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I have several NEW take offs - Fuel Tanks and Mufflers - they are for a single cyl Predator 212 6.5hp engine $10 each + shipping

Most places will ship parts, if payed for in advance.

Things that cause that are : too much debris in drive system - cable / cables out of adjustment - drive belt broken or stretched - drive belt came off of pulley / pulleys - drive assembly bad Depends on where it was purchased to get warranty work done, box stores usually don't do...

That's about right....a Kaw engine raises the cost $300 - $400 of any mower

No fuel getting through the carb = no run.

Yep,,that has to come off first! Use what Scrub said....air hammer or my favorite...the torch!

Since it fired with a shot of fluid, it is not getting fuel in the engine. Start looking at the fuel system.

I can't see your video but, everything has to be removed from the output shaft of the crankshaft for the sump to slide off the crankshaft....blade adapter, pulleys, or anything else.

Simple Green or equivalent for a carb cleaner ...and foam rubber lightly oiled for an air filter

Take a valve cover off, drill & tap 1/8" NPT on top and buy a brass 1/8" NPT x 1/4" straight brass fitting.....you're set!

No...there is A LOT more to it than that. It might be out of reach for you.

I luv the simple stuff.....because a lot of the times, it is not. Glad you got going easily!

Real common occurence.......as long as there is a grease zirk in the middle of the bearings, I take off both inside seals so it will get greased, then I explain this to the customer, they luv it...and you now have another returning customer!

First thing to do is , look at your belt and routing, make sure that is OK and aligned, then check and make sure the belt is tight along all the pulleys.

I'm a Shindaiwa fan....mostly because we are a Shindaiwa dealer and I know how good they are. Echo & Shindaiwa are the same parent company.

Most only have 1 seal...that is the std in the industry but, their not needed on either valve really, they get hard in no time and don't seal anyway....won't smoke any more or less. Mower engines can use a little oil, it's the nature of the beast, it doesn't make them junk......but killing...

I figured you did, because that's probably how you have to do it when it works right. Next step is to follow all linkage to make sure it's not binding somehow.

I suppose you have tried rocking it back & forth while trying it?

I rest my case!......lol

That's easy....the best one is the one that stays running and works / mows the best, since both are yours anyway!

Negative on all that....take it to a shop that didn't just hang their open sign, last week!

They have missed something! They took a heck of a swing to get nowhere....that's crazy! I agree, find another shop!

Yep, leave them off....everyone does, just be mindful that their gone and don't let any kids, dogs, cats, people, get on the mower when your blades are on.....which you shouldn't do that even if you had shields on!

That video doesn't look like a piston going up & down in a cylinder, that looks like a valve opening & closing on a Flathead type engine.

If you can't have someone help you drag it on a trailer, have them (service guy) come and get it. 15 miles to your dealer, seems not that far to me. People drive by several shops, some 75 miles, to bring mowers to the dealership I work at.

I guess Ethanol free fuel is hard to find and is not available everywhere......gotta keep those corn farmers afloat, ya know!

Did you test your fuel that was supposed to be 10%? Sometimes fuel has more than that, even though it's not supposed to...or there are stations that have several types of fuel at a single pump and whatever the person that used it before you, you get some of that fuel that's in the pump line...

To see if the piston is moving, take out spark plug, stick a long pencil down the spark plug hole until you feel it bottom out,while holding the pencil the whole time, then slowly spin engine by hand, you should feel the piston rise and lower.....if it's all connected the way it's supposed to be!

Main jets DON"T GO BAD...they get plugged up....there is a lot more to cleaning a carb, putting it back together, with all the right gaskets aligned, than most people think! There is cleaning a carb then there is CLEANING a carb.

If I read a clutch and its' 1.7 or below, it's bad....but I measure them cold! I say measure it again when cold. Does your clutch have pigtail wires molded into it or do they unplug at the clutch? If it unplugs, unplug it and measure the clutch.

It could be a dozen of different things wrong. To me if you put gas in the carb and it starts and runs until the gas is gone, that means fuel delivery but, hard to say 100%

I'm not that familiar with Exmark but, If it cuts out every 5-10 minutes and acts like it re-sets itself and works again, kinda sounds like a relay cutting in & out. I would check & see if there is a relay in the PTO Clutch circuit, and go from there.

That is a good reading for a used clutch, unless something else is happening with the clutch, those are good #'s

Not getting fuel, either clean / rebuild the carb, or replace it.

Good mower. It could be a linkage adjustment and probably is...or low tire, weak hydro, just as you have found out. Those year range of B&S engines were prone to have sump pan gasket that leaked eng oil. Just check it all out, ride / drive it, ask all the ?? you can.

Yeah, I would check this solenoid....fuel can get to the carb via gravity or pump and fill the carb bowel but, if this solenoid is not working, it shuts all the fuel from going into the venture of the carb, then the engine...and won't start!

Go to your local lawn mower shop and buy self-threading bolts...they are either 5/16 or 3/8 most likely. New engines come with no threads thus...self-threading bolts!

Does this carb have an electric fuel shut-off solenoid on the bottom of the carb bowel?

When there is a hole in the block made by something on the inside of the engine, just sealing the hole won't do it......it's probably toast!

That is odd, a bad clutch at 12.5 hrs....kinda a rare situation....I hope better luck to you now with it!

Sounds like the PTO clutch might be bad. When the clutch is bad, it will work for a few minutes then burn out the PTO switch, put on another new PTO switch and it will burn it out also.....and will keep doing it. Get an OHM meter and measure the OHM resistance between the 2 terminals on the...

Most of the "big name" engine manufacturers recommend every 250-300 hrs.....and I WOULD recommend it!

This is the Forum for advice and there is also a designated Dixie Chopper thread.....

Yeah, no kidding....nobody thinks a plastic cam is a good idea....even people that don't know about engines knows plastic in an engine is no good!....we're not gonna tell them that their governor assy is probably plastic too...are we?

Yes they do but, they are not just plastic, they are Phenolic Plastic....crazy tough!

Check your engine and make sure it is firing on both cylinders. Pull 1 spark plug wire at a time, then put it back on.,,,all this while the eng is running!

Good job!!

You're right, I looked at some new XT's this morn when I got to work. They have changed them on the new stuff....that is another example of an Engineer designed part, they will never have to work on....stupid idea! The old blade terminal bulb sockets, were a lot easier to work with!

Yes, both are serviceable. All good choice of mowers. I personally would stay away from a diesel, NOT because they're not reliable, they are top notch but....real heavy (on a wet yard) and diesel engines are only repaired or warrantied at a certified diesel shop and not just a Scag dealer.

But you forgot to add shipping.....USPS not too bad but UPS could be another $10 - $15