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StarTech, I got the service manual for this mower now. Is there way to Direct Message you on this site?

Oh, the sweet taste of success. I figured it out!! I had a bad connection in the plug (circled in red on the pic) at the brake switch that prevented power from being fed to the PTO clutch and the fuel cutoff solenoid (green traces in the pic) when the brake was disengaged. The previous owner...

Good News/Bad News Good news - I found the problem w/ the seat safety switch not getting power. The previous owner was very tricky and spliced green and yellow wires going to the seat switch and buried the splice WAY up the factory loom that protects the wires. After several hours of tracing...

I thought the same thing when I saw the schematic but that yellow 510 is hot in the key ON position. It must provide field excitation to the alternator.

Perfect!!! Thanks so much. It'll take me a little time to decipher this but step one is to figure out why seat switch 510 yellow has no power. It seems it has to be a broken wire somewhere because 509 yellow has power at the seat delay module. Just gotta find the ghost or goblin in this...

OK, I've run out of daylight but we're getting closer (I think). Still weird response, this is what I have: 1. With key in "RUN" position, I have 12+VDC on yellow 509 at seat delay module (expected) 2. With key in "RUN", I do not have any voltage at yellow 510 at the seat switch (unexpected)...

oops, didn't see your post before I ordered the ebay service manual. It is TM2259 and it says it covers s/n 010001- up. It was only $25 (digital copy) so I'm not out much if I ordered the wrong one. Thanks for all your help.

OK, the rain finally stopped and I got to dig a little deeper. I found a picture of a 2x2 pin configuration delay module that showed wire colors and I checked resistance reading that Kenbu posted on my 1x4 pin configuration delay module. They were very similar readings as shown in the...

Correct, switch is open with nobody in the seat. It closes with relatively light pressure on the seat so i'm confident this switch is not the issue. I stopped at 2 local shops today trying to find an electrical schematic to aid in troubleshooting but neither could access it. The closest...

If it is a failed delay module, it has failed in the "energized" condition and is keeping the fuel solenoid and/or magneto stop from killing the engine when the operator leaves the seat for >2sec. It's a rainy day today so I'll have to do some more testing tomorrow afternoon when the rain is...

The screenshots of ways to check the timer module are for a type different than mine. It shows a square 4 pin plug in a 2x2 configuration. Mine is a 1x4 flat configuration. I attached pics of the 2 different styles I've found. I was wishing Kenbu's pic showed wire colors so I could check...

AutoDoc, It has a 4 pin connector for the seat control module like the one shown in the attachment. It that the magic box you were thinking about?

Thanks Star Well, that explains why I couldn't find an ECU anywhere on that tractor. 10 relays in a row above the engine.

Thanks StarTech. I can't tell if this mower is the "R" version of the 997. No labels anywhere show an "R" after the 997. For $15, I'd gladly get the tech manual. Where's the best place to get it?

I saw that thread but it's addressing a problem a little different than the one I'm having. It also has a different style of time delay module. It has 4 pins in a 2x2 configuration. Mine is a 4 pin in a flat configuration. Thanks for the response though.

Does anyone have a good electrical schematic I can get? I have the Owners Manual and an Operators Manual but neither of them have a schematic.

Hi guys, I'm working on a John Deere 997 Z-Trak for a friend and I'm trying to get the seat safety switch to work. I think it may be an early 2000's model (ID# DM997SC020068). Complaint - mower will not cut off while mower deck is engaged and you lift your butt out of the seat. Things I've...

New plugs installed and no more backfiring. Thanks to Bertsmobile1 for all the help.

My neighbor loves me because I do the same and usually run out of grass so I cut his.

Ah! I get it now. I was only considering the hot muffler as the ignition source and not the HOT exhaust from the first ignition. I'll get the new plugs installed and see if I can replicate the issue. As you know better than anyone, troubleshooting an intermittent problem can be difficult...

Thanks for the quick response. Not sure what "afterfire" is. My understanding is that "backfire" is fuel being ignited in a hot muffler. Since the engine is cold, it can't be that. The 2 times I was able to replicate the issue, it backfired immediately upon starting the cranking. I have...

Hi guys, I'm working on a Toro zero turn (Model 75755) with a Toro branded engine # 139-0602. The complaint is that it intermittently backfires on a cold startup. It runs fine once started. I have only been able to replicate the issue twice and both were on a stone-cold engine startup. It...

Update - the pressure washer started fine for a while but recently started kicking back again while trying to start it. My buddy ordered a new ignition coil and set the gap back to 0.010". No change with the new coil. Still kicking back. I think I need to order a book of matches and some...

My buddy picked up the pressure washer today and will keep an eye out for these issues. If they appear, we'll order a new magneto and go back to 0.010 gap. Thanks again for all the help!!

SUCCESS!!! Bertsmobile1 win the prize (if I had a prize to give away). I had the original magneto gap set at 0.010". I set the gap to 0.020" and it jerked out of my hand at 1/2 of a pull. I set the gap at 0.030 and it starts every time and runs great. I wouldn't have ever figured that out...

