I have a 1995 John deer that won’t start unless I pump the brake pedal numerous times until I see a little red light come on the circuit board. If the light comes on it will start.some times it will stay running when I let off the brake and sometimes it will stall.Is it the circuit board or the brake switch. It stalls when the light goes off and keeps running when the light stays on. Help
1995 425 John deer won’t start
- Thread starter Gobbles44
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I am assuming that you mean the engine's starter is working but engine won't start otherwise.
Can be either the brake switch or seat switch. But with not staying running I would lean toward the seat switch.
Also the serial number of the mower to make sure we are looking at right circuit diagram.
Can be either the brake switch or seat switch. But with not staying running I would lean toward the seat switch.
Also the serial number of the mower to make sure we are looking at right circuit diagram.
Once the red light on the circuit board stays on the mower runs fine. But I have to constantly pump the brake pedal to get the red light to come on and then the mower starts immediately but then sometimes when I let out on the brake pedal it stalls so then I start the process over again until when I let out on the brake it continues to run ok and the red light stays on
Brake safety switch probably needs replacing or adjusting take it off and work it by hand and watch your light react to it , if it's intermittent / bad switch / if works otherwise it's an adjustment issue be my guess
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Then as I said it most likely the seat switch but the brake can be bad too. The brake activates both starter relay and ignition but once release the seat switch takes over the ignition relay power.
I have had similar with the brake switch , on a John Deere riding tractor . But will tell you , don't replace automatically the brake contact switch . First locate it (as you have the schematic) and try this , as most times it is Moisture/oxidation , that is preventing a good contact(and do same with seat contact) . Since they are simple electric contacts , back to the circuit board . So carefully use a brass small wire brush , or even 500 or even 1000 grit sandpaper .....Have even used a razor blade on occasion , to clean off any oxidation . IF , the oxidation , is on the circuit board , where the solder is not making good contact , use some rubbing alcohol , to clean it with a cloth , be very careful , and make sure power is NOT on the board . Maybe even using some solder cleaning flux , if alcohol does not work . Can use a power meter , on board , to make sure of any power interruptions , with the circuits . IF you have never tried or done that before , brush up with a you tube video . Will save you literally hundreds , to NOT have to rely on a mower repair shop , that will just replace ALL the associated parts , (MOST TIMES) and then charge you the spensive labor to replace those spensive parts .......So a few minutes work , will keep you from dragging riding mower to dealer .......Best of Luck , Happy 2023.......
Per
Perhaps first test the battery for low voltage. A worn low voltage
Make sure the battery voltage is ample. Low voltage can cause problems with circuits, readings, etc.
Yes , he may have low voltage , and not enough amps to crank over well . Could just put jumper cables on battery , while trying to start it . If low voltage , most times will soon after cranking over , drag the starter . Could have possibly a damaged cell , but again that may be apparent when trying to start . I put my battery on a very low charge/trickle charge , of around 1 amp or even 0.5 amps, with a variable charger . Helps to slowly build up charge in battery .
Brake switch. Not too difficult to replace. It might even be adjustable, like screwing it out a little.