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If the idle speed screw is not touching its stop, there is a problem in the linkage. Maybe missing a spring or hooked up incorrectly?

I have not noticed being locked out of anything.

I only use E0 in small engines, not vehicles. If any of the vehicles were seldom used, it would get E0 as well. I've never said it's cheaper to run from a direct operating cost standpoint. But if it weren't for subsidies, it would cost more and if they ever remove the subsidies from ethanol...

bert, rivets, hammer et al--I understand the frustration. I run Firefox 77.0.1 64-bit. I assume this is the latest version because it updates itself. I also run Adblock Plus. Right now, it's showing 19 things being blocked. The time between banners varies a lot. This morning, I haven't...

Advertising is the root of all evil.

For future reference, you would want to heat the pulley, not the crank. Heating the crankshaft would make it bigger, exactly the opposite of what you want.

By rotating the crank and watching the valves. The exhaust valve should just be closing and the intake valve starting to open when the piston is at top dead center.

Seeing more and more of this lately. If you have a question pertaining to a thread, please ask that question in the thread, not by contacting members directly. That way more people can see the question and see the answer. Also, a differnt member might be able answer it. Thanks.

Why is the pulley still on the crank? Get it off, then go buy a new key.

Right now ABP shows 21 ads being blocked. A sampling of other sites I use show from 1 up to 7. This site is being bombarded with ads.

It depends on how full the station tank was when the tanker started to unload. But how many times have you pulled into a station to fill up and the tanker just left?

I had a low oil sensor problem on a 10 hp horizontal shaft Tecumseh. Even though it showed it was full of oil, it needed a little more to be happy.

Buy non-ethanol gas for your mowers and other small engines. If that isn't possible, use the ethanol fuel in your car and don't refill the can until lawn mower gas is needed again.

Have him bring it over and give it a try.

Yes. I haven't gotten it yet today but yesterday it was common.

.06? Do you mean .006 (inches)?

I'm with Tom--let Kubota fix it. Also agree with his diagnosis--fuel starvation.

This was typed into the box at the end of comments. Widows 10, Firefox.

Could the muffler have gotten oil in it?

I have a roto tiller which sat for over ten years with gas in the tank. I dumped a small amount of gas down the throat of the carb and it started right up. Best advice is to just use non-ethanol gas in your small engines. FWIW, most additives are 'kerosene.' If it says 'petroleum distillates'...

Thanks, bert.

I doubt it. When you took the cover off, did you have to 'disengage' the fingers? I would think so, because the governor has to be able to pull as well as push the linkage to the throttle shaft unless either the 'push' or 'pull' is taken care of by a spring or something similar.

Gas cap vent.

Now you know why the replacement carburetor was so inexpensive. If you still have the old one, rebuild it.

I can't say that I understand the Kawasaki compression release. At all. But like any engine with a functioning compression release, the numbers you obtain with a compression tester are suspect. They should be LOWER than expected, though, not higher. If there is a lot of oil in the cylinder...

No, the valve guide moves by itself.

The Kawasaki shroud is very easy to remove to clean the fins. I use a leaf blower on the engine and mower every time I use it. I leave the engine running and blow down through the screen. And I still remove the shroud about every 25 hours to make sure nothing remains in there.

Your bent pushrod problem may be caused by the valve guide working its way out of the head. When it moves far enough out, the rocker arm collides with it and the pushrod keeps on pushing, and...the pushrod is the weak link and bends. The valve guide migration problem is assumed to be caused by...

6. I think so. Are you absolutely sure $15K will buy enough mower to handle a <2 acre job?

I think a lot of the concern over stamped steel decks is overblown. I've got a 26 year old Cub Cadet wiith 1100+ hrs that has a stamped deck and it's still fine.

I have a 1994 Cub Cadet and a 2001 Kubota. No plans to replace them anytime soon.

This thread has been moved to the Honda forum.

You ought to be able to mow 2 acres in 2 hours easy enough. And if you only mow once a month, multiply that by the number of months per year and see how little you're actually using that mower. Even if it's 12 months, that'll only put 24 hours a year on it. You could do that with a Big Box...

In the meantime, if it runs well enough to use, take bert's suggestion and install a fuel shut off valve and close it every time you shut the engine down. And keep an eye on the oil for any future gas contamination.

Multiple threads on same topic merged.

Or NAPA. NAPA is made by Wix and they have a filter look-up on their website. I was able to find the hydro filters for my zero turn on there by cross referencing the Dixon number. Rock Auto online carries some none auto applications, like filters.

Never heard of them, either. But if Bad Boy dealers are selling them, they're probably OK.

I have adblocker, too, and they were showing up in mine. They were typically a 'part' of a word, such as 'freethinker' where the 'free' would be clickable. Not very noticeable.

It's when the valves have too much clearance that the compression release doesn't work. Are you sure you set the valves correctly? This time, don't put the valve cover back on before you try it to see if the problem is fixed. This assumes your compression release is a small bump on the...

Oil smoke usually has a bluish tint to it and shows up at any speed.

If yours has the Kawasaki FR730V engine, I don't think it has an oil level safety switch. I have the manuals. They're nothing special. I don't have a scanner anymore so I may have to take pictures. Let me know if you want them. The cylinder cooling fins are located under the fan housing...

Sounds like it's running rich. Change the air filter and see if that fixes it.

Yes, tapered roller bearings.

This is a duplicate thread. Please see same thread in the Snapper forum.

Yes, I forgot the valve clearance issue. Having the correct valve clearance is necessary for some compression releases to work.

I have the same mower. It sounds like one of your safety switches is faulty or out of adjustment. How many hours on it when you got it? Have the cylinder fins ever been cleaned?

Amazon Prime is another <sometimes> good source. 2 day delivery.