On the backside of fuel tank there's a dipped out area where the fuel line comes down from the top of the tank. The fuel tank is two parts. Do the fuel tanks leak very often where they're joined? I saw that the area where the fuel line goes through the dipped out place is where the leak is. (see picture) But I can't tell if it's the line or the tank. I did find what might be a pinhole in the fuel line. I'm going to replace part of the fuel line. I sincerely hope that is where the leak is cause it looks like removing the tank will be a pita. I was just checking to see if anybody's run across the same problem before. Thanks
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tom3
My L130 is some older than yours, 700 hrs. No leaks but I did replace the fuel line a couple years ago as a routine maintenance.
Yes the tanks do split .
And yes they are a PIA to remove.
The tank is made from strait HDPE and can easily be repaired using a hot air gun and some old milk bottle
Do some research on welding plastic on Face ache.
Ignore all of the rubbish about using zip ties and the such.
All thermo plastics weld easliy but only if the patch is the exact same plastic.
Yes the tanks do split .
And yes they are a PIA to remove.
The tank is made from strait HDPE and can easily be repaired using a hot air gun and some old milk bottle
Do some research on welding plastic on Face ache.
Ignore all of the rubbish about using zip ties and the such.
All thermo plastics weld easliy but only if the patch is the exact same plastic.
I got lucky. It was the fuel line. But it's good to know what kind of plastic it is and a good material for a repair. I'm an ex-bodyman and have repaired some plastics in the past. I think the repair will be easier than removing the tank. Maybe I'll never have to do it. Is this Bert from down under? Seems like we talked a couple of years ago. Probably when I pulled the rear end out of this thing and changed the oil in it. And it's working fine so far. Thanks for the info.
Yes, Same Bert
I had 3 of these tanks all go around the same time so I got good at it.
Not all that much of a problem to remove the tank if the dash can move far enough to allow the rear guard to slide out from under it
Takes me about 1.5 to 2 hours to get a tank out
When done pressurise to 10 PSI to check .
So you're saying to loosen the dash/cowl assy and then I guess do the same with rear body part and then there's enough room, hopefully, to get the tank out by lifting the body up. Does that sound right? Thanks for your help. Maybe it won't ever leak. I probably shouldn't have said that.?
Yep.
The rear guard is held down by 2 bolts inside the seat springs and 4 to 8 bolts that hold the dash down.
If the battery is under the dash then the battery carrier has to come out in order to get to the dash bolts.
Or if yours is a gravity tank behind the dash then it has to come out.
Loosen the dash bolts as far as you can then remove the seat bolts ( removing the seat gets rid of a lot of weight ) .
Then the rear guard can be raised just high enough to wiggle out out to the right .
Dozens of idiots on he web showing how you can just remove the spring bolts then lever the guard up.
However doing this will put creases in the foot boards which makes mowing very uncomfortable, but they don't show that.
