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It's a page from the owners manual I downloaded at https://www.searspartsdirect.com

Seems to match pretty good to me.

My experience is a carb cleaning is usually necessary after running out of fuel. A quick test wouldn't hurt. Unplug the PTO at the connector closest to the PTO and then try and turn on the PTO and see if the engine still stalls. If it stalls you know that it's a issue in the safety system, if...

If you just ran it out of gas before the problem started I would think you sucked some gunk up into the carb. I would start with cleaning the carb.

This style stator brake was most likely rushed out to meet new safety standards, stopping the blades faster when the safety switches cut the engine. The OP is now finding out why newer version of this have their own winding on the stator for the brake. I'm betting the relay failed while he was...

Here is a schematic that includes a startor brake. The model number you listed doesn't seem to include one in it's schematic, maybe there was an engine or wiring harness swap in its past.

It's probably a stater brake designed stop the engine quicker when powered off. They were fairly common on these kohler equipped craftsmans of this era.

The belt you want is part # 532140218 (1/2" x 84.5")

You seem to have posted the wrong model number, or sears is giving use the wrong one for that number because it doesn't match the pic at all. There is no adjustment for the clutch on those. If it is still running the trans with the clutch pushed the only thing I can think would be a belt that...

I would check the valve lash before condemning the starter. Sounds like it's out of spec causing the compression release not to work. It rotates the engine until it hits the compression stroke then gets it started on the next rotation where it gets a full running start on it.

It might be a little easier to speculate if you told us what you rewired. Is that an electric fuel pump I see in that pic?

Have you engaged the hydro bypass? It's usually on the draw plate

184956 is the model transaxle you should already have in that model GT

Time to check the right drag link and the tab where it attached to the axle. It's pretty standard for these to get bent and throw off the alignment on these machines.

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/2752udhcf7-000247/craftsman-917370927-gas-walk-behind-mower-parts

He probably swapped the engine. The original engine most likely has a starter mounted solenoid and was replaces with a engine that used a external solenoid. I would expect this mower to have a CV-(displacement) model command not a CV-(Horsepower) model.

For the tans it sounds like the detent groove is getting worn. These trans have a shift fork that rides along a rod with 2 groves in it. The shift forks have a spring and a metal ball in them that kind of lock into the groove. You should be able to feel this through the shifter when you...

There have been several styles of steering on these mowers. You might want to start with a model number.

Pretty much any 3 blade AYP deck made between 95-05 should hook right up to that mower with the correct drive belt used. I know of 44", 46", 48", 50" and 54" decks. The 54" deck would also need the lift arms swapped out since it used different ones, but the rest all used the same mounting...

It should be possible in theory. I am a little worried that the low tech charging system in most lawnmowers might make for some dirty power and cause a little static. Personally I just found it much easier to use an old mp3 player I have or my cell phone to play music so I never attempted...

If you can't find that part you could probably use the old style front hangers. 2x part number 127218, they are readily available.

What you have is an old Haban made snowblower attachment, they went out of business in the mid 90's. It would be a much better fit if your lawnmower was 20-30 years older. It was made to fit the models with the frame that left a hump between your legs while sitting. Getting it to fit your...