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Wiring diagram... https://www.partstree.com/models/301215be-80857-snapper-30-rear-engine-riding-mower-12hp/wiring-schematic-for-9-10-12-and-16hp-briggs-21/

Need the Snapper model #. And Briggs # would help - eg: 28A707-12344-E1

Need the model #. Eg: 28A707-1234-E1. Probably on a shroud. If not fuel starved, like ILENGINE said... Coil getting hot and failing? Run engine. When quits running - pull plug, ground plug, have buddy pull rope, look for spark.

Points and condenser haven't been in mowers for 30 - 40, maybe 50 years. It's all solid state electronic module now.

You can test 1* and 2* resistance with an ohmmeter but even if in specs, coil can still be bad. Check youtube for how-to. If I ground the plug, have a buddy pull rope and I don't get spark...I may test FW magnets (but never seen bad ones). Normally, just get another coil.

No, impulse is air/maybe a little fuel to make fuel pump diaphragm vibrate - that pulls fuel from tank thru the line with the fuel pickup. Impulse comes from piston going up & down. I've only had 1 of these tiny 4 strokes that I fixed (sheared FW key), so I'm no expert. But I was not impressed -...

They'll be a model # somewhere. May be on the block with dot stamping. Eg: 104M02-0021-F1

https://shop.okcpropower.com/black-max-black-max-lawn-mower-parts-for-model-96144000700-detail.htm?productid=-3895853 It's Husqvarna Outdoor Products - HOP. Above is one parts house with a diagram. Black Max Lawn Mower parts for Model 96144000700.

Just looked at that carb...make sure the impulse hole at 10 o'c is not blocked by the gasket. Gotta have push/pull on the fuel pump diaphragm.

Well, if it runs normally for a short while on a fuel charge...you have compression and proper spark timing. Fuel delivery problem seems most likely. Maybe bad new carb?

MTD tiny 4 cycle. Troy Bilt has them and they are known to have valve problems that you can't fix - I guess the reason for buying a short block. Try throttle up while the carb cleaner charge is burning. You do have good fuel lines? You do purge air and see fuel moving back to tank?

Need the model #...EG: 126M02-0125-F1 Code XXXXXXXX. Probably on a shroud near muffler.

What's the engine model #? On a shroud or valve cover.

That # comes up as a Mastercraft, made by MTD. Don't even see an IPL available. Would need to figure what Yard Machines model is the same. Still need the engine model #. If Briggs, something like 28A707-0122-02. Will be on a shroud covering cylinder fins.

Mower model # and Engine model # are needed. Kill wire to coil burned and grounding? Pull plug, re-insert in boot, ground metal on engine, turn key - spark?

If saw starts and idles normally.... Throttle rod from finger trigger binding. Throttle spring is weak or so gummed up - it doesn't snap the throttle plate back. Or finger trigger is so gunked up, it adds too much resistance to spring. Pull air filter cover and watch what is happening. Spray...

So, there are 2 kill wires coming off coil? Pull both off and try to start. You can pull air filter and put thumb over carb throat to kill it. Is this machine under warranty? It's the dealer problem then.

I'd definitely want a fiber/paper gasket between case halves.

Unless you stumble upon a NOS gasket, you'll need a gasket paper sheet and make one.

The pinion gear must move up the "barber pole" to turn the flywheel teeth. You need watch it as you turn key. May have to remove recoil / blower housing.

If they don't part that low....Is this just a solenoid hanging on the starter? If so, I'd think a generic $10 solenoid would send big amps to starter. Probably need longer 4 or 6 or 8 gauge cables and smaller activate wire.

that's it - 2014 Aug 1st

Thanks, Chris.

No, before cleaning. All I found on block. Must be pre-GCV times.

AfterMarket and UltraSonic Cleaned. I'll check the block. Thanks.

Thanks, Chris. I've already had the carb off and USC-ed. Tried unscrewing the jet and went all ham fisted. Buggered it up pretty good. I want to try a new AM carb. Where do I find GXV140 xxxx #? Here are removal pics.

