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How old is the fuel in the tank, lines & carb ? If it's over 8 weeks, then dump it all into your car and get new fuel.

How old is the fuel ? Dump ALL the fuel (tank, lines & carb) that came with the mower. Install new fuel. Put the old stuff in your car... it doesn't care.

Most people would just look at HP and cut width, but there are other VERY important things.... Fuel tank size. You don't want to be constantly driving back to the barn for a fill-up. Or worse yet, walking back to the barn. Seat suspension. Not being a lawn means there are lots of pot holes and...

Some suggestions.... I've had the same issue with clogged fuel strainers inside the bottom of the fuel tank On a tiller recently, there was a bend in the fuel hose coming directly off the fuel tank. It was a tight 90 deg bend. Due to prolonged storage with fuel in the system, the ethanol ate up...

No way, man. I always went for the POWER... such as... The BSA Fire Fly !! :ROFLMAO:

You can't even afford to see the repair bills !! :ROFLMAO:

1. Test for 12V at the PTO clutch 2. Test the operation of the PTO clutch

Middle photo.... the seat switch seems to be disconnected at the switch.

Did someone say BSA Bantam ??

Your entire fuel system may need rebuilding.... especially if you left ethanol fuel anywhere in the mower over Winter. I just fixed a 3 year old tiller with only 5 hours on the engine. The main jet was completely blocked, the fuel ON/OFF valve was blocked, and the inside of the fuel line had...

Feasibility of rebuilding engine on 30 year old Honda Mower Not good. Typically Honda buys old parts back from their dealers so that older equipment CAN'T be repaired. They want you to buy a new one. You may find a piston on Ebay and a gasket set somewhere else, but it will be a hard slog... and...

2 ideas... Blocked fuel tank breather. Try taking the fuel cap off and see if it will crank 15 seconds later. On-again, Off-again seat safety switch. But the best idea (since it's new) is for you not to touch it. Take it back to the dealer and demand a new one. You won't get one, but they will...

I worked on Sukuki's for awhile..... back in the early 70's !! They were actually the leader in 2-stroke technology back then. The saying was... "You meet the nicest people on a Honda, but you get more nookie on a Suzuki !!" Hope that works out for you. :ROFLMAO:

Exactly. AND the short pipe extension will mean that oil drains into the pan, and not all over the mower frame.

Sorry to hear that. For the engine to seize it had to have an oil pump failure, oil filter blockage, run out of oil, or some other similar problem. So the seizure is simply a symptom of a greater problem. What I'm sayin is that it's probably not just a bore job with new piston and you're back...

Agree. Old belts are hardened with age, and no longer grip the pulleys. Try a new OEM blade belt. Do Not buy cheapo junk off Amazon; get a real belt.

At that incline and acreage, I'd suggest keeping the rider and going up-down the slope rather than across. So that you don't ever need to stop or backup, plan a path that allows you to go round and round in decreasing size circles. That will be faster, even if you run over some of the grass...

Not enough information. Is this the first week out of the garage after winter storage ? In 95% of the cases the engine was stored with ethanol fuel in the carb, fuel lines, and/or fuel tank. Not only does old fuel not burn, but as it sits in the float bowl it will clog the jets that allow the...

Yes, and.... They have a law to mark the country of origin on the box the part comes in. Why in Heaven's name don't they have a law to mark the country of origin on the web site selling it ?

On another note... NGK has, or will shortly be, discontinuing the production of non-resistor plugs. If you have an older engine that uses a plug without an R in the nomenclature, then you best go buy a box. Example... BRP7ES versus BP7ES.

Spark arrestors have been shown to cause cancer in California. :ROFLMAO:

Sorry to disagree. 100 to 60 is NOT a RATE. By its very definition a RATE always involves Time. "Miles" is not a Rate; "Miles per Hour" is a Rate. "Gallons" is not a Rate; "Gallons per Second" is a Rate. 100 to 60 is a percentage of leakage, but it does NOT describe a rate because NO Time was...

Taiwan, Thailand, Singapore, Malaysia... these are all non-Communist nations (generally) in SE Asia that are good, fair trading partners with the US. And they have cheaper labor than the Chi-coms. Lots of production is located there or moving there. The price of labor in Japan has been...

Do you wash your mowers ? Or do they stay parked in a cool moist place, like an un-heated barn ? Your issue sounds like poor electrical connections caused by terminal corrosion. Rather than brushing the terminal clean, I like to use a chemical cleaner that leaves the protective finish intact on...

First run of the season... and most probably performed on last season's fuel. Empty all the old fuel in the tank, carb and fuel lines. Then go buy some brand new fuel. That's the most likely cause of the poor running. (You can put all that old fuel in your car without creating an issue. Your...

