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Hi all,

I own a 12.5 hp Briggs and Stratton, 38" cut MTD riding mower. The model and serial number plaque/sticker has long since been rendered illegible, so I can't help there. However, I know it takes a 917-0906A or 717-0906A deck spindle, because I've had to replace 3 in about 15 years. That's not too bad, I know, but as I'm replacing my spindles this weekend, I'm wondering if anyone has had success lubricating these, and how? They're sealed bearings without a zerk fitting, so standard greasing is out.

I thought if spray lithium since it's grease, but wonder if that would cause more problems than it would prevent.

Also, last time I removed the deck for cleaning, sharpening, belt replacing, all that jazz, I think I put the rear tension spring on incorrectly, since the deck never would lower all the way after that. Can someone tell me, or post a pic, of how the rear spring attaches?

Thanks, and gotta say I love the generic MTD/Yardman/Craftsman frame and the B&S combination: been really reliable.

Jack

I have one at home I will post a pic when I get home tonight.

Order the spindles on eBay from RUSSOPOWER they came with zerks and better bearings then oem

Or you can just replace the bearings once a year for $10

This is the spindle he has, no zerks, just replace the whole thing.

I was talking with someone who drilled and added fitting into the spindle housings. They also drilled holes into the spindle covers so they could grease them without removing the covers. Other then just standing next to the mower I don't know I don't know how he did it? If you do something like that just make sure you remove the inner bearing seals.

And only remove the inner seal.

Carscw said:

Or you can just replace the bearings once a year for $10

Click to expand...

I thought about that, but don't I need a special press to do so?

Jack

jsmith24 said:

I thought about that, but don't I need a special press to do so? Jack

Click to expand...

No they will pop right out

Huh? Where in the heck are you going to drill? Did you even look at the pic?

You guys are kidding, right?????????

You guys are assuming that his spindle looks more like this, but it isn't, if he gave the correct info.

Or this one.............................................................

Carscw said:

I have one at home I will post a pic when I get home tonight.

Order the spindles on eBay from RUSSOPOWER they came with zerks and better bearings then oem

Click to expand...

Yeah, post that pic.

Fish calm down. Relax don't have a melt down.

I know what his spindles look like and it is very easy to change the bearings.

The pic he needs is to show him where the springs go.

I will also show you the set I have that came with grease fittings.


Sometimes you act like a 4 year old when they don't get their own way.

Just because there are things you do not know how to do does not mean it can not be done.

If we all could only do things you know how to do none of us would ever get anything fixed.

Very easy??? Springs???

Yeah, I need to see this....

Here, I took one apart. So where do you drill/insert the zerk? When you remove the inner seals of the new bearings, do you
ooze a lotta sealant around the perimeter of the 1/8 inch steel parts and the flange??? One can get a new aftermarket spindle delivered for @ 22$, you are suggesting what? They don't come apart as easy as the newer ones, but if you have enough free time on your hands, well. But I still need to see this "zerk" installation......

OOOOPs!

I almost forgot......



If you actually drill the hole for the zerk in the outer race of the new bearing, I applaud your determination!!!!!

Fish said:

This is the spindle he has, no zerks, just replace the whole thing.

View attachment 21330

Click to expand...

Yep, that's the one. Nope, I don't see where I'd drill...the bearing sits right at the top, and it's sealed, best I can tell.

Jack

Fish said:

OOOOPs!

I almost forgot......View attachment 21335

View attachment 21336

If you actually drill the hole for the zerk in the outer race of the new bearing, I applaud your determination!!!!!

Click to expand...

Okay, so you just have one of those lying around, did you?

Jack

No worries, the gang here hates my guts, anyway..... If someone actually has tried to drill a zerk, he has more time on his hands than any sane person.....

I love you guys.....

Hi guys,

All settled!

Well, I got the new spindle in, no problem.

I looked at the old spindle, and sure enough, it looks like the old bearing just pop out for replacement.

Finally, whatever I did WRONG last time, I did RIGHT this time. Got the deck back on, and pulled the spring back into place in about two minutes. Works properly now, though I still don't know what I messed up the last time. Now to cut that "grass", which is actually 3 feet of dandelions.

Jack

Fish said:

You guys are kidding, right?????????

Click to expand...

If you read my post I said I was just told about it. I didn't look at how it was done. As to being possible I don't know without the spindle being in my hand?

So random: but do you have a pic of your mower deck and maybe a pet number for the deck belt? I have a 1991 MTD 12/38, that's why I asked. Good luck with your spindle, wish I could help

Mowerman91 said:

So random: but do you have a pic of your mower deck and maybe a pet number for the deck belt? I have a 1991 MTD 12/38, that's why I asked. Good luck with your spindle, wish I could help

Click to expand...

I can get a picture later today. I replaced the deck belt last year...MTD part number is 954-0329A, and the generic measurements are 5/8" X 69-9/32 (5/8 X 69.28").

Jack

Get the oem or oem spec aftermarket replacement belt for your mower, generic belts won't last very long. IF you have the 38" cut with the 2 deck pulleys and engine pulley only, and the deck lift lever also engages the deck, then the belt # is 954-0329, if you have a "42 deck with the same setup, your belt # is 954-0371

jsmith24 said:

Okay, so you just have one of those lying around, did you?