That's a great idea! I'll try that today after my bloodmobile donation appointment. Thanks!! I wondered that myself but if I disconnect the spark plug, I can pull it over all day without any kickback. As soon as I reconnect the plug, it kicks back when I try to start it. That points me back...

Thanks Bert. Looks like mine is advanced about that much but I still haven't figured out why it's kicking back. I put it all back together today and it started twice with one pull. Woohoo!!! On the 3rd start, it snatched the cord out of my hand again. It's just teasing me now. Dang it!

Thanks to all for weighing in and giving me some things to try. Still stumped though. Looks like I need to tuck my tail between my legs and tell my friend I got my butt kicked with this one. Unless you guys can reach a little deeper into your bag of tricks one more time, I'll admit defeat. :(

I'll put that in my bag of tricks next time I have one stuck. Good idea!

I took a screenshot of a youtube video by Autotech (thanks Autotech) of him removing the flywheel from a GX390. It shows the magnet at about the 12 o'clock position and the piston down about 1" in the bore. With my GX270 magnet at the 12 o'clock position, the piston is at TDC. If I put the...

Yes, the spark plug was out and I verified that the piston was at TDC. It really has me stumped. Do you think a new coil can compensate for the flywheel being off that much? I didn't measure it but it looks about 30 degrees off to me.

I can visually see the compression release mechanism burp the exhaust valve when I have the valve cover off and turn it over by hand. It also doesn't kick back at all if I have the spark plug disconnected. As soon as I restore spark, it kicks back on the first pull.

Is it possible that the crankshaft is a 2 piece component that somehow spun to throw off the timing?

I checked everything again. Attached is a picture of the flywheel and coil (cooling fan removed for clarity). The piston is on TDC, both valves are closed with the proper lash adjustment, the flywheel key is intact (checked a second time). The flywheel magnet looks way too far advanced to me...

I hooked up water to the pressure washer today and disconnected the spark plug wire again. Like before, it pulled over normally several times with no issues (wand trigger held to relieve pump pressure). When I hooked up the spark plug again, on the first pull the cord snatched out of my hand...

Thanks Rivets, I spent the afternoon playing with chalk and monster trucks with my 2 year old granddaughter. I'll teach her small engine repairs soon so she can fix her boyfriends truck someday in high school. I'll try starting it with water attached tomorrow after my doc appt and let you...

Hi guys, I need your help again. I'm working on a friend's pressure washer with a Honda GX270 engine (GCBGT-2225859) and his complaint is kickback when trying to pull start it. He said it just started doing this a few weeks ago. He has had the unit since new and has not replaced any parts on...

StarTech, I wondered if it was a bad needle bearing but I see no evidence that a needle bearing was ever in there. I saw there was supposed to be one in the figure on the JD website but I can't see there was ever one there. Nothing inside the housing to indicate it fell apart and dropped into...

I got the new c-clip today. I went to reassemble the rear end and when I dropped the output shaft back into the transaxle housing, I found the housing was "wallered out" (is that a real word or just my childhood WV lingo coming out?) and the shaft flopped around like a, uh, er, something that...

Make sure your gas cap is venting properly. Loosen the cap and see if it runs past your problematic 5 minute mark.

I'll post the thickness, ID and OD when it arrives. Thanks again for the help.

I knew you guys would help. Happy the answer came so quickly. Thanks Star Tech!!! I'll go order it now.

Hi gang, I have a john deere D100 with a spicer transmission AM134770. The c clip (part number 41 in the attached picture) that holds the pinion gear onto the output shaft broke so I could take the output shaft and pulley out of the top of the transmission. Pretty sure it's not supposed to do...

No, I typed it laying in bed. Did it sound like a good possible cause or a crappy one. Just wondering if I should be insulted or pleased with your accusation? I'm thinking insulted but thanks for reading my reply.

Seat safety switch bad and it thinks that you have been ejected so it grounds the coils?

I turn the mower on it's side and put a very thick piece of angle bar between the base of the crankshaft (i.e. at the lower seal) and my concrete driveway and wail away. This angle bar absorbs the blows so the engine housing and seal don't have to. Have had very good success this way.

Great recommendations guys!! However, I got lucky and am now going to a Plan "B". My father-in-law has a 21HP briggs with a smaller crankshaft diameter that one of my own double pulleys will fit. I'll save the engine with the larger crankshaft along with its original upper pulley and clutch...

Thanks for the options guys! I figured I was going to have to make one since I couldn't find one with that large of a bore. Was hoping I just s**ked at searching and you guys would point me in the right direction. Turns out, I was right. You pointed me in the right direction but one that...

Hi guys! I need some help finding an engine double pulley for my mower. I'm in the process of swapping an engine into my Husqvarna YTA 18542 mower (model 960450055). The donor engine (Briggs 40H777-0241-E1) came out of a Husqvarna GT2254 (Model 96025000201). The donor mower utilized an...

have you checked your valve adjustment? I've had problems where loose valves make for extremely high engine compression that the battery/starter cannot overcome and it draws the battery down hard. If the battery stays at 12+ volts during the starting attempts, I agree with the previous...