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Dixie Chopper makes blades that you can put 2 blades per spindle on. 30227-60X and 30227-60H. Don't know if the lengths are the same or not but can probably look the lenghts up.

One too many 6 in the model no.

Stihl Been in this business 47 years seen it all Oregon, Windsor, Sandvik, Carlton. Stihl is the best.

Not just Briggs but Kohler is following suit. They said to change the oil if you like but you have to turn the engine upside down to do it and pour the oil out. Since they no longer put a drain pug in the oil pan. Or you can make siphon to siphon the oil out. Someone who worked where I do now...

Have a Z925M in the shop with a bottom seal pouring oil. JD made it where you have to pull the engine to be able to replace the bottom seal. The motion drive pulley was a bear to get off had to drill two holes in the pulley so i could make a puller to get the pulley off. When I got the engine...

Oh yes have to replace the whole harness because the PTO switch is incoperated into the key pad. Are the other mowers like this? Not fimiliar with the others.

Looks like some one could make a kit Where all that was require was to replace the switch. On D/C you have to replace the complete wiring harness.

Contact Spartan and ask if they make a kit to convert to an ignition switch kit. Dixie Chopper had this problem and made a kit to conver it to key start. Have change a lot of them out.

Choke may not be coming all the way off when you start it. Some of these mowers have throttle controls where the choke is incoperated into the throttle control do this. have to work on some to get them to work properly. Don't know why the idiots that build these can't figure this problem out.

I tried cranking ~30 seconds and found both spark plugs wet. If I shoot starter fluid into the air intake, the engine will fire up for a couple of seconds. I disassembled and cleaned the carb; still won't start. Is there water in the fuel?

There lots of mowers that the fuel line goes in the top of the tank that draw fuel from the botton vie a fuel pickup hose.

Did you adjust the valves. They set .004 on both valves,

Have you pulled the valve covers and checked the valve lift? Just pulling them and looking at the valves will not tell you anything you have to turn the engine over and watch the valves move. they should move about the same amount.

Parts IPL did not show a reference no. but the parts list did list it as reference no. 350. have seen this in various IPLs

yes needed to be just loose enough to pivot

? It's a Stihl Trimmer FS90R 4 Mix

Check the valve clearance.

Unplug the kill wire from the coil and check for spark again. If no them take the coil off and clean the mounting areas on the coil and engine block. Have heard this all my life but only got it to work one time. But worth the try.

Did you by chance tighten the bolt down tight that goes through the eye of the cable?

Could be a bent push rod, push rod off.

On some mowers you have to pull the release levers out and lock a pair of vice grips on them to make them release, Check the motion belt.

Did you check the oil to see if it is over full and my have fuel in the crank case. Compression check and cylinder leak down test might show it.

When I run into one with trash in the tank I take a kerosene hand pump with squeez bulb and siphon the gas and trash out. Then take an air hose and blow the tank out. Then install a new fuel filter. Works for me.

Did you check the exhaust port in the cylinder to make sure it is open?

Boy that is a no no CV16S advertised as 16.5 HP. Any way you have to determine why it i quitting spark or fuel.

Have found bad stators blow fuses as well try unplugging the regulator and see if it quits blowing the fuse.

Not an option you would have to try an after market or adapt another brand on it.

when you unhooked the wiring harness you disconnected the fuel shut off solenoid so it is not gerring fuel to the cylinder.

Good compression check does not indicate you don't have a valve problem. Say you have a push rod off or a worn cam lobe it can still have good compression. Have you tried pulling one plug wire at a time to see if it is hitting one both cylinders.

When you turn the key to start the pull in circuit pulls the solenoid and opens the valve. When you turn the key back to the run position the hold in circuit kicks in and holds in open while it is running.

Fuel shut off solenoid has two circuits one to pull it in and one to hold it in. Been a long time had one that the hold in circuit wiring had a bad connection.

What would they say if they brought it to one of us here who do this for a living and we told them we replaced all these parts and it didn't fix it. Sounds like he spent a lot of money and didn't fix it.

What would they say if they brought it to one of us here who do this for a living and we told them we replaced all these parts and it didn't fix it. Sounds like he spent a lot of money and didn't fix it.

What the heck is a T25i. Model type and code of the engine. I assume it is a Kohler EFI. If so it has a fuel control module which the pulse pump supplies fuel to and the high pressure pump in the module supplies fuel to the fuel injectors at 39 psi.

They went from a one wire solenoid to a two wire hence the kit. Part no. 32 757 01-S. $56.26 retail.

I would put an inline shutoff on it. That way you won't get fuel in the crank case. As long as you shut it off every time you finnish mowing.

Mix my own using ethanol free fuel and Stihl synthetic.

Keep throwing pars at it maybe you will find it sooner or later. Oh yea I forgot that is not throwing parts at it, it's the process of elemination.

That part you are talking about was on the older tractors They changed it on the later model tractors. Guess you guys haven't around long enough ro see them LOL.

He said it was a twin cam Kohler Courage engine never seen a shift type solenoid starter on a Courage single cylinder engine. Probably the solenoid.

Does it run rich and blow out black smoke? You can keep throwing parts at it or take it to a dealer that has the kohler soft ware and can read the codes and pin point the problem.

I am not a big fan of the mulch kits. They clog up under the deck really bad. If you do get one you should clean under the deck every time you mow. You need to mow really slow when mulching.

Have never seen one but it sounds like just what you needed. I would call it a niche mower just for the small yards like yours. Congrats on the find enjoy your mower.

Don't care for stripping but do different patterns to keep it from setting up a patterns. To me if you mow the same way every time it leaves tire tracks. Or darker green stripes where the tires run all the time.

Check the valves for lift could have a worn cam.

Nope

Anyone try the heavy duty 10 amp pto switch when the original pto switch blows? People come in the shop and want a new pto switch. They come back a day or two later and say you sold me a bad pto switch it din't run any time and blew. Not the switch but a clutch drawing too many amps. In this...

Oh I'm sorry I should have said the crank case is full of gas. That would have told you the cylinder was as well. There was nothing condecending about my post. It was ment to be just a game if you don't want to play don't. Hammermech had no problem with it.

When we run into one like that we pull them out and lock a pair of vice grips on the lever to old them out . See if that works. Or a ratchet strap will work as well and easier to do .

When you pull the levers wii they lock into the frame?