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Hello everybody, I just found the forum. My center spindle bearings are shot. I removed the spindle and there is a silver disc with 2 Allen Head screws that I removed. The disc looks like it should come right off but I have tried prying it with a screw driver and pounded on the spindle and it is not budging. Any ideas how to get this thing lose? It is not rusted. The silver disc has two holes in the top of it. Does this require some sort of special tool? Photos attached. Seems that I can't attach the photos because they are too large file sizes. Thanks, Steve

Not at all sure what you are describing
The spindle should push out from the top as it has a flange on the bottom for the blades to bolt onto
Once the spindle is out there are a couple of spacers then a snap ring above the top & below the bottom bearings that retain them

I hope this will help.

Could post a pic of the spindle assy? It sounds like someone changed out the spindle with a Scag spindle. Also need a god close image the silver disc and it holes.

As for reduced them down in size to something like 600 x 600 dpi, probably the site has a max DPI setting. Most modern cameras and phones save in very large DPIs which takes up large amount of memory.

And Bert on the spindle assy you posted the spindle comes out on the blade side. The bearings are held in place with snap rings.

Mine has a different configuration from the video and the diagram. I don't have a snap ring. I'll see if I can take a lower resolution photo.

Here's a photo of the disc I was talking about. There is no snap link under it.

This is the disc. It had to 2 allen screws in it which I removed. There is no snap link under it.

Can you post the model number from the serial number tag. Something amiss here as all I can find online is the above exploded view.

StarTech said:

Can you post the model number from the serial number tag. Something amiss here as all I can find online is the above exploded view.

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I agree! That doesn’t look anything like a Dixie Chopper 10161HD.

And I will make that number 3
In any case it still loos like it is going to drive out from the top
So put the nut back on the top And give it a few healthy "taps" and see if it shifts.
The only thing I have seen anything like that is the Ariens Zoom spindle housing which has a similar looking collar top & bottom which threads onto the spindle but that one looks like the spindle pushes through,

bertsmobile1 said:

And I will make that number 3
In any case it still loos like it is going to drive out from the top
So put the nut back on the top And give it a few healthy "taps" and see if it shifts.
The only thing I have seen anything like that is the Ariens Zoom spindle housing which has a similar looking collar top & bottom which threads onto the spindle but that one looks like the spindle pushes through,

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@bertsmobile1
The holes where he removed the Allen head screws may be for a spanner wrench. Ariens/Gravely does have spindles that look similar. But, we can’t see the entire assembly and we do not know the model number and serial number of the machine. Oregon and Rotary assemblies that cross to the 10161HD can be purchased for about $75 each.

That spindle has tapered Temkin bearings and the plate you are looking at is threaded onto the shaft if memory serve me right there is a set screw in the plate. D/C does not supply parts for these spindles so you would have to replace the spindle

D/C has changed their spindle to non serviceable ones. I know in the parts break down it shows a long and a short the Silver does not take a long spindle shaft they are all short. new part no. 302585 $143.23 throught D/C

H is correct. My 2005 Silver Eagle had 2 spindles with ball bearings that I had overhauled with no problem. The center spindle however had tapered roller bearings and the threaded plate is to adjust the bearings before locking the set screws. I managed to purchase the bearings but couldn't locate the seals. I bought a replacement spindle from Amazon using the DC part number 2+ years ago. Fixed.

Thank for the info as they appeared to changed to spindles and the IPLs. Deleting the old setup. What was throwing off was no threads at the plate.

The first models of the LT series of the Silver Eagles had that type of spindle. They did away with it years ago and went to the ball bearing design you are seeing in the IPL. They no loner support that spindle with parts. You can still get the ball bearing type spindle parts. The latest spindle is part no. 302585. It is a non serviceable spindle with no grease fitting.

Did some more work on the spindle today. Turns out the silver disc with the 2 holes in it actually is threaded to the spindle rod. Of course someone during manufacturing I guess seems to have broke off a allen screw and then put another one on top of it. I finally got frustrated and hit to top of it with a 12 pound sledge and jarred it lose. The threads look ok. I guess I'll find out when I put it back together.

Can I get my model number from the serial number? My model number tag under the seat is completely washed out.

