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Your best bet is to start contacting all Stihl authorized service dealers in you area.and see if they have a used one in their used parts.

Maybe one of these service manuals will help you out. https://www.toro.com/getpub/117255 https://www.toro.com/getpub/117255

Please provide us with the units model and serial numbers so we can figure out which engine you have. ID tag under the seat.

You will have to give us a lot more information before we can provide you any help. We hate making guesses when we don’t have good information. Please provide us with the following. 1. We need all engine numbers, model, type and code. 2. How long has this been going on? 3. Has the unit been...

On this model two things will cause lockup when pulling backwards, belt too tight or clutch washer and key installied wrong.

These are the best pictures I could find. https://www.toro.com/getpub/22446

It has been proven the magnetic field flux is not affected by rust.

Need to know if you have any old 18 hp cast iron engine or a newer OHV engine. Please post all engine numbers or a pic of the engine ID tag.

If you would have done what I suggested in post #6 we would have known if it was a coil or not. You may have saved a lot of time and money.

Even if you could get parts, I would be very careful about fixing it, unless it is not major. As stated you need to tear into it and find and verify the cause. If you need to replace one piston, rod, head, etc. it is best to replace both on a twin. This is major. Second, most techs only...

Causes for continued belt breaking. In no specific order. 1. Wrong size belt. 2. Belt not routed properly. 3. Incorrect belt tension. 4. Bad tension arm. 5. Pulleys not aligned properly. 6. Debris getting caught in between pulleys and belt. 7. Bad spindle bearings. 8. Loose spindle...

Glad to hear you got it running, but we’ll never know the cause of the problem, as you just replaced parts until the problem was solved. That won’t help others in the future..

That’s why I asked, as I’ve never seen one an engine over 8 HP.

Are you sure it has one?

No, 90% of the time I will use OEM belts. Only use aftermarket belts when I’m in a pinch. NAPA sells 90% of its belts for automotive use and wouldn’t survive if it relies of belts used in the small engine world.

Then you’ve never had to warranty your work. I learned a long time ago, I don’t want to do a job twice trying to save a buck or two. My rep means more to me and customers keep coming back.

Only way you get better belts is if you take a lot of time to identify the belt material and size. Experience has taught me to NEVER believe what the guy behind the counter says about their belts, at an auto parts store. Most don’t know the difference between blinker fluid and bacon grease.

To upgrade this unit you would need to find an engine with at least a 10 Amp charging system. Your idea is good but unless you have excess $$$$ the unit is not worth it. I suggest you get a pair of heated gloves and the brightest headlamp you can find. Use the balance of your $$$ and have a...

I agree Star, but this guys head is harder than yours and mine melted together. Must be in the genes of those guys in California who are always the most “intelligent “. I’ve fought with is guy in the past and from what I’ve seen his customers are willing to pay his prices even though he charges...

Maybe it makes no difference to you, but you MUST put yourself on the DYI guys shoes when making recommendations. You may have worked on many L-head engines, but how many have you had to adjusted the valve clearance on? Back in the late 70’s I probably did more clearance adjustment on the them...

Slomo, if you had read the entire thread you would have seen that the engine is an L-head engine and it is mounted in a Simplicity tractor. The engine would have to be removed on most of these tractors to properly check clearance and will definitely need to be removed to pull and regrind valve...

Unless you’re experiencing problems, not just worrying about age or what might be, I would NOT recommend tearing into the engine. This could get expensive very easily. Here’s why. 1. If you’re doing one cylinder, best to do both. This would double cost. 2. I’ve rebuilt more engines than...

Jonny, you say you are new to help forums so I’ve got a couple of suggestions which will help you out. You’ve made some mistakes (posting two threads about different engines, but not clearly identifying what is going on) so I suggest you start over, and follow these steps in both threads. 1...

Jonny, you say you are new to help forums so I’ve got a couple of suggestions which will help you out. You’ve made some mistakes (posting two threads about different engines, but not clearly identifying what is going on) so I suggest you start over, and follow these steps in both threads. 1...

Take one of your better half’s scrubbies and carefully rub over the engine numbers. Most times this will make the numbers pop out.

So let me get this straight, you created two threads about two engines, with different problems? Are the engines similar? On top of that you didn’t tell us this when you started the second thread. Now you are going to get everyone confused. Can you provide us a picture of the model numbers...

This manual might help. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawasaki-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/FD620D-FD661D-KAWASAKI-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL.pdf

Probably installed the drive gears backwards. This manual should help you out. https://www.toro.com/getpub/22446

Because the linkages are the same and I found this one before you posted the model numbers. If the OP would stick to one thread it would be easier to help him and if you would see that there were two threads, you would understand the confusion.

Attached are both a parts manual and service manual which should help you out. https://www.scribd.com/doc/265141946/Model-281707-0125-Briggs-Straton http://www.tuks.nl/WFCProject/img/Engine_Carburator/81644210-Briggs-Stratton-Service-Manual-L-Head.pdf

You are missing both the throttle and choke linkage. Once we get the model, type and code numbers, located on the shroud above the spark plug, we will be able to get you a service manual and part numbers.

More than once I have found the 301 engines with an automotive style coil will show spark when the plug is not under compression. Need to test for spark using an inline tester. With this style ignition system I would be checking the condition of the points and be sure they are well grounded...

Most common cause for this problem is a coil with a hot short or hot open. Next time it happens check for spark. No spark, I’d be replacing the coil.

Glad to hear you’ve joined the club of electrical troubleshooting. We’ve all been there and found that a good meter, schematic and patience are our friends.

This thread is going into too much politics and should be closed. The Grinch.

Ever thought about answering Star’s request for engine numbers? He’s a hell of a lot smarter than you if you are asking how to find websites.

Sorry I’m bad, old age is catching up on me.

Part number correct, wrong part? That would never happen on anything sold on Fleabay. Go to a good repair shop or dealer for the correct part. Don’t be penny wise, pound foolish.

Using the engine numbers the OP provided,it should use, Briggs & Stratton 271962 Air Pre-Filter, Foam

Please post engine numbers, model, type and code.

Don’t know if you have this manuals. https://www.toro.com/getpub/70805

These two service manuals may help you in the future. https://www.toro.com/getpub/186431 https://www.toro.com/getpub/196630

As someone who’s had to repair more than my share of tires where Slime or other sealing products have been used, it is not a cure all and you definitely will have a mess if the tire has to be removed in the future. I inform customers that if I find it there will be at least an extra 1/2 labor...

Believe it or not I’ve seen it and many other thing holding valves open. I think the weirdest one is a small machine screw, about 10 X 28X 1/4” holding the exhaust valve open. Have no idea how it got passed the intake valve and into the exhaust port with the screw head against the valve face...

If you have no throttle control cable, I’m wondering if you have a constant speed setup. When you move the governor rod does it stay in one place or drop back down? Second question, when you move the governor rod does the engine speed decrease? I’ve attached a service manual which may be of...

This may be the dumbest question I’ve asked but is the transmission tight on the frame? I vaguely remember having a unit where the transmission was loose and moving forward, which will shorten the rod length needed. Just gasping at the unknown.

That’s why I suggested he go to a dealer or good repair shop. They can cross reference the part and order it. Most dealers will not charge you if they look up the part and it’s not the correct one.

I’m finding that your engine uses a Champion RN4C, which has a 3/4” reach.

I’m finding 3/8-24 like Star said.

Need the model and serial numbers from the engine to help you. I hate guessing.