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If you can buy a carburetor for less than the cost of a float valve, $18, I would be leery. Also, there is no FS548V engine. FS541V maybe?

Check the short pulse line to the fuel pump. If there is evidence of fuel in the tube, the diaphragm is ruptured. Otherwise replace the float valve. No need to replace the carburetor.

A FH430V S04 would have had a carb solenoid originally.

Kawasaki does not have carburetor kits for FH model engines. Most parts are sold Individually. Some may be a 5 pack.

11060-7008 is the correct gasket. No orings, no sealant. @StarTech is correct that the gasket is also a shim and must be used. Also, don't forget the washer that sits on the snap ring at the end of the camshaft.

There is not pressurized oil to the valve train. This area relies on splash or windage lubrication.

Thank you for being a helpful neighbor! When was the last time this engine has run well? This is a Husqvarna lawn tractor application? Based on what you wrote, the carburetor likely needs a good cleaning. The intake valves might also be gummed up from the fuel not being fresh for who knows how...

Does anyone have and can post the Kohler training bulletin showing costs and locations? Thank you

The fuel pump is vacuum operated. The fuel filter does not need to be full of fuel. Fuel just needs to be flowing. Remove the fuel line from the carburetor and check.

Today’s carburetors are not adjustable for fuel mixture (EPA regs). Possibly the wrong carburetor, i.e., aftermarket. Dirty carburetor or choke not adjusted properly. Running rich will make the spark plugs appear to be sooty. The soot is unburned fuel.

Some FH engines are still being produced as replacement engines. The FH601V is not being produced but might be able to be replaced with an FH680V or FH721V. Same engine, just a little more horsepower out of each. If the crankshaft is a genuine Kawasaki part, it can be returned but there may be a...

The crankcase bushings are listed in some illustrated parts lists with a part number as it is a “part” of the engine. However, the bushing was not intended to be a replacement part as they are pressed in to the crankcase and crankcase cover during assembly. There is no repair procedure for...

You are correct. The 726cc engines originally showed 11ft-lb of torque on the bracket bolt. All other engines using this design was 15ft-lb. The spec is now 15ft-lb. Align the bracket, torque the bolt, add a drop of green Loctite. Good to go.

The “tiny stud” is there for assembly purposes only. That and the cut out in the bracket show the line worker how the brackets fits. That’s all. It is the bolt torque that holds the bracket, not the casting.

That engine/drivetrain was specific to John Deere and the information is exclusive to John Deere. The manual would have had resistance tests in analog readings, and for the most part are irrelevant. If the high tension lead and spark plug boot are not damaged, either there is spark or there...

Not necessary to drain the engine oil. Just replace whatever does leak out. You should perform a governor adjustment a “realignment” does not always work. Adjustment is a simple process. Loose the pinch bolt on the governor arm. There is a hole drilled in the end of the governor shaft. Use a...

The 92049-7019 should be red or rust color. The original on older engines was black (92049-7005). Don't accept that seal. It will work but that is the one that leaks all the time.

That is the correct part number for the seal. All Kawasaki engines use this part. It is best to reset the governor according to the service manual. The procedure is very easy to perform.

Is the puller a beam style like pictured? Or more of a jaw type? A jaw puller my not exert enough force vertically.

You are correct. Towards the outside of the crank web.

There are two indentations casted into the side of the flywheel. To do it properly, you will use a two jaw puller. You could probably borrow one from auto zone or similar. Make sure you put a washer on top of the crankshaft to protect the bolt theads.

For the starter drive, I just use carb or brake cleaner. For the rest of the engine, degreaser. The breather cover is the plate under the flywheel.

You could try cleaning between the metal drive nut and the rubber friction washer on the bottom of the bendix. Lilkely caked up with the same oily debris that is covering the engine. This would cause it to slip. If not, may need to replace the starter. The oil leak may be the crankshaft seal or...

My apologies to all that a piece of dirt on my screen made “seals” look like “seats”. @StarTech, you are full of yourself and very unprofessional. Your last post proved that.

