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Well, well, well....ya'll didn't think I was one of those that got a little information and disappeared without a conclusion did ya'? :p I got fed up with this mower and shoved it in the shed, put a tarp on it, and waited for warmer weather. Spring has come and I started going through things...

Ok, as I ignorantly chase my tail back and forth....lol.... I pulled the solenoid. 4 point/post solenoid. I put 12 Volts across the blades and it clicks solidly every time. Put a meter on continuity on the screw terminals and it rings for continuity when I charge the solenoid at the blades...

I jumpered the foot switch wiring harness from the point that has voltage to the one above it. That's the way the foot switch seems to operate. When pushed in there is continuity between those terminal posts on the switch. No change in problem. Still no start. Just an update. Thanks.

I should have noted in the tests above that there was no one in the seat and the seat switch has always worked as designed fyi. I got the foot switch wiring harness loose. The clasp is on the bottom on this one if anyone needs to know. And the switch is gray/white AND black plastic. The mistake...

Using this diagram. The switch tests to have continuity where it should in the positions noted. Other VOLTAGE tests I performed if it helps is to test the harness this attaches too in the following manner. -Black Lead of the multimeter connected at the negative of the battery. -Red Lead used...

Here's a dumb question: How do you disconnect the wiring harness from the foot pedal switch for testing? I've disconnected various harnesses from various things & usually there's a clip you push down or pull up. Then wiggle and slide off. This is on here pretty tight and I don't seem to see a...

Thanks. I keep coming back to the PTO test as a way to chase the voltage loss. Reason being is that the PTO will from the factory engage regardless of safety switches when the key is on in the "run" position. Don't have to be in the seat and don't have to press the brake/clutch/safety switch...

How about the pedal switch? Any test to do there? Thanks.

Here's a picture of my solenoid/terminal junction where the majority of the testing I'm referring too above is done if it helps.

Ok. I finally got a chance to check some things with my meter for further input. Battery condition: 13.45 Volts (Just removed the charger.) Pulled fuse and tested. It tones to be good. (Ohm continuity.) Testing with meter: -Black lead on negative/ground of battery-Red lead to first terminal...

Thanks for the latest information. Working on wrapping my head around the schematics as I'm not that good at it. One thing I will respectively disagree with is that the PTO should not engage if there is no one in the seat. Maybe that is what StarTech is explaining above? Normal operation...

Awesome replies. Thanks to all. I will dive in fully with the meter this weekend and let ya'll know how things go. One thing that I noticed but left out, (sorry) is that with the switch on, when you pull the PTO to engage the blade clutch, nothing happens. Normally you can hear it engage even...

Thanks! I will be going through this with it soon. May take me a day or two with work and other things. I have no assistant. But I do have a good meter and alligator test leads. I will report back after going through your list. Thanks again to both current replies and others are welcome...

Simplicity Part# 2690575 (How it's labeled on sticker on frame.) Thanks.

(I also posted this in the Briggs and Stratton Engine section then thought maybe it should be here. Sorry to moderators. Feel free to delete or adjust as necessary. Thanks.) Hello lawn and engine folks. Having an issue now with my lawn tractor starting Details: Older Simplicity Regency (20...

Hello lawn and engine folks. Having an issue now with my lawn tractor starting Details: Older Simplicity Regency (20 years? Not sure. Time and memory gets away...) Briggs & Stratton 22HP Intel V-Twin Valve cover stamp: Model 44K777 Type 0115 E1 Code 071015YG. Issue I'm having is a no start...

Update for anyone interested..... I drained the oil, unbolted and raised the engine in place, took the plate off and cleaned all oil pretty thoroughly everywhere around the pump plate contact area with carburetor cleaner. Put Permatex High Temperature RV "Red" gasket maker more liberally...

As you can see, probably not an option. I don't have an "annoyance leak" where there are a couple of drops on the garage floor after mowing for an hour and putting away. This is after roughly 60 seconds and there is more on the towel below. Tip for anyone, this is Leakfinder Dye LF2001 for oil...

See above please. Thanks.

Yes, I have done cleaned everything. Maybe more information would help all that are trying to help me. Sorry, didn't mean to leave anything out. Engine dropped a pushrod into the case. Wouldn't come out with any kind of tricks with a magnet so I had to take engine out, flip it, remove the pan...

Anyone have any suggestions for fixing this leak? Thanks.

New OEM O-ring installed. Ran maybe 30 seconds to a minute. Checked, no leaks. It was getting dark so I called it a day. Go out today to give it a longer run and check. Didn't even run it. A run of oil on the frame in the same area.. Aggravating...

Update if interested: Replaced the o-ring this evening with an OEM one. Ran shortly and saw no leaks! :) Will run longer tomorrow and look again. Thanks.

Oh, I meant that if anyone had experience with this leak and had a recommendation of an O-ring that would be better/larger than the OEM then I would get that. But if not, I'll try a new OEM O-ring. Thanks.

Hello lawn and engine folks. I have a leak & question where I could use some Ideas or direction. Have a Briggs & Stratton 22HP Intel V-Twin on a Simplicity mower. Valve cover stamp: Model 44K777 Type 0115 E1 Code 071015YG. My issue is the O-Ring leaking at the oil pump cover. Not leaking at...