The valve WAS fully closed, if you really were in the compression stroke. So what prompted you to remove just 1 rocker arm ? Why not none or both ? Just curious. Of course the pressure dropped, because we're not talking about valves for plumbing. But how long did the drop take ? It's the RATE...

It would take more HP for the a/c compressor than for the blades or drive wheels !! Every cost considered, it would be cheaper to hire a model in a bikini to run along side your mower and spritz you with cool water !!

AND... the longer they slip, the harder the burned fiction surfaces get... which makes them slip even more. Pretty soon the squalling will start and there won't be any more doubt. Buy the OEM belts, not something off Amazon.

Step number one.... Air the tires up to the recommended pressures.

Clogged 2-stroke exhausts were common back when you would run pre-mix dino oil at 25:1. These days they are basically a thing of the past if you run synthetic at the very high ratios they now recommend. So your pre-mix ratio is wrong, your High jet is adjusted WAY too rich, or your air filter...

The issue can just as easily be trash in the fuel from a rusted tank or blown in dust. The carb is not "worn out". So he can clean his original carb, and if it needs float and needle then he can simply swap out the new parts from the new carb.

Some ideas... First of all primary compression is much more important on a 2-stroke than top-end compression. So your pressure readings don't really help. Pumping fuel only means fuel is getting to the carb.... not into or thru the carb. Are you using ethanol fuel ? Has the unit run with...

What's worn out about your carb ? Fuel moving around doesn't usually put much wear on metal.

Agreed. Examples: What are we going to eat, grandmother? What are we going to eat grandmother? +1. Use only a leaf blower and/or compressed air and/or vacuum. Using a pressure washer would probably create more problems than it would solve.

There are different types of plastic. Some get form-able when heat is applied. Some go really spastic and twist/shrink in very strange ways. Some simply collapse. What you want is a heat gun with a focused nozzle to even have a chance.

If there are electrical connectors on the devices you are inspecting, then it would be wise to unplug and then re-plug them as you go. Sometimes the brass connectors, which are common to this type machine, corrode during winter storage if there is exposure to humidity or they get washed...

I'd start with the explanation for the warning light. That should be in your 2020 owners manual. If you don't have one, then Google it. Rarely IME is a blinking light a good thing. :LOL:

You'd probably have more luck simply fastening a steel or alum angle to your material and let the plastic remain straight.

Not sure about your particular engine... but a rod or linkage (possibly associated with the throttle) should push the choke to the ON position, and the spring is usually there to insure that the choke butterfly returns to the OFF position when the linkage retracts. Failing all other efforts...

No experience with the Gravely. I'm sure it's a fine mower. Your Exmark (made by Toro) must be used because most of their larger mowers now come with their own engine... which (BTW) is getting rave reviews. The Exmarks are typically feature-rich in ways you only appreciate after long ownership...

Some ideas... You'll be changing either oil long before it's "worn out" simply to get rid of the water that gets trapped in the cases. Modern motor oils are doped with so many refinements that the difference gap is narrowing. Synthetic will have a slight edge at start-up. If your mower is a...

No fight here. If I restored older engines, I'd be using 10W40 or 15W40 diesel oil too. Maybe even 20W50 !! And you said most of your engines are used in 90° temps. They will be harder to pull start. But if given 15-30 seconds of idling to warm up they'll be fine. Cold viscosity is not a moot...

The cover (or cuttings under the cover) is probably turning the Choke to the ON position. Clear all the debris away around the carb. Obviously, the cover has to be in place to run the air-cooled engine.

Welcome Aboard !

By this I take it you get no response from the ignition switch, but the battery is charged and in good condition. If that is true, then your charging system is good. How else cound the battery test good, if it wasn't charged ? Start with checking the starter interlock switches on the seat...

You can get small rare earth magnets which you can epoxy into the well of your std nut driver. Or, you can look for the nut driver sets next to the replaceable screw driver bits. Lots of those have magnets in them. Link to DeWalt bit set

Most engine wear occurs in those first moments after starting, during what we call "warm-up". Multi-grades come into their own in water-cooled engines and air-cooled engines that have a tremendous oil supply. This is simply due to the slower or "extended" warm-up times in those engines. In...

Let's hear it for those magnetic nut drivers ! (y)

Toro/Exmark makes some of the best residential mowers available, in all categories. Exmark is to Toro, what Lexus is to Toyota. Exmark will be miles above anything from a "big box store" in reliability, ease of maintenance, parts availability, and noise. I posted a review HERE of my 44" Exmark...