Valve seats are not a service part offered from Kawasaki and are not replaceable. Though, check with StarTech, I’m sure he can make some from an old piece of pipe.

@StarTech you are stuck in the 1970’s. Drilling out jets is to compensate for you not knowing how to properly diagnose and repair the issue.

There is no adjustment for that. Either there is a welch plug missing, as referenced in the above picture as 92066 or there is junk in the fuel system or a slight air leak somewhere.

The compression release mechanism is part of the camshaft assembly. Not likely the cause for low compression. Common causes of low compression are stuck valves or worn rings/cylinders from dirt ingestion.

If BS is what I think it is, how professional. These screws are idle port mixture screws, both flow fuel at both low and high idle. They are covered by a welch plug for a reason as they are set by the carburetor manufacturer and are not intended for "tuning". The only low speed adjustment is for...

There is no low speed adjustment. You can adjust the carbureted low idle. And the governed low idle. EPA does not allow adjustable jets.

Likely, if it were something mechanical it wouldn’t take 10 minutes for it to begin to do it. If choke helps, this is because the choke is enrichment the air/fuel mixture enough to keep it running. I believe it might be an air leak that is revealing itself once the engine gets to operating temp...

If it’s not fuel or fuel flow related, then likely an air leak. Try spraying carb cleaner around the intake gaskets, manifold and insulator. Likely you either have a lot of money or are buying aftermarket carburetors. The original is likely fine unless it is corroded, broke or missing a part...

As Rivets suggested or there is a fuel restriction somewhere. Will it start right back up and run good again for a period of time?

15 hp means nothing. I can think of at least three Kawasaki 15 hp models.

What engine model?

Engines that are getting fuel, spark and compression don’t just quit and not restart. So, my thought then is you have a valve train issue. Check for bent or dropped pushrod(s) or stuck valves. This is what I would check next.

Have you confirmed fuel flow to the carburetor? Checked the float/float valve for sticking?

Valve adjustment is not likely the issue. My guess would be poor fuel possibly sticking the fuel solenoid at the bottom of the carburetor. Running the engine at low rpm is not good for the engine. it is an air cooled engine. By not running at full rpm (rabbit position) is causing the fan to not...

Does applying choke help? Fuel system issue Can you control the surge by grabbing the throttle shaft? Governor adjustment / wear issue

And, you are correct. The idle port screw does not do anything. That is why it is sealed off. If you had an air/fuel meter you might see a difference. But not run-ability wise.

Are the other two Welch plugs still on the top? One larger, one smaller.

These are idle port screws. They provide air/fuel at low throttle angle but are continuing to provide air/fuel as well at high throttle angle. Backing them out would provide slightly more air/fuel. This doesn't match up with a previously reported rich (fuel smell) condition. Typically you...

The carburetor style is correct. I agree it is not genuine Kawasaki as the numbers would be as pictured below. So, who know what jetting this carburetor has. That could be an issue. What do your spark plugs look like after running in this condition? Are they black with dry soot? You had the...

Ok, if it isn’t Nikki brand or doesn’t have a Kawasaki part number on it, also please check to see if it has a vent tube next to the fuel line inlet.

Hi Tom, Can you confirm the part number of the carburetor? If it is genuine Kawasaki, it will have the part number on top and will start out 15003 or 15004.

I’m not stating that they can’t be filed. Kawasaki doesn’t have a procedure for filing them. It’s a lawnmower engine, not NASCAR.

This set is .020 oversized from the original. They are not file to fit. The top ring is barrel faced the second should be tapered. The paint stripe typically will go to the right of the ring gap on a tapered ring to help with the orientation.

Ah, I for sure misunderstood. Sorry. Could be a switch or a loose connection in the ignition or ground circuit.

My thought is trash in the fuel tank. Try to rig a way to gravity fresh fuel directly to the carburetor. Then see if the issue still occurs.

Ok, that makes sense except the vent hose is exactly that, an atmospheric vent. There should not be fuel in the vent unless there is an issue with the float valve sealing causing the bowl to overflow, as an example. You are correct that the rad screen will not offer much protection. Its purpose...