20 HP lawnmower difficulty cranking

gamma_ray

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Hello,

I'm having an issue with a Honda GXV620 20HP dual-cylinder engine on a Hustler Fastrak. We purchased this mower in 2003 and it has run beautifully, the engine runs as good as when it was brand new. It has cranked flawless form 2003 until 2019, but over the last two seasons it there developed difficulties in the starter turning over the engine. At first, I removed the starter and cleaned the commutators, thinking there may be a bad spot because it would eventually crank after a few tries with the key. I would have to resort to jumping it with a vehicle, but that would be successful only when the vehicle is running and delivering 14+ volts. I eventually replaced the starter, and the problem was still there. Since then, I've put in a new battery, new positive cable, cleaned the negative cable, replaced the starter relay, that energizes the starter solenoid when the key is turned. It will eventually turn over after a lot of key turns, and it starts right away when it does crank.

If anyone has any ideas or things for me to try, I would appreciate it.

Thank you,
gamma
 

gamma_ray

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mechanic mark and Scrubcadet10,

Thank you both for that suggestion and adjustment specs. I will try that tomorrow, weather permitting.

Gamma
 

gamma_ray

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Hello,
I thought I would provide an update, just in case anyone is interested.

I set the valve lash as per specs, and the engine did the same thing, just clicked. Seeming like the starter solenoid was either not fully engaging the gear into the flywheel or staying engaged and not retracting, I tried rapping the solenoid with a mallet while having the key turned. The jolt from the mallet works, the engine immediately spins up and starts. I now have a mallet with the starter key for cranking the mower, lol.

It could it be a weak solenoid, but it's the second starter in a row that does this. Perhaps a genuine Honda solenoid would be better?

Maybe it's slightly out of alignment and not engaging fully into the flywheel? The two mounting bolts seem to fasten it to the block without any way for it to be so.

Anyway, The mallet solution works for the time being, and I've not had time to experiment with it further. I may try removing the spark plugs and see if it spins the motor freely ( should have tried this while I was setting valve lash but didn't think about it).

Anything further that can be recommended for me to try would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Gamma
 

Hammermechanicman

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Need more info.
When you turn the key and it does not start does starter engage and engine crank slow?
Does it do nothing? No click of starter or starter relay?
Does starter relay click but starter not engage?
When starter does crank engine does it crank slow or at normal speed?
 

mechanic mark

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When properly adjusting valves spark plugs should be removed so pencil etc. can be inserted into spark plug hole touching top of piston while rotating top screen clockwise until TDC { piston is at top dead center } can be located at top of stroke & both intake & exhaust valves are closed & both rocker arms are loose. Adjust intake & exhaust valves per specs. in Engine Manual. Engine should be cold when adjusting valves. On twin cylinder engine move to opposite side & rotate engine clockwise after inserting pencil into spark plug hole until TDC is reached. On B&S engines manuals state 1/4" past TDC. A slight drag should be felt when inserting feeler gauge between rocker arm & push rod. Recheck with feeler gauge after torqueing jam nuts per specs. in manual.
 
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Scrubcadet10

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Solenoid is mounted on the starter, correct?
 

slomo

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Starter solenoid is the FIRST thing on a starter I would replace. You have all that amperage arcing away on every key start. Eats away the solenoid contacts. Pretty soon it doesn't start.

Taryl has a great fix and an awesome video on it. (y)


slomo
 
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