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I read that the video was not your mower. I apologize for assuming that you were having a similar issue.

The governor bolt was stripped because it has left-handed thread. The person who tried to loosen it turned it the wrong way. Very common error. The governor's ball guide is likely damaged, which is why the RPMs are creeping. Two pins on the back of the guide keep the guide at the same speed as...

The gaskets are installed dry from the factory. No need for sealant,

No igniter.

FD731VAS09 was actually on Bad Boy mowers

I appreciate that, sir.

Absolutely sure. This unneeded element is inside the crankcase. Its purpose was to help separate air and oil droplets, keeping the oil in the engine while letting the air out of the crankcase. Has nothing to do with the engines outside environment.

Can a coil fail? Sure. It is common for both coils to fail, not likely. That is why I suggested removing the ground wire from both coils to see if either has spark.

The coils are best tested for spark while on the engine. You can use a running (lightbulb) spark tester easily to see if the coils are doing anything. A gap-type tester (pictured) is best for loading the coil. The SE line is for "small engine" or about 1/4" gap. Don't hook the ground wire to the...

Glad I could help.

The black oil may be temporarily ok as long as the oil level is not over full. You may smell fuel out the exhaust as at operating temp, some of those hydrocarbons will burn off.

The only thing I do know about aftermarket carburetors is that usually they don't work well. What is the problem with the original carburetor? The Nikki carburetor has transition ports that provide enough fuel during the transition from low to high idle. Maybe the aftermarket carburetor does not...

So at high idle under load is sounds good? WOT on a governed engine is when the engine is under heavy load and losing RPM. If the engine runs fine with the PTO engaged, then the idle jet likely is incorrect for this engine or debris in the idle circuit. The engine has no purpose at mid-throttle...

When it is surging, if you slowly apply the choke, does it tend to want to smooth out? How does it run at full throttle?

Great job finding that. I have heard of those pests causing issues before. Glad you got it fixed up. Thank you for reporting back.

Where are you measuring the DC output? If at the B+ terminal of the regulator, then you should have at least battery voltage. Do you even have power to the regulator?

The breather filter is not necessary and should be discarded if you get in there.

Pressure release from the crankcase when the engine is stopped? If so, the crankcase may not be venting through the breather system. The reed valve might be stuck. This would prevent fuel pump operation resulting in not being able to keep the engine running. Black oil is caused by blow-by of...

Likely the compression release might be hanging up or the valves need to be adjusted. The compression release mechanism is on the camshaft. Typically they are no issue but there is a spring that may be damaged or some other issue due to wear and tear over the years.

If you have over 100psi compression, that is fine. It appears that the valve guide has slid due to the cylinder being overheated. Both heads should look the same. The loosening of the rocker bracket bolt is also likely heat related. This could cause a bent push rod but would not contribute to...

The proper thing to do is to remove the fan housing/fuel tank. There is an o-ring at the top of the intake pipe. If it is compromised by pulling the intake pipe away to slip the carburetor back in, you could possibly get dirt ingestion. Also would be a good time to inspect and replace the...

There are no short blocks for FH601D (air cooled) or FD620D (liquid cooled) available directly from Kawasaki.

Unfortunately, there is no fix. An extremely talented machinist would argue that they could repair this, but it is not worth the effort. A replacement crankcase or replacement engine would be the best option.

If you can buy a carburetor for less than the cost of a float valve, $18, I would be leery. Also, there is no FS548V engine. FS541V maybe?

Check the short pulse line to the fuel pump. If there is evidence of fuel in the tube, the diaphragm is ruptured. Otherwise replace the float valve. No need to replace the carburetor.

A FH430V S04 would have had a carb solenoid originally.

Kawasaki does not have carburetor kits for FH model engines. Most parts are sold Individually. Some may be a 5 pack.

11060-7008 is the correct gasket. No orings, no sealant. @StarTech is correct that the gasket is also a shim and must be used. Also, don't forget the washer that sits on the snap ring at the end of the camshaft.

There is not pressurized oil to the valve train. This area relies on splash or windage lubrication.

Thank you for being a helpful neighbor! When was the last time this engine has run well? This is a Husqvarna lawn tractor application? Based on what you wrote, the carburetor likely needs a good cleaning. The intake valves might also be gummed up from the fuel not being fresh for who knows how...

Does anyone have and can post the Kohler training bulletin showing costs and locations? Thank you

The fuel pump is vacuum operated. The fuel filter does not need to be full of fuel. Fuel just needs to be flowing. Remove the fuel line from the carburetor and check.

Today’s carburetors are not adjustable for fuel mixture (EPA regs). Possibly the wrong carburetor, i.e., aftermarket. Dirty carburetor or choke not adjusted properly. Running rich will make the spark plugs appear to be sooty. The soot is unburned fuel.

Some FH engines are still being produced as replacement engines. The FH601V is not being produced but might be able to be replaced with an FH680V or FH721V. Same engine, just a little more horsepower out of each. If the crankshaft is a genuine Kawasaki part, it can be returned but there may be a...

The crankcase bushings are listed in some illustrated parts lists with a part number as it is a “part” of the engine. However, the bushing was not intended to be a replacement part as they are pressed in to the crankcase and crankcase cover during assembly. There is no repair procedure for...

You are correct. The 726cc engines originally showed 11ft-lb of torque on the bracket bolt. All other engines using this design was 15ft-lb. The spec is now 15ft-lb. Align the bracket, torque the bolt, add a drop of green Loctite. Good to go.

The “tiny stud” is there for assembly purposes only. That and the cut out in the bracket show the line worker how the brackets fits. That’s all. It is the bolt torque that holds the bracket, not the casting.

That engine/drivetrain was specific to John Deere and the information is exclusive to John Deere. The manual would have had resistance tests in analog readings, and for the most part are irrelevant. If the high tension lead and spark plug boot are not damaged, either there is spark or there...

Not necessary to drain the engine oil. Just replace whatever does leak out. You should perform a governor adjustment a “realignment” does not always work. Adjustment is a simple process. Loose the pinch bolt on the governor arm. There is a hole drilled in the end of the governor shaft. Use a...

The 92049-7019 should be red or rust color. The original on older engines was black (92049-7005). Don't accept that seal. It will work but that is the one that leaks all the time.

That is the correct part number for the seal. All Kawasaki engines use this part. It is best to reset the governor according to the service manual. The procedure is very easy to perform.

Is the puller a beam style like pictured? Or more of a jaw type? A jaw puller my not exert enough force vertically.

You are correct. Towards the outside of the crank web.

There are two indentations casted into the side of the flywheel. To do it properly, you will use a two jaw puller. You could probably borrow one from auto zone or similar. Make sure you put a washer on top of the crankshaft to protect the bolt theads.

For the starter drive, I just use carb or brake cleaner. For the rest of the engine, degreaser. The breather cover is the plate under the flywheel.

You could try cleaning between the metal drive nut and the rubber friction washer on the bottom of the bendix. Lilkely caked up with the same oily debris that is covering the engine. This would cause it to slip. If not, may need to replace the starter. The oil leak may be the crankshaft seal or...

My apologies to all that a piece of dirt on my screen made “seals” look like “seats”. @StarTech, you are full of yourself and very unprofessional. Your last post proved that.

Valve seats are not a service part offered from Kawasaki and are not replaceable. Though, check with StarTech, I’m sure he can make some from an old piece of pipe.

@StarTech you are stuck in the 1970’s. Drilling out jets is to compensate for you not knowing how to properly diagnose and repair the issue.