Jack

Click to expand...

Yeah, back about 10 years ago, you could get the cheapo ones for $9 as a dealer, that is probably one of them laying around.

To buy them from MTD, well you would be looking at @ $70 or so....

Boy, this thread really dried up.....

Carscw said:

Fish calm down. Relax don't have a melt down.

I know what his spindles look like and it is very easy to change the bearings.

The pic he needs is to show him where the springs go.

I will also show you the set I have that came with grease fittings.


Sometimes you act like a 4 year old when they don't get their own way.

Just because there are things you do not know how to do does not mean it can not be done.

If we all could only do things you know how to do none of us would ever get anything fixed.

Click to expand...

I really want to see this. I mean, if it is a good repair, I will laud you all over and give you all of the credit...

But these bearing failures usually involve bent parts/blades anyway, and the spindle was made to just be swapped out, unless you were a teenager
with a whole lot of time on his hands, well.........

Fish said:

I really want to see this. I mean, if it is a good repair, I will laud you all over and give you all of the credit... But these bearing failures usually involve bent parts/blades anyway, and the spindle was made to just be swapped out, unless you were a teenager with a whole lot of time on his hands, well.........

Click to expand...

Why would bad bearings involve bent blades and parts?

Are you really telling me you have never replaced spindle bearings?

Changing bearings takes no longer then changing blades on most mowers.
Hardest ones are toro because they are held in with clips.

On the spindle you posted a pic of you take the 3 nuts off the bearings will fall out put new ones in place put 3 nuts back on.

I have done the grease zerks very easy to drill and tap a hole. But to be honest I think the sealed bearings last longer then the ones you can grease.

So you are still saying that you have installed zerks on this style? These do not fall apart either when new, let alone when they are 12 years old,
they were pretty cheap, I knew of no shop or mechanic that would waste the time and effort to "swap" out the bearings on these.....

Carscw said:

Fish calm down. Relax don't have a melt down.

I will also show you the set I have that came with grease fittings.


Sometimes you act like a 4 year old when they don't get their own way.

Just because there are things you do not know how to do does not mean it can not be done.

If we all could only do things you know how to do none of us would ever get anything fixed.

Click to expand...

So how is that pic coming? Just real curious, since you have claimed to have done this, or claim to own one that has a zerk installed. Personally, I don't believe that you have actually worked on one like this... If so, describe the tools and procedure for removing the blades!!!!!

Fish said:

So how is that pic coming? Just real curious, since you have claimed to have done this, or claim to own one that has a zerk installed. Personally, I don't believe that you have actually worked on one like this... If so, describe the tools and procedure for removing the blades!!!!!

Click to expand...

You are ******* kidding me right?

Even a fuktard like you can change a blade. Or would you need the model numbers off the mower and blades and the wrench.

So you have never actually worked on one of these mowers at all? And you are dispensing advice like the Pope??????????

Go ahead and keep searching youtube!!!!!

Come on Lawn Pro, or do you need a day or so to do "research".....

What size socket does it take?????

Admit it, you have never even worked on one of these models....... If you had, you would know the zerk thing was/is silly.......

I am not bragging, or anything, as it is quite sad that this is even an argument but I hate seeing someone giving out bad advice....... I hate being on a site that has a bunch of kids giving advice about things that they know nothing about, and attack anyone that does.

Carscw said:

You are ******* kidding me right?

Even a fuktard like you can change a blade. Or would you need the model numbers off the mower and blades and the wrench.

Click to expand...

He pretty well lays it out plain, eh???

I even wiped it off so you could see it.

If I say I have something or did something then I do.

I only give advice when I have done it and it works.
I also ask for advice.
When it comes to engine repair I don't post on here I send a PM to who I think knows the most about engine repair

Now that is some silly chit!!! You had a moron tap a zerk into the pulley above the spindle, which just has the shaft behind it, and the "sealed"
bearings below it, and call that a good response??????

Thankfully there are not that many morons here!!!!!!

Admit it, you have been doing some serious Googling!!! And that is the best you could find!!!!!!!

Carscw said:

I even wiped it off so you could see it.

If I say I have something or did something then I do.

I only give advice when I have done it and it works.
I also ask for advice.
When it comes to engine repair I don't post on here I send a PM to who I think knows the most about engine repair

View attachment 21395

Click to expand...

You took it off the mower for us and wiped it off, how thoughtfulll.

Are you really trying to be serious?????

Bitch I do not have time to look for fake pics. Unlike you I have a JOB

The bearings are not sealed and the grease goes to both bearings just fine.
Only you would grease a sealed bearing.

You can buy the sleeve with the zerk on it.

I get that all you know how to do is look up parts.

You like to get **** going.

According to you you are the only one on this forum that knows what they are talking about.

You ask for model numbers then don't know how to help them fix it so you go on your rampage of 20 comments saying dumb **** just talking to your self.

I am done trying to match wits with you as you are out of ammunition.

Before you ask for a model number it is.

F15U3C1k. Y67O5U

Out of ammunition? You show a redneck jacked up deck, with someone stupid enough to tap a zerk on the top pulley shaft above the bearings,
with nothing behind it but the splined shaft.

the deck looks like it has been hanging around a bit.....





It is still real hard to believe that you are serious....

So how are you suggesting the grease gets down there to the bearings???