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A new Chinese carb might be 15 bucks. Not a new OEM JD.

How do you get a mower to back up with both front wheels "elevated"? What is 2H? Two hours? No need to abbreviate guy. Pushing keys on a keyboard doesn't cost anything. Read to yourself what you wrote to us. I'm lost......... Oh and welcome to the BEST mower forum on the net.

Take a cell phone picture prior to messing with the carb next time. FN mower guy in that video needs a tripod.

Download your engine manual. Read it. Look for the scheduled maintenance page. Look for cleaning cooling fins, de-carbonizing the cylinder/s and changing the oil.

2 amps or less for these small mower batteries.

I asked three local mower shops this very same question. They all said not us....... They said throw them in the garbage and get a longer lasting gas mower.

Do tell......

This is plenty. Also don't buy any other brand other than Battery Tender. I did and threw a few away from not working. Tried to save a couple bucks. Ended up costing more in the long run. Battery Tenders have never failed me.

Take the battery to an auto parts store. They will check it for free. They can fail at any time. Nice work on keeping a maintainer on it. Also remove the spark plug/s. Try cranking it over. Engine should rotate like a top. Shot in the dark, remove the oil dipstick. Smell for fuel. Could be...

Should be like 0.004" or 0.006", not 0.0004. Possible typo?? Makes a difference.

Mulching spreads weeds. Chokes the turf of water and nutrients. Long story is mulching came about as another way to sell a mower. Is it better than bagging? No. Bagging lifts the grass up for a better cut slash look. And those mulched clippings don't break down either. As in totally removed from...

Could be. I always use fuel stabilizer. Why? I forget how old my fuel is. Don't have to worry about old fuel anymore. My fuel doesn't get gummed up.

Supertech SAE 30w was or is rated at SG. Full of zinc and wonder no wear stuff. It's actually called off-highway oil.

All mine get cooked weekly. Still work like a new one. Matter of fact, this weekend, be doing some mo' cookin'. Follow your engine and or mower manuals for max revs.

Most pushers are 21" rated but not actually 21 or 22. They are say 20 and 3/4 or 7/8" for example. So slow down with the new buzz term of the day of blade tip speed. The grass police won't be by to arrest you.

3600 revs. Best cutting/bagging /mulching, best cooling and best lubrication. End of message.

That YOU picked up on. Reread what you typed and what I typed again. Let it fester a bit.

Usually, if it smokes on startup, it's valve seals and or guides. Smokes all the time, rings. Also be over filled with oil and several other tricks.

Yours and everyone else's engine manual states to de-carbon the cylinder/s and valves at x amount of time. They put it right next to cleaning the cooling fins YEARLY if not more often.

RTV? People, stop using RTV. They make proper gaskets that purposely fit your application. I so dislike tearing into someone else's mess having to dig all that silicone out. Just doubled the labor time. What you should do is lap that and every removed head and cyl deck surface prior to...

Amazon Chinese carb alert!!!!!!

Remember that is an aluminum block and manifold. Lock washers and thread lock goo might be useful. Think 15-20 ft lbs is a plenty. Go off what is in the engine manual for torque. I would spray the gasket with Permatex HI-Tack gasket sealer spray.

Think that is an air screw. Should be 1-1.5 turns out. Check your engine manual to be sure. Going off a weak memory LOL. Make sure the fuel pickup tube is not cracked. Also needs to be off the bottom of the tank a smidge. Newer carbs do not have any adjustment screws. Older ones did. Most...

I would check the carb intake manifold to block. Briggs uses really thick gasket like 3/16" or thicker there. Chinese Amazon/Ebay carbs come with half the thickness of a Briggs gasket. That is step 1. Step 2 is lap the intake manifold face and engine block areas. Every manifold I've seen is...

Any mice in your area?

On a 10 yo engine, I would clean the cooling fins first thing. Hard starting is either valves out of whack or clogged/dirty carb. Could be several other things. De-carbonize the cylinder as your engine manual states. Lap the cyl head flat with a piece of plate glass and 220-800 grit wet/dry...

Didn't pickup on a word I typed out. Good luck with it sir.

Take the starter apart. Clean the shaft the Bendix rides on. Polish her up good. Reinstall and test. This is the fastest fix for THIS issue. Could be something else causing this as others have said.

I've seen on a Simplicity mower a high mounted tank with an onboard pump on the Kroller engine. Not for nothing. OP has a Troy Bilt.

You should be running full throttle all the time. As in all the time. No reason to idle down a mower engine. Full revs for max cooling and lubrication. Also cuts and vacuums better.

Probably never had a coolant dump either. So how is the blade balance now? Rubbing can remove material. Bending blades can change things as well.

You said the blades come on okay. Then nothing happens, not sure what that means then engine dogs down. Confused.

Just a few off the top of my head. 1.Valve adjustment. 2.Low compression. 3.Weak spark. 4.Clogged/plugged air filter. 5.Dirty carb. 6.Bad deck bearings. 7.Bad deck pulleys. 8.Grass built up under the deck. 9.Deck is too low in the grass. 10.Tires are under inflated. Normal for this time of the...

Break out the shovels. Dig the sucker out.

To me, a crimp is no good unless you can slice it apart and see a solid blob of copper. Always like to add a dab of solder to the exposed copper on the connector for a 1-2 punch. I prefer soldering and marine grade heat shrinking with the adhesive goo inside it. Depends on what tools I have...

All the young people. Old timers never had this issue. They would walk the yard prior to mowing. Wisdom at it's best.

Never thought of that. Perfect sense.

LOOK at the threads. Use magnification if needed and good light.

Didn't read all this. Make you own tool to fit. This ain't the space program. Might visit a local school welding shop. Muffler shops can weld small projects. Have one at a muffler shop right now.

I would take a ratchet/socket yearly, check for head bolt snugness. Simple see if it turns from being loose. Not trying to apply much torque. Better yet the ol' torque wrench. Only takes two shakes of a lambs tail. Clean the cooling fins while you are at it. I know what cooling fins?

At least post a picture of the mowers. Maybe someone here can narrow it via visual ID. I agree, never seen any split electrodes in a mower engine. Must be those E3 racing plugs with an extra 75HP each.

Don't forget the under side of your mower decks. Right about now is great for them. Not many are cutting grass at the moment. Slather it on with an old paint brush.

Pull the oil stick. Smell for fuel. Wondering if you have a trickle of fuel getting into the cylinder causing hard starts. Should pump out with the plug/s out. Either you have compromised + and - cables, weak ground, weak starter or the same on the solenoid. Something is suspect. Didn't do...

Mix it 50/50 with Diesel or spray on direct to your wooden stockade fence. Excellent way to recycle used motor oil. 100 plus year old farmers trick. Do it to my fence every two years. Still looks like new from our 2017 install. Neighbors full cedar is looking rather weathered about now. Diesel...

Only flaw I've seen on that engine was lack of de-carbonizing the cylinder. That is the only way it will smoke and later fail. Chunks of carbon fall into the cylinder and lodge next to the rings scoring the bore.

Use the screen material to reinforce the area. My plastic welding kit has stainless screen mesh to beef up areas. I use zip ties on small cracked stuff for a filler. Fixed two trimmer tanks this way. Still not a leak.

Either valve adjustment if possible, weak/dead battery or corroded battery connectors. Clean and inspect the ground cable first. Do voltage drop tests with the circuit UNDER LOAD.