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Take your used oil from your car or truck. Pour into your mower.

What RPM was the engine ran at, ALL the time. Idle down for warm ups? Idle down for cool off's? Low RPM's to save gas?

Clean the battery post and the cable connector to fresh metal. Connect as normal. Then one can dope on grease or dielectric on the outside. Love that spray grease in a can for battery terminals. Keeps the corrosion away, for a little while.

Um, yes it will. While cranking, if the battery voltage drops to 10.5VDC or less, battery is toast. Or measured AT the starter while cranking, less than 10.5 VDC battery is bad.

Visually yes, bet it looked like a new baby calf. Thermally, no. All it did was mummy wrap the cooling fins killing cooling performance. Doesn't matter it if was silver or copper paint. Paint in itself encases things like a warm coat in winter. Think about it.

No. It will insulate the fins causing poor cooling and over heating. Not a good idea.

Pressure test the carb as well after overhauled.

Are you using marine grade 2 stroke oil? Stuff you put in a 2 stroke boat engine? OEM carb or Chinese Amazon carb? Most 2 strokes you crack the throttle while trying to start. And of course full choke. Try pouring some 50:1 2 cycle mix into the carb throat. Pull on the rope. If the engine...

Look at this first. Soft copper wires with probably a crimp connection joint = a recipe for disaster. All the engine vibes will kill a poorly terminated butt connection. Check continuity here.

Powerbuilt 1/2" Drive Impact Driver Kit

Air filter.

So true. That is why I used to preach about getting a new style EPA nozzle for your can. Those new spring loaded pain in the buttocks nozzles help keep the trash and water out.

Good product. I despise it for the next guy chipping away trying to remove it.

That is true if you use RTV on most formulas, not all. Read the directions on any sealant. Just to throw out another benefit. Form-a-Gasket is about 75% cheaper than any RTV. Another reason I use it. I'm a cheap azz.

What temp in F are you calling cold?

Who's turn was it to fly to his house and fix it for free? Star? Auto? Darn it guys........

So the manufacturer says LOL. Just like Briggs and their no oil changes. :rolleyes:(n) Lifetime grease, that was a good one.

Any extra add-on to an oiling system is a time b o m b. Fancy oil coolers. Cool two quart Chevy filter relocation kits. Cost me a new engine once. Pulled that mess off and went right in the trash. Never had another issue again.

Remember all circuits under test need to be fully current loaded. Not an accurate test if you have no current flowing.

REC 90 sounds like E-10 to me. I have no clue what you are using. Do you buy this at a lake or something? Farmers fuel pump? I hope they sell enough to keep fresh gas in their tanks. If not, be on the lookout for water in your tank and fuel can. Or stale fuel???

As Auto Doc was hitting at, at low revs, could be insufficient voltage to fully engage the PTO. (y) Makes total sense.

What ever the brand, needs a full pressure lube engine. If your mega mower wants to go swimming, means a steep slope. Splash lube is a no-no here.

Close the choke partially when it acts up. See if the engine smooths out. Try more and less choke to keep her running. To me this sounds like water in the gas. You mentioned you only use rec fuel. What is that? Reclaimed???? Reused?

Trick is a non hardening sealant. This stuff is great if YOU are the guy removing the cover next time. For valve covers and oil pans. Use in aviation and automotive apps. https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-coatings-sealants/gasket-sealants/permatex-form-a-gasket-no-2-sealant-3-oz/

These both require testing. New doesn't mean new anymore. Either lack of fuel or ignition is failing slash weak. Air, fuel, spark at the right time and compression. Find out what you are lacking.

Check the valves yearly for a good runner. Only takes about 3 minutes. I don't use RTV that's why so fast. RTV used you will be out there all day.

How many of those, are still in use?

Get an oil extractor. Forget all the valves mess (literally) and tipping pushers over. Forget crawling under the car.

Most circuits require a ground to pass current. Run a heavy gauge cable from reg to batt - terminal direct.

On the first mow.

It was no surprise the FRIEND couldn't find a problem. Nothing about anyone being silly. Hours mean zero in mowers. People can tear up an anvil in record time. Play is only one factor in bearings being good. See that CSI reference stuck. Good for ya'. Totally normal. Three blades and bearings...

No surprise. How about the spindle BEARINGS which the lawn crew owner, could not see, unless he gutted the spindles from the deck CSI style. With the belt off, do all the spindles rotate smoothly and silently? Should be more than enough if Kubota made it that way. Probably running on one...

I was digging the clean shaved head and the furry legs.

One would think the filter would catch all the break-in metal in the filter. Take the dumped oil out in the sun. You will see a pan full of metal flake. Talking new or freshly rebuilt engines.

So true so true......

I use drained car oil that looks new in my mowers. Then it goes on my wooden stockade fence. 3,000 miles in the car. 2 seasons in the mowers. 2 seasons on the fence.

Does everyone realize, that ol' wise tail about using synthetic oil after the break in only deal. That was 40 years ago. Even back then, I read about zero break in issues with synthetic oil on a new engine. Or any engine damage from using synthetic oil on a new engine or a rebuild. Many new...

How about checking the valve slop? Or is this some hydraulic lifter engine?

Boil clean the carb. Separate plastic and rubber parts from the carb body. Slow boil on a garage sale hot plate and pot. Little Pine Sol and water mix. Slow rolling boil for 45 minutes. Rod out and blow out with compressed air. Don't forget the pilot jet and those passages. Fuel lines...

These are yearly maintenance items that should be done for a good running mower. Most are in your engine manual.

yes

Dirty carb and or fuel system. Dry rotted fuel lines. Tank cap not venting. Trash in the tank and tank outlet. Possibles that are secondary items. Dead cellulose air filter restricting air flow. Water in the gas. Valves never inspected for proper lash. Cooling fins probably never cleaned.

Might pull the top engine cover off. Clean the cooling fins. Probably never been off the engine.

Nothing but Romper Room here fella. All you are doing is adding to the landfill every 2-4 years with your hazardous batteries. Most places that generate electricity use nuclear (real good for the environment), coal (another winner), crude oil (Arabs) or natural gas. The latter is probably the...

Fella, doesn't matter if you run Diesel or Coleman fuel. You will still get grass, bugs, dirt dobbers, leaves, grit, water and so on in the tank. Look in the bottom of your fuel can. Every fill you pass trash to the carb. With all the humidity in FL, carb is probably full of water.

Lack of water or mower deck issues?

Forget trying to rebuild.

Pull the fuel line off AT the carb inlet. Drain into a glass jar. Look for water in the bottom. Turn the key on if you have a fuel pump on the engine. Remove the carb bowl and dump out the contents. Any evidence of water, drain the entire system.

Sounds like a pusher. Did the blade brake die on you or what? This sounds like you need the non blade brake adapter IF this is what you are working with.

You can grab a ton of cheap pushers off facetrash marketplace. Either use the entire mower or rob the engine off one.