A neighbor gave me above. First Honda I've had. I'm checking it over, seeing about parts . Carb is so bad that I want a new one. I input the serial GJAB-6575242 into Honda parts and got "not found". Maybe it's older than 2004. Just searching for HRM215 carb, I see 16100-ZG9-010. Does that seem...

You still haven't posted the engine model #....eg: 126M02-1525-F1. Probably on the shroud above the muffler.

Post a pic of it. I pulled the carb off an HU700F last week and don't recall any fuel line trouble.

Most clamps are a band but could be a wire with a 9 and a reverse 9 on the ends. You treat them the same way - pliers.

Good deal, E. Maxwell. And War Eagle!

You can measure the conduit length and cable length, then find a generic replacement. I just used this one from ebay - it was a little long but no problem. A little short - now, that'd be a problem. I drilled a new hole in the handle side to secure cable at the proper place. Lawn Mower...

Pull your air filter and look at the choke plate. It should be totally closed when engine cold. If not...1. Air Vane is out of adjustment. 2. Air vane spring is bad.3. Tstat is bad. 4. Lots of crud in there keeping air vane from moving freely.

Remove air filter and try a squirt of fuel directly into carb throat. ~ tbl spoon amount. If it pops and runs for 2-3 secs = fuel delivery/carb problem.

Suspect carb is dirty and varnished. You can get an overhaul kit, then clean and rebuild carb. Should be Briggs 498260. You may get by just with removing bowl (careful with gasket or you'll need one) and rod out jet with phone wire. Check youtube for videos. A simpler solution (esp if new at...

You can post on FB or CL - "Any hobby mechanics in area x? I have a mower not starting."

The engine model # is probably on the shroud above the muffler.

I just had a GCV160 to repair. It was odd. 1 pull start when engine totally cold. 2-4 pull start when engine slightly warm.

Put a squirt of fuel in plug hole. A full straw will work. Re-install plug & wire. Pull rope and see if she pops and runs 2 secs. If so, it's a fuel delivery problem.

https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/engine_specs/briggs_head_torques.asp Most all Briggs flatheads 6hp and smaller are 140 in lbs.

With plug out, you can get enough RPMs to see spark even with half a recoil spring. Are you grounding the plug on cyl fins? If not, try again. Post the engine model #. Will be near the plug or muffler. Eg: 09J902-0133-F1. The first 6 characters are what really matters. Search engine # - you'll...

On most mowers, you can see the choke plate after pulling the air filter. Maybe the air filter housing blocks it here and need to remove it.

Search web for Briggs 135212 and you can see the IPL. I just had a newer flathead - Briggs 126M02 with 0 compression. The exhaust valve seat had come out and valve was stuck open on it

Maybe bad new solenoid...the plate is bouncing on 2 big poles instead of connecting firmly. Maybe bad new starter. You can test these parts off the tractor.

Make sure battery is fully charged. Can you turn flywheel by hand? Try it with spark plugs out. Sounds like starter pinion is bouncing on flywheel teeth.

If valves are set correctly, could be compression release has failed. Don't know what it is on Kohler...some are levers that tick a valve at low RPM, some are a funny ground camshaft. Other possibilities: Weak starter, Poor electrical connections in circuit to starter, Poor ground from battery...

Measure center to center between 2 mounting holes. If it's 30.5mm, then any cube carb from a 25cc trimmer to a Husqvarna 272 saw will fit. You need to have impulse hole match the intake impulse slot - but most are at 12 o/c. Figure out how many cc the engine is. That's a serious muffler for a...

Need the engine model #s or just guessing. Sounds like you need a primer bulb to shoot fuel into the intake. Eg: A Briggs 10T502 will never start w/o 3-5 primer shots.

https://www.m-and-d.com/pdfs/briggs/82900-ms4889-0188.pdf carburetor assembly 298567

For best answer, need the model # under the seat. Eg. 917.xxxxxx Normally, they are near the starter, on the metal "floor" or metal "wall" of the chassis....one big red wire to starter, one big red wire to the battery. and 1 little wire to the key switch.