Search results

What's the engine model? Check and see if you are getting 12v to the control wire at the base of the solenoid, if you are check for 12v on the starter side of solenoid.

The B&S engine you have uses an OEM head gasket P/N-273280S or after market equal to it Rotary P/N-11071 or Stens P/N-465-043. We have them in stock.

I think you you have a head gasket starting to blow thru.

When it shuts off the first thing I would do is check for spark on the ignition coils and second see if the fuel solenoid piston is pulling down and staying down as long as power is applied.

My thoughts go a weak ignition coil or fuel solenoid, i'd suggest when it shuts off check the plug wire for spark and see if the fuel solenoid is pulling the plunger down.

As several have said there appears to be some misalignment causing a lot of pressure on the belt or something is rubbing the belt.

A simple oil drain tool is a large syringe with a piece of tubing on it, not fancy but works.

What are the moisture conditions when you mow? If the grass or ground has much moisture in it this also will contribute to plugging, and I agree with other the high lift is the way to go for bagging. Good luck.

As someone has said if your parts we're internet purchase only a few have any quality control, be suspect of them all.

That's what comes typically comes with enternet aftermarket carbs, another problem. Buy one from someone who has some quality control.

Yes sir you do need blades if you what cut the grass instead of tearing it off, you might look for a lower lift blade if available they will hold up some what longer mowing in sandy conditions.

Remove the gas cap and see if it stops leaking, it may be the cap vent is plugged up.

Many fuel tanks have rubber grometts in the bottom is that where it's leaking or up on the side?

Use a good construction adhesive.

Was it an OEM carb?

If you can a replacement pulley take an grinder and cut thru the belt portion of the pulley and finish it off with a dremel type tool.

Take it back to the dealer and get it addressed and document what happen is case it happens again.

What engine is on it ?

Question, have checked the voltage coming out of the stator / alternator and out of the voltage regulator?

I'm here in central Florida with similar humidity and many homeowners leave their mowers outside I don't think the humidity is your issue I think product quality, we sell OEM coil when we can and have few problems.

What's the actual model and serial # from under the seat ?

Have you checked to see if you are getting 12vdc to your start solenoid when the key is turned to start? If not you have a bad ignition switch or wiring issue, if you are getting voltage to solenoid and it is engaging you have bad contacts in the solenoid.

Many modern day engines on walk behind mowers don't have manual throttles, and may or may not have adjustments on the carb.

You might look at the B&S # 591378 Carb used on the models 204412 & 204432 10HP engines or the aftermarket version Stens # 520-005.

Check your safety switches.

Many of the steel pulleys are American made sold by both OEM and aftermarket suppliers, not all but many, but generally a bearing will fail long before the pulley will split.

Rickin, I don't think your blades are the problem those blades are designed for mulching and bagging that work better at mulching because they don't have a real high lift because of the serations used for mulching, try this slow your travel speed down some and keep the engine / deck speed up...

Sounds like you have a compromised head gasket.

With this carb setup it's really hard to get gas back into the crankcase oil, i'm wondering if you might have a fuel cap that the vent is plugged over pressuring the tank forcing gas out and into crankcase, just my 2 cents.

Appears that the P/N-532448354 hasn't been available since 2022, but the OEM Tuff Torq #7A646084091 is available.

These wheels are xtremley hard to get off, many times the axle will pull out of the transmission before the axle will break loose from the hub, your best chance is to heat the hub area really hot and quinch with water, doing this you also run the risk of over heating the transmission seal. Good...

Have you replaced the fuel pump gasket and diaphrgam ?

OldDiyer, If you can find someone who doesn't stock there batteries with acid in them while on the shelf they will last longer.

Deere shows this is not a timed deck, you may have a deck that's warped or bent.

Rivets, they are part of the ignition circuit.

lefty2cox, This B&S engine is xtremley hard to start if the valves are out of adjustment or if the camshaft is bad, take the spark plug out and try it if it turns over good reset the valves if it doesn't electrical issue and has the battery recently been changed, it's a DC motor so it will spin...

PS: Your safety sensors are not part of the starter circuit, if they are bad it should turn over but not have any fire to the plug.

Engine207, If you have a DC voltage tester, check for power to your solenoid control wire and to the battery terminal to the starter when you turn the key on, if you have power to control wire and not to starter you got a bad solenoid, if you have power to starter and it only hums you got a bad...

POPS52, Can you tell by looking at the PTO clutch if it is adjustable, it will have a triangle shaped flange with a bolt in each corner, if so you might tweek each bolt slightly to close the tolerance on the clutch magnet, check for extremly worn belts. Good luck.

JohnnyCanuck, Bert's right the main jet o-ring is very problematic replace it with a Kawasaki #92055-7013 (B&S) doesn't sell them except on the main jet, you might take a close look at the float needle if it's grooved or torn replace it and bowl gasket and you should be good to go. And use...

Basadict69, double check that belt and make sure it's a "double v belt" P/N-07200026 or equal 265-518 Stens, also make sure all the idler pulleys are v idlers not flat idlers, once you get the pulley turned over.