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And those are probably pretty stout diodes, not something in a modern electronic circuit.

If I'm looking at this right the diodes are preventing a backflow current rather than rectification. If you bypass the diodes you might switch on the starter solenoid and the carb solenoid when starting and the constant current flow to the carb will go back the solenoid and the starter will...

Are you sure these are diodes? Seems odd for a simple DC circuit to have those in it. If you have any junk electronics laying around you might find a couple diodes in there to use, old CFL or LED light bulbs too.

Mowing mostly level ground? Fairly smooth turf? I think this mower has a T40 Tuff Torq hydro unit which is a light duty non-serviceable transmission, some last, some don't.

You guys amaze me sometimes!

A zt5400? Is this a bull dozer? Probably overkill for about any yard, and overpriced for about any residential use. Which is why I'd probably buy it.

If it was mine, nothing really to lose, I'd try to drill down into the crank, tap it for 5/16 or 3/8, put a stud in it, self locking nut with washers/spacers to get the flywheel secured tight on it. Maybe use a steel key, might not work, but then again, it might. The crank is not a real hard...

These two mowers sound like they should be very similar. Will the decks swap actually??

Try a direct line from tank to carb, no filter or shut off.

Does this engine have a fuel pump or is gravity fed direct from the tank?

Have you actually seen that the choke is closed when running?

How does the wheel get driven? From a center hub or gear teeth on the outer rim? Outer diameter?

As the guys said, but all the safeties narrow down to a ground connection to the coil. This coil is self powered, no battery voltage needed. Get the black (?) ground wire off the coil and jump the starter. If it runs then start backtracking to find the culprit.

Auto parts stores have what is called "emblem tape" that is made by 3M I think. Really good stuff, dark brown to black and had a red pull off plastic strip. That would put that nameplate back on forever. One thing to watch on the motor swap is the battery voltage while running with the blade...

Do you see a hole or a plug or plastic cap on the wheel where a fitting is supposed to be installed.

Now we're getting the picture..

Those grease fittings are pretty universal for about anything. Likely a 1/8 or 1/16" npt thread which is a tapered thread that would probably screw into the wheel with a little persuasion. Any autoparts store should have a card with several fittings.

Might be better to start a new thread here and include engine code numbers etc. that you can find. Lots of differences in motors.

I would actually suggest blocking the hole off and taking the wheel off to clean and grease the bushings now and then. Makes sure they are evenly lubed.

So they ran it for 5 years with the blades running full time? I do some oddball fixes but I don't think I'd even pull that stunt.

I remember way back when, Snapper, Toro, and John Deere were at the top of the heap.

For sure you'd want a rear or all wheel drive. And it's a good idea to figure out what side the oil slinger is on inside the motor and keep it downhill if you mow along the ditch. You might have to keep the gas tank topped off to insure supply to the motor.

Rock bottom of the line rider. Chinese motor, belt drive, sheet metal front axle. Reviews that I see complains they fall apart pretty quick. Flat smooth city yard would be a good service for the mower.

Not sure how your mower is built but on mine I cut about 1/3 of the plastic chute off and bent up a prong under it to hold it up a couple inches higher. Does a much better job of spreading the grass. Using regular blades with just a little upturn on the back.

Good thing. I'm guessing the next step was a bigger hammer........

Have you actually verified the broken rod in the old Briggs? If so, any other damage to the motor that you can see? Might be possible to repair that motor for reasonable money. Normally you'd junk the mower and buy new but since it fits your needs perfectly I'd look into fixing what's there...

Kind of hard to diagnose this but have you found the low speed throttle adjustment on the new carb? Get the speed up then play with the LS jet some.

That's a pretty decent machine. Hard to replace that these days for any reasonable money. If it's still in decent condition I'd look into a motor replacement before scrapping it.

Ignition coil going bad?

Does this motor have a fuel pump on it? Those pumps can get some crud built up on the little rubber type internal valves and lose capacity.

Well, $25 for a cut, trim, and blow on a quarter acre sounds pretty fair to me. No bother, gas and oil, equipment taking up space, time and trouble.

On some of the old diaphragm carbs there is a choke preset deal when putting it back together. This one have this and did you do it? And I have seen these that won't run right with the air cleaner off for some reason.

What kind of Datsun do you have?

Oops, I was late to the party this time.

Check for valve action. Does the motor sound like there is compression when on the starter? There is usually a slide on gear that turns the cam and a key in a keyway for this. Don't know how it would get out but Murphy might have gotten in there? $250 sounds like a good deal on that mower.

I'd rig up a gas shut off valve in the fuel line. Get it running and fouling up the plugs and shut off the fuel supply. If it smooths out and runs for several seconds the problem is in fact the float valve/needle leaking through. Some of those have a rubber tipped needle, some have a rubber...

Not real sure with this motor but can you swap coils from side to side? That would prove the coil issue. Might also try putting the choke on some when it starts sputtering, see if that smoothes it out, might point to carburetion rather than ignition.

Maybe bumped the release lever on the rear panel a bit and need to push back in fully?

That Cub Cadet might be some overkill but I like a bit better than the Deeres, even with that K46 hydro. Good sized tires/wheels, fab. deck, big Kohler twin, good warranty if there's a local dealer. But the price is something to consider too.

One other thing. I wouldn't just assume the other K46 is a good transmission either. Might be better off pulling the mounted unit and cleaning it out, refill with new oil, reseal and trying it instead. Many (me for one) have done this and gotten a couple hundred more hours out of it.

One thing I'd maybe add is a water tank on the back of that machine. Be really handy to fill the tank and take it anywhere for a small job. Totally self contained with maybe 5 gallons for a two minute job out in the back forty.

I just replaced the drive belt on my JD. Last one that was falling apart was an actual John Deere belt, made in China, about 4 years (200hrs) old. Replacement was a Stens. We'll see how it lasts.

For me I just use Lawn Boy oil in the LB mower, Stihl oil in everything else. (Stihl dealer is close to me) Ratio mix pretty much as they recommend.

Seems odd that it smoothes out with the throttle cut back. Is the motor running on both cylinders when loaded up? Might try a new set of spark plugs. They do go bad these days.

I would think the two TT hydros would bolt up and drive the same. Maybe a keyed vs splined axle shaft or the shifter arm might be extended different but you could swap parts and make those work. Different brands would probably be a hard swap.

I'd replace that chain. The actual chain part stretches over time and use and does not engage as it should in the driver sprocket, really wears that out much quicker. But just looking at the sawdust can tell a lot about the cutters depth. Real fine sawdust means the cutters are worn and...

And the Chinese small engine cloners are grinning ear to ear on this bankruptcy.

Very good point there. Dealer sold you a defective product - and knew it.

Been reading reviews on Gravely's own site for this mower. Ouch!

Just hard to believe that any company would put out a product like this. I wonder if that series machine had a running change to a different deck and frame design or something just as this one was going out the door. Really strange. I'd not sit and wait for a solution.