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If you can a replacement pulley take an grinder and cut thru the belt portion of the pulley and finish it off with a dremel type tool.

Take it back to the dealer and get it addressed and document what happen is case it happens again.

What engine is on it ?

Question, have checked the voltage coming out of the stator / alternator and out of the voltage regulator?

I'm here in central Florida with similar humidity and many homeowners leave their mowers outside I don't think the humidity is your issue I think product quality, we sell OEM coil when we can and have few problems.

What's the actual model and serial # from under the seat ?

Have you checked to see if you are getting 12vdc to your start solenoid when the key is turned to start? If not you have a bad ignition switch or wiring issue, if you are getting voltage to solenoid and it is engaging you have bad contacts in the solenoid.

Many modern day engines on walk behind mowers don't have manual throttles, and may or may not have adjustments on the carb.

You might look at the B&S # 591378 Carb used on the models 204412 & 204432 10HP engines or the aftermarket version Stens # 520-005.

Check your safety switches.

Many of the steel pulleys are American made sold by both OEM and aftermarket suppliers, not all but many, but generally a bearing will fail long before the pulley will split.

Rickin, I don't think your blades are the problem those blades are designed for mulching and bagging that work better at mulching because they don't have a real high lift because of the serations used for mulching, try this slow your travel speed down some and keep the engine / deck speed up...

Sounds like you have a compromised head gasket.

With this carb setup it's really hard to get gas back into the crankcase oil, i'm wondering if you might have a fuel cap that the vent is plugged over pressuring the tank forcing gas out and into crankcase, just my 2 cents.

Appears that the P/N-532448354 hasn't been available since 2022, but the OEM Tuff Torq #7A646084091 is available.

These wheels are xtremley hard to get off, many times the axle will pull out of the transmission before the axle will break loose from the hub, your best chance is to heat the hub area really hot and quinch with water, doing this you also run the risk of over heating the transmission seal. Good...

Have you replaced the fuel pump gasket and diaphrgam ?

OldDiyer, If you can find someone who doesn't stock there batteries with acid in them while on the shelf they will last longer.

Deere shows this is not a timed deck, you may have a deck that's warped or bent.

Rivets, they are part of the ignition circuit.

lefty2cox, This B&S engine is xtremley hard to start if the valves are out of adjustment or if the camshaft is bad, take the spark plug out and try it if it turns over good reset the valves if it doesn't electrical issue and has the battery recently been changed, it's a DC motor so it will spin...

PS: Your safety sensors are not part of the starter circuit, if they are bad it should turn over but not have any fire to the plug.

Engine207, If you have a DC voltage tester, check for power to your solenoid control wire and to the battery terminal to the starter when you turn the key on, if you have power to control wire and not to starter you got a bad solenoid, if you have power to starter and it only hums you got a bad...

POPS52, Can you tell by looking at the PTO clutch if it is adjustable, it will have a triangle shaped flange with a bolt in each corner, if so you might tweek each bolt slightly to close the tolerance on the clutch magnet, check for extremly worn belts. Good luck.

JohnnyCanuck, Bert's right the main jet o-ring is very problematic replace it with a Kawasaki #92055-7013 (B&S) doesn't sell them except on the main jet, you might take a close look at the float needle if it's grooved or torn replace it and bowl gasket and you should be good to go. And use...

Basadict69, double check that belt and make sure it's a "double v belt" P/N-07200026 or equal 265-518 Stens, also make sure all the idler pulleys are v idlers not flat idlers, once you get the pulley turned over.

Digiacomo, if the picture of the H pattern is what have and a 42" cut your blades (new) will be 21 3/16" measured diagonally, yours maybe a little shorter because of wear, the Rotary # 1031 is a straight cut and # 1032 mulching blade.

It's the luck of the draw on a Amazon / Ebay product there's no quality control, doesn't seem to be an actual cross to a decent after market carb, but there are some that might work. Good luck

Change the oil (20w50) synthetic oil and filters and ward off buying an expensive hydro pump/

If it's a single cylinder B&S reset the valves and try it if it still doesn't turn over good it could be a broken decompression spring on the camshaft and would need to be replaced. Good luck/

Once you get valves set right, intake .003-.005 and exhaust .005-.007 try it if still to much you may have a bad decompression release requiring a camshaft replacement.

Have you isolated your safety system from the ignition system ?

If you have a Nikki carb on it you may have a main jet loose or leaking fuel around the oring.

RichF28 the B&S single cylinder OHV engines are notorious for being hard to start when the valves get out of adjustment or the decompression release fails to work. Simple test take the spark plug out put some thing over plug wire so the spark won't ignite any gas, then sit in the seat and turn...

B&S shows P/N-807986 for before 96 and P/N-806085S after 96.

That's not the P/N i'm coming up with, are you sure it's right?

P/N has superceded to a 589813201 appears to come with the control handles and a steel z bend. Appears it's a HOP part not used on Poulan.

Should be a P/N-587420001

F56JCW If you are using an gas containing ethanol it will basically be of no use in small engines after a couple of months and in a vented fuel system will absorb a lot of moisture( water), use non-ethanol gas if available.

Jerry don't waste your money on a carb kit until you know you need it, that engine by the code date should have a Walbro carb., but double check and make sure it's not the Nikki. Also spray some starting fluid or Deep Creep into the intake and see if it will start, if not it may not be a fuel...

Jonnie you commented that you blew out the orifices in the carb, you won't get out what you need to get out by just blowing air in it, in fact you may make it even worse, you have a restriction somewhere in the body of the carb soak it carb/ parts cleaner or use a hydro sonic cleaner.

Disconnect the wire from the kill switch and try it.

Good afternoon folks just wanted to say hello as new member to the forum, i own and run a lawnmower and parts only business i central Florida, i'm no mower mechanic but i get to see a lot of broken parts and here some tall tales about those parts so i hope to be able to help you. Have a Merry...