses out without damage .
I do them when I shower unless it gets very busy

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hahahahahahaha

what brand of sparkplug do you prefer to buy? i have decided to do an outer rebuild of the engine.

lanerdude9 said:

what brand of sparkplug do you prefer to buy? i have decided to do an outer rebuild of the engine.

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I don't know why but this is just me,
I usually put NGK's in Japanese engines (Kawasaki, Honda, Yamaha etc.) Most common are BPR5ES or 6ES
Briggs and Kohlers etc i put Champion plugs in. most common for me are RC12YC and J19LM

Scrubcadet10 said:

I don't know why but this is just me,
I usually put NGK's in Japanese engines (Kawasaki, Honda, Yamaha etc.) Most common are BPR5ES or 6ES
Briggs and Kohlers etc i put Champion plugs in. most common for me are RC12YC and J19LM

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ok, for me the most common sparkplug is champion H10C, I have quite a few JDs with those shakin' kohlers hahaha

I have found that Champions seem to give less problems in 2 strokes
So I use NGK's in most 4 strokes & Champions in most 2 strokes unless the customer specifies a particular plug brand
I also stock Bosh plugs as I got a good deal on 400 of them .

I am probably drive the other techs crazy now that I replacing the NGK BPR5ES and 6ES with NGK BKR5ES and 6ES. Just reduces my stocking both plugs. They are same plug just need a different tool. And I don't even stock the Champion RC12YC as the BKR5ES are the NGK replacement.

I just had a Honda engine that BPR5ES was causing the socket to jam when I install the plug so the BKR5ES went in its place.

What's different between the BPR and BKR? different hex size?

Scrubcadet10 said:

What's different between the BPR and BKR? different hex size?

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You got it. BPR is 13/16" and the BKR is 5/8". Other than that the specs are the same.

StarTech said:

You got it. BPR is 13/16" and the BKR is 5/8". Other than that the specs are the same.
View attachment 59796

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Good chart, i'll have to remember it

Scrubcadet10 said:

What's different between the BPR and BKR? different hex size?

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different socket sizes to turn, and bkr insulator is thicker and heavier duty.

bertsmobile1 said:

I have found that Champions seem to give less problems in 2 strokes
So I use NGK's in most 4 strokes & Champions in most 2 strokes unless the customer specifies a particular plug brand
I also stock Bosh plugs as I got a good deal on 400 of them .

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champions also seem to have a higher heat range, but get hot quicker on my engine, probably because we are go-kart tuning it so it will be at full throttle a lot of the time when we accelerate

Yes
B=14mm thread
P= projected tip
K = reduced hex size
I have some very thin walled plug sockets so I usually don't bother keeping K plugs as they are in the next price group up .