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Read everything about the linkage in the manual a couple times. Follow it word for word. It's not a simple turn this screw and all is grand kind of deal. You will see what I'm talking about.

We would think that one of these new mega dollar mower companies would make a bullet proof mower like the "old" Snappers for example. I honestly can't remember the last time my Snapper RER broke down. Only thing that comes to mind is it ran out of gas cutting the front yard a couple years ago.

All this water and trash is why I preach about the old open top vs new fuel can spouts. Hopefully the new style will slow down the water and debris ingress.

That is the sales pitch for mulching. Sell more things we don't really need. One big item you missed from your list. WEEDS also get "distributed" all over your lawn while mulching. I hate weeds......... Reason a good bagger creates the best visible cut. Not to mention all that cutting debris...

And you have to store this contraption when no using.

Agree with Auto Doc's. There are cheaper tools out there than the below one. IMO, that is the best out there.

Remove the battery from the mower. Take inside and place on a Battery Tender till spring.

So will WD-40. Blow the bendix out with shop air and safety glasses. See if it will go up and down with gentle persuasion. I wouldn't spray any form of oil there. OR, worse case, hit it with silicone spray then blast it well with air. Dry it off with a clean red rag.

Apply the choke slowly. See if she smooths out near full choke. Would do a full fuel delivery clean/refresh. Super clean the tank. New fuel line all the way to the carb. Make sure you have a solid flow AT the carb inlet. Drain the fuel into a glass jar looking for water or trash. Bet you have...

Might check this out.

Most people pressure test the needle/seat. Would hope it held with vacuum. Pressure test at 7psi for 30+ minutes for a successful confirmation. Also when doing this test, needle needs to be wet. As in spray some PB mega spray on it then test.

All I know, which is NOT MUCH, all the engine manufactures state to run at max revs all the time. Provides max lubrication, cooling and engine longevity. These are not car engines. Especially splash lube engines. Idle down and kill all the lube and cooling.

Amen.

Heard some charge say $25,000 a day for storage. Your shop, you set the fee. Throw a lien on his house. What are they called a mechanics lien? Can't believe all that SAND that came out of the oil sump. Some people..........

Pull all rubber and plastic out of the carb. Let the solution just simmer boil for an hour. Really works on the older stubborn ones like the pulsa-jets and such. Most ultra sonics don't get hot enough in my opinion. Most just get up to temp as the cleaning cycle comes to the end.

Remember to dunk the line in water. Keeps it more resilient and stronger. Nylon line just like fishing line dries out over time. Helps keep the curling out of the line as well.

Nice tool but not really needed. Turn engine where both valves are closed. Set gap to factory specs. Used a non-hardening sealant on the valve cover. The next guy will kiss you on the mouth for this step.

What rpm do you run it at? Do you idle it around the yard to save gas? Maybe easier on the engine?

Lack of maintenance ma-ma', lack of maintenance.

No no no, we are all getting rich now because of the tariffs. I know you just bought half of the State of California with your check LOL. :p

I feel heat is the key to a good cleaning. Helps the degreaser to perform better. I use a cheap hot plate and a garage sale pot. All under 5-10 bucks worth on facetrash marketplace. Used to use Pine-Sol. It's all chemical now as Clorox reformulated Pine-Sol. Doesn't clean like the old real...

You need to pressure test the carb needle/seat. Should hold 7psi for 30+ minutes. Many a video on youtube about this testing procedure. Auto Doc is right about your pump. Possible over pressure blowing the needle off the seat. Typically most carbs with pumps, 3.5 psi is plenty of pressure. I...

Here's another one. Maybe yours is water cooled with a full pressure lube oil pump??

Idling down produces LESS air flow to cool the engine. Also not recommended by any engine manufacturer to do this. All state to run at max revs all the time for max cooling, lubrication and longevity.

Funny how the acetone and Kroil did the worst. Unless there is some void that allows the miracle juice to penetrate the threads, no spray on Earth will help. A nut and stud rusted over lacks these voids. Saying that, I still fog it down usually waiting a couple weeks to allow the "wonder...

I've had good luck with Chi-sneeze carbs. If you buy the cheapest ad on say Ebay, buyer beware. I buy the ad that is says 15 to 20 bucks over the cheapest ad listing. Don't know why but I've had less trouble. I do gut them making sure the float level is spot on, needle seals and such. Make...

Drain it and fill with 2 stroke mix. Run it a bit and store over winter. Never had any issues with Stabil. Use it year-round. Never have to remember how old my fuel is.

Never a concern about getting all the break-in metal out. Every new or rebuilt engine will have a ton of metal flake in the sump.

Those tariffs haven't kicked in yet?? Let me make a couple calls. Was told we were all going to be rich soon.

Finally a mention about where all this starts at. Do you have an old gas can with an open spout? Or a new can with the EPA struggle your azz off trying to fill a mower up spout?

Makes total sense. Funny thing is when they DID have it on the shelf, my store was a gamble if they had any left or not. Usually had to go on the weekday and get some. Weekends the shelves get raped.

Straight 30 is way thicker than a 5w or a 10w. Thinner oil is for cold temps.

Best hydro trans is none of them. Belt drive is way cheaper and easier to maintain slash keeping your mower/s running.

(y)

Crickets.............

Pull the plug. Pull starter rope several brisk times. See if fuel or water blow out the plug hole. Install plug. Couple shots of flammable spray into the carburetor. Choke closed. Pull starter rope. Could be carb needle sticking open flooding it out. Old fuel, water in the gas. You need...

It was a serious question. Wondering if he lugged it around the yard every mow killing the cooling and lubrication. Fully agree, not the space shuttle LOL. :geek: (y):ROFLMAO:

Just pull the carb inlet hose. Drain into a glass jar. Look for water in the bottom. If the tank is full get a can ready to take the excess. Dump carb bowl. Blow carb body out with shop air and SAFETY GLASSES.

Agree with Star. Warranty the sucker. Or pull the battery and test at an auto parts store for free. Maybe just a bad one. These mowers can sit for months on end with no charger till they sell.

And push rod lengths.

I would pull the tank and carb. Hit the tank with rust converter, primer then paint externally. Internally do the motorcycle cream liners to seal it up. Keep the carb clean. Getting at those parts and many more for that excellent engine are no longer made. Same for the muffler, converter, prime...

Shame a perfectly good engine is now trash due to complete and total laziness. Rest of the mower is probably not far behind. Lucky this "had" hydraulic lifters. Was going to say the valves probably never been checked. Maybe the guy thought he had a Briggs never change the oil engine on it???? LOL

Wow, isn't that a full oil change? Or was ran with no oil prior? Amazing.......

Bought the very same oil last time. Like 6 bucks more per gallon over Supertech. Might be going to 15w-40 for the mowers if wally's pulled the SAE 30w gallons off the shelf. That Shell stuff isn't even synthetic. Not that it really matters in a mower.

Range of viscosity at 32F. The 30 on the above spec is the viscosity range at 212F.

On a walmart search, only thing that pops up is their bar and chain oil in 30w. I don't want that. Guess they quit selling it. They DO have SAE 30w in the quart size.

Either they are sold out or two of my local walmarts are out of the gallon of SAE 30w single grade oil. Wondering if they are dropping it from the shelves. Noticed another web site has it with free shipping...

While we are on this education assistance..... Love it (y) What does the 10 in 10w-30 stand for?

Bingo was his name O.

Take your used oil from your car or truck. Pour into your mower.