Thanks, Steve

Model Number is LT2000-44 and serial number is SE6047398. Where can I get the bearings and other things I need to rebuild this spindle? Can you buy a kit or something?

hlw49 said:

The first models of the LT series of the Silver Eagles had that type of spindle. They did away with it years ago and went to the ball bearing design you are seeing in the IPL. They no loner support that spindle with parts. You can still get the ball bearing type spindle parts. The latest spindle is part no. 302585. It is a non serviceable spindle with no grease fitting.

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So you are saying I just need to buy a new spindle then because I can't get any replacement bearings?

My bad spindle is the center one. Is that considered long shaft because it has 2 pulleys on it? Is that a different part number from what you stated above?

yes unless you want to try and match the bearings somehow. We never tried to service these spindles since you would have to replace them sooner or later.

Measure your existing spindle. The long ones are 9.5” and the regular ones are 8”. You need to know this before ordering. The parts diagram lists 3 of the regular length spindles. You need the verify that. Just measure to be sure. Heck, just take one of the others off and compare.

stbird said:

So you are saying I just need to buy a new spindle then because I can't get any replacement bearings?

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I believe the taper bearing are still available but would need the numbers off the bearings. Most likely they are the LM series and you will the correct cups too.. The main problem will be the seals as they NLA from DC.

MParr said:

Measure your existing spindle. The long ones are 9.5” and the regular ones are 8”. You need to know this before ordering. The parts diagram lists 3 of the regular length spindles. You need the verify that. Just measure to be sure. Heck, just take one of the others off and compare.

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My spindle bolt is 8 1/2"!

Take one of your other spindles off and sit them side by side. Then you will know for sure.

I've already been thru this located the bearings could not find the seals DC dealer could not help with parts as they were obsolete bought new spindle @ Amazon for around $60 Fixed.

It is very rare for a mower company to use any seal that is not a standard size
This is a simple economy as a custom seal can cost $ 20 to $ 50 a piece where as a standard one can go for less than $ 1 if bought in large enough qualtities.
So you need top go to a specialist bearing supplier with the bearing ( all 3 parts ) and the grease seal .
Note than there are standard seals & common seals
Standard means they will be available but not necessarily cheap
Common means they will be both available & cheap

The spindles on the SE is one length all are short. I know the center one has two pulleys but if you will look at the IPL the other two have spacers to take up the extra room the pulley on the center one takes. Work on these things daily just changed a couple out over the last two weeks. Just buy the replacement and do yourself the head ache of trying to find the parts. Just my two cents worth.

What @hlw49 said!

Thanks for all the help and guidance. I have the new spindle ordered. I have to believe the original design was better but also more expensive. It's pretty amazing all the upgrades on the 2005 Silver Eagle that you can now only find on high end commercial mowers. I'm looking at getting a new Hustler and you have to spend over $11,000 for the Z to get wheel motor pumps with a reservoir.

People will not pay a fair & reasonable price for anything
We want everything and we want it for free .
Thus top end mowers get downgraded to a level that enough of the market will pay for to make it economically viable .

Almost all the mower manufactures are going to the one piece EZT units. Cheaper to manufacture less parts to keep up. They seem to hold up as well. Easier to service. Not sure of the price difference would have to research that one. Big Dog is built by Excel who also makes the Hustler mowers really nice mowers. They have comparable mowers except for the mower with the hyper drive, S88, S104 and diesel model. Big Dog kills them on the warranty, 7 years 1500 hours compared to 5 years 1,000 hours.

Big problem with 2 self contained units is getting the drive from the belt balanced between the two of them.
Ideally if you have 2 units each should have its own belt.
BEcause the engine is behind the drives and rotates clockwise , the right hydro gets a direct pull from the belt and the tension is highest between the engine & the right drive
The pull from the right drive to the left drive is a little less and the belt tension is a bitt lower because the right drive is resisting the rotation because it is doing work.
Thus the lefts always spin a touch slower and if you troll through these posts you will see the left nearly always fails first .
Some makers are trying to overcome this by increasing the contact arc on the left drive from 120 deg that the right has to near 180 deg.
Toro are a prime example of this where the tensioning idler on the left run of the belt just about touches the right side.

On a single pump, 2 motor system , there is no such power imbalance and on these units the right usually fails before the left because most people are right handed and do more steering with the right lever than the left .

However the single pump requires a lot of plumbing and that is a lot more expensive so what was posted back in # 32 comes into play .

stbird said:

Thanks for all the help and guidance. I have the new spindle ordered. I have to believe the original design was better but also more expensive. It's pretty amazing all the upgrades on the 2005 Silver Eagle that you can now only find on high end commercial mowers. I'm looking at getting a new Hustler and you have to spend over $11,000 for the Z to get wheel motor pumps with a reservoir.

