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Hello Everyone:

I am not the greatest mechanic, so I am looking for some help. I want to replace the HG2800 hydraulic oil and am struggling to remove the Fill Port Plug. Do I need to remove the tires to gain access to the plug? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

NO, follow this link & see if that helps.. It is for HG 2800's I just did mine.. Any questions, ask 1st before guessing. I would highly recommend cleaning the hydros before as ANY bit of dirt could be very bad for the units

7394 said:

Commercial Oil Kit - Hydro-Gear

Hydro-Gear’s Transaxle Oil Service Kits contain everything you need to optimize the performance and extend the life of your machine's transaxles. With oil formulated from high-quality base stocks combined with modern performance additives, you can expect your Hydro-Gear drive systems to continue...

www.hydro-gear.com

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Thank you. I saw this as well. So, instead of replacing the oil through the Fill Port Plug, I can use the pump with the Top Port Plug (which is easier to access).

Thank you for your response and help!!!

Do you have External expansion tanks connected to each hydro ?

7394 said:

Do you have External expansion tanks connected to each hydro ?

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I do not. My serial number has a T in the 13th position. This means mine has internal expansion tanks correct?

My understanding is if I did have an external, I remove the filter to drain the oil. Then remove the top port plug. Fill the external expansion tank until the top port plug starts "dripping." Then do the air purge.

Because mine does not, that is what I am trying to determine. This fill port plug was my approach but your suggestion of using the pump may be easier.

BGreen21 said:

I do not. My serial number has a T in the 13th position. Mine are same, Internal Expansion units This means mine or internal expansion tanks correct? That is correct..

My understanding is if I did have an external, I remove the filter to drain the oil. Regardless, you drain oil from them by removing the oil filters (If they have never been off, then can be VERY tight to remove). & have yer drain pan there & ready. Forget about External, just focus on Internal Expansion units.. Less confusing. Removing the fill level (Top port plug) plugs is not that hard, get under yer machine & remove them, mine took 11/16" box wrench.

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BGreen21 said:

Because mine does not, that is what I am trying to determine. This fill port plug was my approach but your suggestion of using the pump may be easier. Either way, the side plugs MUST be removed to know it is full.

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BGreen- Study this, it is a guide.

Thank you so much! Let me read your post. You have been a great help. Thank you and Merry Christmas!

Yes take yer time & read it all. Merry Christmas

7394 said:

Yes take yer time & read it all. Merry Christmas

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I am reading your post and the manual. Your comments about 16 oz being short of using a gallon for both units are interesting. Based on my serial number, digit 7 and 13, is states that 56.6 oz for each unit is full. That aligns with your numbers as well.

OK, once I filled till it came out side ports @ 56.6 oz each, & capped them Let it sit overnight, & rechecked next day, it took some more in each, then did purge process over & over. let sit overnight again.. REchecked levels, & added a slight bit, so about 63 oz in each. Bottom line is Clean Clean & Clean. Wipe above the oil filters (like show shine rag, before you would even begin to loosen them. Any dirt at all could wreck them.

And after good purge processes, it can take a lil more fluid. HG tech told me this..

7394 said:

OK, once I filled till it came out side ports 56.6 oz each, & capped them Let it sit overnight, & rechecked next day, it took some more in each, then did purge process over & over. let sit overnight again.. REchecked levels, & added a slight bit, so about 63 oz in each. Bottom line is Clean Clean & Clean. Wipe above the oil filters (like show shine rag, before you would even begin to loosen them. Any dirt at all could wreck them.

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Yes. I just finished reading your post/link you sent. That was very helpful as well. One point of clarification. Is the side port you mentioned and the top port the same plug? The SCAG manual uses Top Port. But the HG manual calls it Side Cover, Oil Level Port. I am guessing they are the same.

And the process you recommend based on the video/kit, I do not need to take off the oil input port (#5)? That is the port I struggle to access. I assume you struggle to access as well with your Liberty.

BGreen21 said:

Yes. I just finished reading your post/link you sent. That was very helpful as well. One point of clarification. Is the side port you mentioned and the top port the same plug? The SCAG manual uses Top Port. But the HG manual calls it Side Cover, Oil Level Port. I am guessing they are the same. They are, It's confusing, just who is calling it.. But look to be sure..

And the process you recommend based on the video/kit, I do not need to take off the oil input port (#5)? I did not need to. That is the port I struggle to access. I see, mine has room to access, but I did it all thru the side fill/oil level/ fill port from underneath. . That is your end of it fill level anyhow. I assume you struggle to access as well with your Liberty. If you have the black double barbed fitting for the pumper, you can do it all thru the sides.. (Important) It vents as it fills. Air is what need to escape.

