My wife recently mowed on my wheelhorse 266h when the drive belt jumped the pulley and would no longer turn. Needless to say, the belt burned up as she tried to continue to drive. I bought and replaced the new belt fairly painlessly. Those of you that have done this know what I mean. I thought I had conquered the problem, but now the tractor does not move. The engine starts as it always did, the trans pin on the back is engaged, the brake is released. I did nothing more than swap belts. However, i did notice the new belt sems much looser than the original. No doubt that owould create my problem. I triple checked the routing and everything else ihad done. No fault found. I then wrapped a small length of twine around the o.d. of the installed belt so I wouldn't have to disassemble everything again, and marked the length. Taped it to the o.d. of the old belt and as crude as my method was, it came within 1/8" of each other. Belt is the right length. I love this mower and it is in very good condition otherwise. I'd hate to part with it or have to dump a huge service fee to get it fixed for something seemingly so easy to correct... any ideas? I have tried to adjust the tension but there is not much adjustment available... the pulleys are tight. The spring is connected properly. I just can't figure out why the tension varies as much from one belt to the next when the are the same length. Maybe I'm missing something more obvious. Please help... or at least tell me what the book value is for a disfunctional 266H
#2
reddragon
its either the wrong belt or tranny......have somebody else engage the belt/tranny while you get on your belly to watch the belt.....see if it turns the belt or not.....you can also use a floor jack and stands to lift the rear tires for the same test
#3
Carscw
I would think the old belt would be stretched I would go a inch smaller and make sure all the pulleys operate correctly. You say the belt jumped off so I am thinking it got stretched
WELCOME to LMF
Do you have the correct belt Width?... Also check for damage on the engine pulley, burning the belt there, may have damaged that pulley....
If all else fails, go with a shorter belt...:smile:KennyV
thanks to all. it was my suspicion all along that my belt may be too long. my only detracting factor is that the belt is O.E. direct from a Toro dealer. I'm not completely sold, though, because the original part number was crossed to a new number (the old # is no longer mfg'd). I verified on Toro's website. The belt does turn fine on all pulleys (i removed the access panel in front of the seat while engaging the forward control) and the connecting arm to the tranny operates normally. Would it help to adjust the linkage? Otherwise, I'm all for going to a shorter belt but it has been suggested to me that tractor belts are made differently from regular v-belts... i wouldn't see how since they are all made to drive on pulleys, but... Any insight on where I might find a belt? I considered a run-of-the-mill v-belt with consistent width, pitch and a slightly shorter length from Grainger or Applied Industrial, but if there is a clearer alternative I'd appreciate knowing that source.
#6
Carscw
Many here may say use the toro belt but I get mine at advance auto parts I know your thinking they are cheap belts but I have paid up to 3 times the price and the advance belt has out lasted every other belt
Are we sure its the belt? You need to ensure that the pulleys are all turning when you engage the clutch. If they are moving make sure they are not slipping on the shaft. It is possible that either a set screw or and a key has fallen out. Are you sure all of the parts are there? Did something move ?
The motor or an idler. If the belts are the same length the new one should fit tighter due to its newness and the width of the belt. I think you need to have someone in the drivers seat as you are at a vantage point to see what is really happening. Good luck..
