18hp Briggs Intek Twin Stator Regulator Charging problem - Melting multiple stators

[chuckles]

I went and testing it tonight but couldn't confirm the continuity test, no matter I'm convinced it's "cooked"
Just like someone else mentioned by the swelling and deforming of the case. Wish I knew what caused it but may never know. I do have a spare engine, it even runs and is better condition than the one I have installed now. Just didn't want to switch out until absolutely had too. May be getting closer to that day though.... thanks gang. Gonna order a used one tonight hopefully and I'll keep everyone posted how it goes. Fingers crossed I won't cook a third one.

 

[Tinkerer200]

there are many briggs engines in the bone yards, maybe you can find you a parts engine at a bone yard.

Yeah, good idea unfortunately the bone yards in our area no longer permit you in the gate unless you have junk for sale then only to dispose of it.

Walt Conner

 

[chuckles]

Yeah, cooked. One way to hold the flywheel as recommended by B&S is with a strap wrench. Another is to feed a ft. or so of soft rope, nylon for instance, into the spark plug hole as the piston is coming up half way or more on the compression stroke. Be sure about that or you may damage a valve, bend it. Leave enough rope out to retrieve it of course. Impact wrench, no.

Walt Conner

No luck at boneyard, only thing close was a 20hp vanguard (which I may check into as a full blown replacement if its still runs to put on the shelf for later), I did get a brand new B&S stator for $40 out the door from someone who bought it but ended up not needed. Ordered a new regulator for $20 as well for good measure. I also spoke with the head mechanic at my local B&S goldstar dealer who agreed that regulator was toasted and prob my problem. Said there's nothing else in that series of electrical components that should cause issue as long as my grounds are good, there isn't a shorted/cut wire and nothing is over drawing the system (like a bad electric PTO).

Parts should be here Wednesday and ill update everyone after that. could anyone elaborate more on how to do the rope trick? I get the just of putting rope in the spark plug hole but how do I decide which cylinder to use and confirm the compression stroke etc. Don't want to damage a valve or anything. Strap wrench on amazon is 30 bucks so I may look into that too but don't want to waste more money right now if I can help it and have other safe options or cant use the impact. Speaking of that, what damage could I guy do if using an impact and putting on to tight? Is stripping the threads the likely damage that would occur or can u damage the crank or something else like that just so I can learn and understand the inherent dangers of that method.

 

[Boobala]

No luck at boneyard, only thing close was a 20hp vanguard (which I may check into as a full blown replacement if its still runs to put on the shelf for later), I did get a brand new B&S stator for $40 out the door from someone who bought it but ended up not needed. Ordered a new regulator for $20 as well for good measure. I also spoke with the head mechanic at my local B&S goldstar dealer who agreed that regulator was toasted and prob my problem. Said there's nothing else in that series of electrical components that should cause issue as long as my grounds are good, there isn't a shorted/cut wire and nothing is over drawing the system (like a bad electric PTO).

Parts should be here Wednesday and ill update everyone after that. could anyone elaborate more on how to do the rope trick? I get the just of putting rope in the spark plug hole but how do I decide which cylinder to use and confirm the compression stroke etc. Don't want to damage a valve or anything. Strap wrench on amazon is 30 bucks so I may look into that too but don't want to waste more money right now if I can help it and have other safe options or cant use the impact. Speaking of that, what damage could I guy do if using an impact and putting on to tight? Is stripping the threads the likely damage that would occur or can u damage the crank or something else like that just so I can learn and understand the inherent dangers of that method.

Flywheel is put on with "torque-wrench" because the crank is a tapered fit, the keyway aligns the flywheel to the crank
for timing .. if ... say you hit an "immovable" object with the mower blade ... theory is the crank will stop instantly ... but the flywheel has tendency to keep going ..therefore shearing or damaging the keyway ... in essence saving the crank from bending/breaking OR so I've been told !!
the nut/bolt if overtightened would prevent that (theory) and if too loose it will (should) also shear the key

 

[Tinkerer200]

Plus you may want to remove the flywheel some day. Surely you can remove both spark plugs, remove one valve cover and tell when the piston is coming up on compression by watching the valve stems or not even remove the valve cover, turn the engine over by hand while sticking a finger in one plug hole and tell when it is trying to blow your finger back out. Doesn't matter which cylinder.

Walt Conner

 

[chuckles]

Ok thanks. I'm sure I can figure it out. Just don't want to risk damaging a valve was all. I did buy that big strap wrench today so I'll give that a try first once the parts arrive. The rope trick will be my back up. I gotta learn how to space the coil packs off the flywheel once I remove them right? Think I saw some videos using index cards. That correct?

 

[Boobala]

Ok thanks. I'm sure I can figure it out. Just don't want to risk damaging a valve was all. I did buy that big strap wrench today so I'll give that a try first once the parts arrive. The rope trick will be my back up. I gotta learn how to space the coil packs off the flywheel once I remove them right? Think I saw some videos using index cards. That correct?

A look at PAGE 2 in SECTION 2 ....... may be of use....Boobala

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6NaqjIxWV1ySkZjTTA5TGltZEE/view

 

[chuckles]

Thanks! Good info.