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I put mine up on wooden blocks so it sit level & I could work under it easier..

7394 said:

I put mine up on wooden blocks so it sit level & I could work under it easier..

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Thank you. You just saved me. I see you post often and are particular about your unit. Recommendation on a Grease Gun?

I was raised to take care of my equipment. So something I may not know about, I research it & ask questions & then determine if I got this. Like you are doing. Then next time is easier. Having it level is important to fill it full level.

Any decent hand pump grease gun is all ya need. Nothing fancy. Mine only takes about 1/2 stroke in each fitting anyhow. Mine only has 50.0 hours on it. How about yours ?

If you can safely put it up on 3" to 5" or so wooden blocks & level (DO NOT use concrete blocks) you should have decent access to work under it (I did anyhow),..Set your park brake as well. Make sure it is Very Stable before even going under,.. Life is precious.

7394 said:

I was raised to take care of my equipment. Having it level is important to fill it full level.
A decent hand pump grease gun is all ya need. Mine only takes about 1/2 stroke in each fitting anyhow. Mine only has 50.0 hours on it. How about yours ?

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Just got it. I prepare early so that when I need to service the unit, I am ready to go and have all the proper tools. I am new to taking care of my equipment on my own. I usually have it serviced, but I want to learn how to use my hands. So starting with my Stihl, Echo, and now Scag equipment.

I need to buy something to lift the unit as well. I assume a floor jack and jack stands are what I need.

How do you lift your unit on wooden blocks?

Excellent we all start somewhere.

For lifting in the shop, I use my 3 TON floor jack... Start in rear (heaviest) block up, & carefully lower onto blocks move to front. do same. I would advise against getting a lower cost 2 ton unit. Those jacks are not safe imo..

My floor jack is over 30 years old. I bought a good one & it is still good.. And jack stands of mine are all 3 ton.

On my floor jack I cut a heavy piece of good rubber for lifting pad, so it doesn't scratch up everything, but also so it does not Slip.

& I have Echo & Shindaiwa, both over 10 years old & still run & look new.

7394 said:

Excellent we all start somewhere.

For lifting in the shop, I use my 3 TON floor jack... Start in rear (heaviest) block up, & carefully lower onto blocks move to front. do same. I would advise against getting a lower cost 2 ton unit. Those jacks are not safe imo..

My floor jack is over 30 years old. I bought a good one & it is still good.. And jack stands of mine are all 3 ton.

On my floor jack I cut a heavy piece of good rubber for lifting pad, so it doesn't scratch up everything, but also so it does not Slip.

& I have Echo & Shindaiwa, both over 10 years old & still run & look new.

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I have four 3-ton jack stands. I wonder if that will work for my 42 Liberty Z? I just need the 3-ton floor jack.

Look it over for places to hold it at. I personally like it sitting on wheel blocks, but if set up safely, should be good.

Wondering if your mower has this issue. I had a scag liberty Z 36" about a month. It had an issue with the deck adjustment pins interfering and rubbing on the deck lift arm on the inner pin adjustments, those holes closest to the operator. (ie: 4" hole etc)
Sometimes to get the pin to go into the inner adjustment holes would need to tap on the deck lift cam to move the deck lift arm inwards to access the inner adjustment holes. The dealer contacted scag and scan's answer was to reverse the 2 bushings on the lift arm to move it about 1/2" inboard. This solved the issue, and all pins were accessible.
However. Down the road this caused a catastrophic deck drop while mowing in 4 1/2" height (outer hole), when vibrations caused the cam to move and the deck stop tab that is held by the pin to slip past the pin and drop the deck all the way to the ground causing a 15 foot all the way to the dirt.
Before I was able to shut it down ,burned up the clutch and burnt the belt. Dealer kindly took back the unit an ordered me another one. The replacement had the same issue.
The issue can be seen in you tube video from Tony's lawn care.
Can't find a 42" liberty Z around me to look at, to see if this is present on those too. Just wondering if yours has the same issue.

My 48" Liberty does not have that issue. I can easily set & cut in all heights..

And FYI, with all tires properly inflated, set the cut height @ (say for example 3 inches). Then go under & measure blade tips to the level ground parked on, & most won't be accurately set to say 3 inches cut height.. Close but not precise.

But mine are, I adjusted them to be correct.

Even my former Toro 4260 was off.