2010 Murray Electrical issue
- Thread starter BGS Mex
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- Sep 7, 2024
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Hi BGS Mex,
I finally had a chance to print off the diagram and study it.
Print off the diagram that scrubcadet10 sent you.
The way I read the diagram, the "S" terminal white wire goes from the key switch to the clutch pedal switch and from there to the blade engage (attachment clutch) switch before it goes to the solenoid to trigger it for cranking the engine starter.
Just jumping the "B" red switch the "S" white wire at the switch will not crank the engine.
There is a clutch switch or blade engage switch or one of their connector pins that is having a problem. Possibly one of the switches are out of position. That is likely why you are having strange voltage readings, there is resistance/ voltage drop.
I finally had a chance to print off the diagram and study it.
Print off the diagram that scrubcadet10 sent you.
The way I read the diagram, the "S" terminal white wire goes from the key switch to the clutch pedal switch and from there to the blade engage (attachment clutch) switch before it goes to the solenoid to trigger it for cranking the engine starter.
Just jumping the "B" red switch the "S" white wire at the switch will not crank the engine.
There is a clutch switch or blade engage switch or one of their connector pins that is having a problem. Possibly one of the switches are out of position. That is likely why you are having strange voltage readings, there is resistance/ voltage drop.
Yes that is the way I have read the diagrams too. I have been doing my testing with both the Brake/Clutch and the Blade Interlocks closed. The white pins on each (tested at the conductor side) Have continuity to each other when closed and the green at the seat interlock (closed) has continuity with the green on the blade interlock and with the A2 (green) terminal on the ignition switch (on or off). It also has continuity to the L (Yellow) terminal on the ignition switch in the OFF position. The grey at the seat interlock has continuity with the grey on the Brake interlock. I am just finishing a complete summary of all the testing I have done to date and will send it when I have finished.
I agree completely with your "resistance/voltage drop". I just haven't been able to isolate it.
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2024
- Threads
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- 836
Can you connect a wire from the B terminal on the switch (with the battery connected) then touch it to the white wire pin on the solenoid to crank the engine? Key does not have to be on.
If it cranks that is bypassing everything and goes direct. If it does not crank, check the red wire for an issue getting power to the start switch. Trace the red wire back through all connections and verify they are clean and tight.
Also, I am not sure if the Husqvarna switch has the same internal pin contacts as the mower you are testing. Not all switches are the same internally.
If it cranks that is bypassing everything and goes direct. If it does not crank, check the red wire for an issue getting power to the start switch. Trace the red wire back through all connections and verify they are clean and tight.
Also, I am not sure if the Husqvarna switch has the same internal pin contacts as the mower you are testing. Not all switches are the same internally.