1982 10 hp Craftsman 36" lawn tractor drag link failure

[Craiger]

I've had this machine since new. I've done some major things to keep 'er running like replace transmission, weld up rust holes in the deck, numerous jackshaft replacements, switch to Kevlar belts which are near bulletproof, change over to solid state ignition, rebuild carb, replace seat with one from Northern Tool, weld up cracks in the chassis, complete redesign and rebuild of vibration isolation engine mount bolts using rubber stoppers from Home Depot and Grade 8 bolts, replace leaking crankcase gasket. Today right as I finished mowing, the steering wheel got sloppy and didn't turn the wheels. In an instant I realized the drag link spherical joint at the steering arm had come apart.

I have checked carefully and cannot find the part. P/N from my original owner's manual is 1640J. Google, Amazon, eBay, you name it. Discontinued, part not available.

My question is this. Has anyone managed to repair this type spherical joint? The ball is still fine, from wear it just slipped out of the socket. My first thought is to lube with moly grease and re-insert and then carefully hammer on the rod end with spherical cavity enough to retain the ball. Would have to be careful not to deform the darn thing too much. Delicate touch with heavy hammer not an easy thing.

If that won't work, I'm thinking I could buy another drag link with same size threaded fitting (3/8" x 24 NF), cut it off and weld onto original drag link after cutting the bad end off. .

Has anyone out there run into this problem and what would be your advice?

 

[StarTech]

917.255272​

Husqvarna 1640J NLA

McMasters-Carr


My have to lengthen the rod some to offset the removal the ball joint.

 

[bertsmobile1]

I've had this machine since new. I've done some major things to keep 'er running like replace transmission, weld up rust holes in the deck, numerous jackshaft replacements, switch to Kevlar belts which are near bulletproof, change over to solid state ignition, rebuild carb, replace seat with one from Northern Tool, weld up cracks in the chassis, complete redesign and rebuild of vibration isolation engine mount bolts using rubber stoppers from Home Depot and Grade 8 bolts, replace leaking crankcase gasket. Today right as I finished mowing, the steering wheel got sloppy and didn't turn the wheels. In an instant I realized the drag link spherical joint at the steering arm had come apart.

I have checked carefully and cannot find the part. P/N from my original owner's manual is 1640J. Google, Amazon, eBay, you name it. Discontinued, part not available.

My question is this. Has anyone managed to repair this type spherical joint? The ball is still fine, from wear it just slipped out of the socket. My first thought is to lube with moly grease and re-insert and then carefully hammer on the rod end with spherical cavity enough to retain the ball. Would have to be careful not to deform the darn thing too much. Delicate touch with heavy hammer not an easy thing.

If that won't work, I'm thinking I could buy another drag link with same size threaded fitting (3/8" x 24 NF), cut it off and weld onto original drag link after cutting the bad end off. .

Has anyone out there run into this problem and what would be your advice?

IT is a forged and heat treated end so your solution will not happen.
Been there done that

Look your end up from the table Star has posted and buy a replacement
Meaure the threads carefully because some mower tie rod ends are unique combinations of threads .

 

[Craiger]

Thanks Star Tech. The diameter of my drag link rod is 0.638". If I cut the failed ball joint off, there would be a challenge to mount the linkages you show from McMasters-Carr. I don't have the ability to turn down the link so it could be threaded to fit the new joint. Might have to weld. Also, is that from an old catalog? What I find online their prices are about doubled. I find a drag link for a different Craftsman tractor online for $20 and I'd get two links from that. Sounds like best way out is buy that and cannibalize that link. That is if hammering on my orig. link doesn't tighten it up so it stays together.

 

[Craiger]

IT is a forged and heat treated end so your solution will not happen.
Been there done that

Look your end up from the table Star has posted and buy a replacement
Meaure the threads carefully because some mower tie rod ends are unique combinations of threads .

I don't think we are talking about the same thing. My original drag link is a solid steel rod 0.638" diameter with an integral ball joint in either end. The ball joints are not removable. That is why in my orig. post I put forth the thought of cutting the old joint off and welding on a replacement. I realize I need to preserve the original length to keep the steering setup the same. I tried to attach a pic of the failed drag link end but the site tells me the file is too large..

 

[StarTech]

You might be in a different area as those are my here in TN, USA

 

[bertsmobile1]

Ferret around the web
Down here there is a mob who lists on ebay from time selling drag links with std adjustable tie rod ends .
Those drag links are just short of being criminal .
And you still will no be able to centre punch the socket part to grip the ball again .

 

[Craiger]

Ferret around the web
Down here there is a mob who lists on ebay from time selling drag links with std adjustable tie rod ends .
Those drag links are just short of being criminal .
And you still will no be able to centre punch the socket part to grip the ball again .

Do you think heating up the socket end of the orig. link w. oxy-acetylene torch and cooling slowly might remove enough temper so I could use center punch to deform the socket to recapture the ball? I'm thinking nothing to lose except the cost of the gas if it didn't work.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Do you think heating up the socket end of the orig. link w. oxy-acetylene torch and cooling slowly might remove enough temper so I could use center punch to deform the socket to recapture the ball? I'm thinking nothing to lose except the cost of the gas if it didn't work.

without over heating the ball and affecting it's heat treatment or causing the socket to warp & go out of shape
You are dreaming .

 

[Craiger]

without over heating the ball and affecting it's heat treatment or causing the socket to warp & go out of shape
You are dreaming .

without over heating the ball and affecting it's heat treatment or causing the socket to warp & go out of shape
You are dreaming .

The ball fell out of the socket. How would heating the drag link rod affect the heat treatment of the ball when it sits on the workbench on other side of garage? My idea was to heat the rod. let it cool, then grease and reinsert the ball in socket and use a punch to hammer in on the edges of socket to keep the ball captured.