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The Hustler X-One comes with wheel motors and reservoir. It’s similar to the Big Dog Diablo. Here is the 2020 Hustler price sheet for the State of Kansas.

that recess slot looks like a place for a set screw, Is it?

I'm thinking that the disc is threaded and you need to buy/fabricate a spanner to enter those holes and spin it out.

northcreeek262 said:

I'm thinking that the disc is threaded and you need to buy/fabricate a spanner to enter those holes and spin it out.

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You are correct. Unfortunately they don't have bearings for the unit anymore, so I kind of wasted my time but found out some good information. Mine would have actually spun off pretty easy except that during manufacture I guess someone somehow marred the spindle with the Allen screw I think so it wouldn't turn off. There always seems to be some issue that makes an easy problem difficult!

northcreeek262 said:

View attachment 57436

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stbird said:

You are correct. Unfortunately they don't have bearings for the unit anymore, so I kind of wasted my time but found out some good information. Mine would have actually spun off pretty easy except that during manufacture I guess someone somehow marred the spindle with the Allen screw I think so it wouldn't turn off. There always seems to be some issue that makes an easy problem difficult!

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Ain't that the truth!!!

I can't count how many times I've told the wife, "this is a easy 30min job, no big deal. So, I'll be home early!" And then there's a broken bolt or frozen bearing, or something that turns my my "easy, 30min job" into a 3 hour pain in my buttocks!!!
When jobs like this go as planned, I enjoy servicing my own equipment. It's therapeutic to tighten up that last bolt, and everything works like it should!

It's when something is frozen on, stripped, or cross threaded that causes you to lose your temper...
Or even worse, is when the factory makes something harder to repair than it should be, for no apparent reason, that encourages throwing wrenches!!!

stbird said:

So you are saying I just need to buy a new spindle then because I can't get any replacement bearings?

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Dixie used that cheap non repairable assembly for a couple of years you have to replace the whole assembly you can order from Dixie or BURKHEIMER EQUIPMENT 410-734-4242

Dixie may have discontinued to stock the bearing but it will be a standard bearing, unless the balls . rollers run directly onto the housing or shaft.
So take it to a bearing shop and order replacements
No one uses custom bearings they are just too expensive

Never saw a spindle like that. Have seen a gear on a Onan like that were you use a steering wheel puller and a few machine screws to remove it. and the spindle nut with some washers to press it back on

stbird said:

You are correct. Unfortunately they don't have bearings for the unit anymore, so I kind of wasted my time but found out some good information. Mine would have actually spun off pretty easy except that during manufacture I guess someone somehow marred the spindle with the Allen screw I think so it wouldn't turn off. There always seems to be some issue that makes an easy problem difficult!

Click to expand...

Have checked Ebay for bearings ? I find a lot of obsolete stuff there, Mike.

I have a 2006 - 2550 Silver Eagle with the same set up for the spindles! DC contracted a company in South America, I think Venezuela, to fill a shortage of spindles when these machines were made. To bad they didn't share that information with the owners of those machines. There are metric bearings and seals are avaliable at almost any good industrial bearing supply house.If not they can order either for you. There may be 3 set screws on the upper adjuster and they all have to be removed and the spindle shaft will unscrew from the adjuster plate. This is actually a better hub assembly since it is adjustable for bearing wear. Saw this discussion but had to start a new login and user account after several attempts to get a new password set up for my original account. I serviced both of the outer shafts and they have performed very well. After the first one is done it is easy to rebuild them in the future. .

MParr said:

I agree! That doesn’t look anything like a Dixie Chopper 10161HD.

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My 2006 LT2500 44D is exactly the same as his from the factory. Easily repaired with Timken bearings.

northcreeek262 said:

Have checked Ebay for bearings ? I find a lot of obsolete stuff there, Mike.

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Bearings available everywhere

Jaxondaweb said:

I have a 2006 - 2550 Silver Eagle with the same set up for the spindles! DC contracted a company in South America, I think Venezuela, to fill a shortage of spindles when these machines were made. To bad they didn't share that information with the owners of those machines. There are metric bearings and seals are avaliable at almost any good industrial bearing supply house.If not they can order either for you. There may be 3 set screws on the upper adjuster and they all have to be removed and the spindle shaft will unscrew from the adjuster plate. This is actually a better hub assembly since it is adjustable for bearing wear. Saw this discussion but had to start a new login and user account after several attempts to get a new password set up for my original account. I serviced both of the outer shafts and they have performed very well. After the first one is done it is easy to rebuild them in the future. .

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Bearing is a Timken L44649, cup L44610, seal 8695L. Used mostly for trailers.

stbird said:

Hello everybody, I just found the forum. My center spindle bearings are shot. I removed the spindle and there is a silver disc with 2 Allen Head screws that I removed. The disc looks like it should come right off but I have tried prying it with a screw driver and pounded on the spindle and it is not budging. Any ideas how to get this thing lose? It is not rusted. The silver disc has two holes in the top of it. Does this require some sort of special tool? Photos attached. Seems that I can't attach the photos because they are too large file sizes. Thanks, Steve

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I know it's after the fact but for others with the same problem on their mid 2000 Silver Eagles with this spindle: Remove the 3 double set screws on that collar. Tap with a punch counterclockwise. Remove seal and snap ring. (shaft comes right out) Do same to bottom side. Punch out race (cup) and cone bearing. Timken cone #L44649, cup L44610, seal 8695L available at most any bearing vender. Under 25 bucks if you look. Used on most boat trailers. Too bad these spindles are no longer available because they can be rebuilt with greasable quality tapered bearings many times.

stbird said:

Hello everybody, I just found the forum. My center spindle bearings are shot. I removed the spindle and there is a silver disc with 2 Allen Head screws that I removed. The disc looks like it should come right off but I have tried prying it with a screw driver and pounded on the spindle and it is not budging. Any ideas how to get this thing lose? It is not rusted. The silver disc has two holes in the top of it. Does this require some sort of special tool? Photos attached. Seems that I can't attach the photos because they are too large file sizes. Thanks, Steve

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Mine are on the 2nd rebuild. Easy.

northcreeek262 said:

Have checked Ebay for bearings ? I find a lot of obsolete stuff there, Mike.

Click to expand...

The very last place one should buy bearings from is ebay or amazon
while there are some genuine NOS bearings sold there, most are fakes or quality control rejects .
The most faked item on the planet is bearings , not expensive watches .
Lots of factories make $ 1.50 bearings then etch a quality company name on the sides and ell them for $ 10 by the thousands to clots who think they are getting a $20 bearing for $ 10 then go on social media to tell every one that brand XYZ bearing are now junk .
Bearings should always come from a bearing shop, over the counter so you know that it is a real shop with real bearings.
Next best is a real parts store, one with a nice big glass window you can throw a rock through if they sell you fake bearings
One down from that are genuine internet specialist that have a name you have heard
I Sell cheap cheap , Number 1 bearing shop , Good cheap etc etc etc vendors on Scamazon & Evilpay will sell you junk .

stbird said:

Hello everybody, I just found the forum. My center spindle bearings are shot. I removed the spindle and there is a silver disc with 2 Allen Head screws that I removed. The disc looks like it should come right off but I have tried prying it with a screw driver and pounded on the spindle and it is not budging. Any ideas how to get this thing lose? It is not rusted. The silver disc has two holes in the top of it. Does this require some sort of special tool? Photos attached. Seems that I can't attach the photos because they are too large file sizes. Thanks, Steve

Click to expand...

In 2005 - 06 there were spindles made in So. America. They were metric had set screws in the top disc on the side of the disc and the disc would screw off and on and the bearing consisted of an inner and outer bearing race and the seal was separate from the bearing. My 2006 has them. All of the components can be purchased from a commercial equipment bearing company and they are easy to reassemble. They are also adjustable like an older automobile front wheel or trailer hub. My suggestion is to buy a complete replacement hub unless you are mechanically inclined and understand the hubs on a trailer or the front wheel bearing on a 76 Corvette. The newer bearing sets are sealed and the grease fitting is almost useless you remove the inner seal so that grease from a grease gun to reach the bearing.

My 50" 2005/06 2750 had the old style hub that had 3 set screws in the side of the upper flange, "Old Style assy was used when the South America plant (think it was Brazil) was being used. The screws come out and you have to unscrew the upper hub and then the lower bearing assembly comes out the bottom. Some folks just buy a new hub but all that is necessary is to replace the bearings and seals.