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Pull your spark plug and spin it with the starter to make sure there is nothing mechanically wrong with the internals, this will also test your starter / battery etc. This should isolate the problem and get you going in the right direction If it ran low on oil - bad things can happen in the...

I'd change spark plugs first - easy to do and might correct your problem - possibly the plug is failing when hot. If it eventually starts that pretty much eliminates the solenoid on the carb.

Agree with Berts mobile 1- the Green group has lots of people drinking the Koolaid regarding environmental issues - Cow Farts ? really ? Small gas engines that run 15-20 times a year for a few hrs at a time . Now trying to ban Gas Stoves - what's next no more burping ?

Goin to need some history on this machine also model etc. There are bypass levers to take the transmissions out of service - maybe they are engaged ?

I've tried to bypass all the safeties before and didn't work for me, ended up pulling the relays all together and rewiring my machine without all the safeties and ended my headache - pretty sure the relays are in Series so each one needs to satisfy the next etc. Jump your solenoid and verify...

It's rare I can clean a carburator good enough to correct an issue like this - usually just change it out with a new one - most are under 20 bux on Amazon - I have installed a primer bulb on machines that previously didn't have one to overcome this type of problem although usually they will...

Just add till it gets to the full mark , run a few minutes and recheck - some of these engines say just stick the dip stick in the fit and do not screw it all the way down

Look it up on Amazon , take a picture of yours and compare , amazon will show the carb in 360 degree view , I've gotten a few like this and they're almost always correct - Usually it will list all the engines it is Compatible with

In order for the guys to offer advise you need to post a little background information such as how was it running prior to this , what did the exhaust look like ? Was there any odd noises while it ran, was it getting hard to start over time ? How was the power , was it missing etc.

I've found that once a belt rolls over like this , it will continue to do so, Make sure your idler pully is " floating " and not static

Pretty sure it gets a " Pulse " feed signal from the coil / spark plug wire -no ground needed that I'm aware of

Most are pretty straight forward, - Power --- On--- Start --- Aux if needed mostly not needed.

Look at your fuel source, supply side hose / tank etc. I sometimes run a new fuel line bypassing filters etc straight from a container of clean fuel - to eliminate supply side issues, is there a fuel pump involved ? These diaphram pumps sometimes go bad - I keep an electric 12 volt pump handy...

I've swapped ignition switches on lots of machines , you can get a universal switch at your local parts house

Some hr meters Get a signal from the coil / spark plug wire, that may be the case here. If so, your machine will need to be running for the meter to respond

Replacing the head will not do anything for a smoking engine, sounds like the valve guides are leaking a bit, it's really not an issue for most people - unlikely the owner wants to throw more money at it if it's doing what you say

Replacing the head will not do anything for a smoking engine, sounds like the valve guides are leaking a bit, it's really not an issue for most people - unlikely the owner wants to throw more money at it if it's doing what you say

Pull the flywheel and look at your Key - sometimes when backfiring it will shear the key and throw it off time

That Solenoid needs 12volts to open and let fuel into the machine , if you cut the wire , there's your problem Also the Solenoid keeps it from backfiring when you kill the ignition If you have compression and it runs , doubtful you have a valve clearance issue

If it was getting too much gas it would be running out of the carb, the float may be stuck or is there a solenoid shut off under the bowl ? Post a few pics if you can

Sounds like the fuel pump is not working, I keep a small electric fuel pump on hand to use when I run into an issue where I think the fuel pump is bad. You probably have the diaphram type pump and it has dry rotted over time.

Still sounds like the starter, pull it off the machine , clamp it down tight and put 12 volts on the terminal and ground the starter it should spin freely if it doesn't it's bad , just touch it off on the terminal don't hold it on there for very long

It's most likely your starter , when you jump the solenoid you are putting 12vt directly to the starter , if it doesn't turn over , it's the starter in nearly all cases

Not sure what model carb you have but I have cleaned many carbs, take a pic of the linkage the way it's connected , that's all you need worry about regarding linkage. pull the bowl and spray through ever port you can see , I use regular penetrating oil with a straw insert to pin point my...

Oh you can bet this Green Agenda is making lots of politicians lots of money otherwise there would be no push in that direction, There is only concern about our environment when it's profitable for them.

Just more green agenda being shoved down our throat in my opinion , Doubtful any battery powered mower or other lawn equipment will hold up for very long , then they've got you over a barrel for parts etc.

check the wires at the clutch for short to ground when you pull your clutch switch. If there is no reading to ground , it aint your switch , clutch or those wires. There are several safety relays that all tie in to the same circuit I would hop 12 volts to the " clutch " wire + with engine...

If your starter engages and spins freely with no load ,it's most probably still good.your solenoid is the issue for sure

You should have 12 volts at one of the large terminals on the solenoid all the time. Use a screw driver or pliers to short that terminal to the other large terminal on the solenoid. If the starter is ok it will engage, if it doesn't it's bad , pull the starter and bench test with jumper cables...

Rod knocks don't come and go, if it's really a rod you're hearing you need to open the case and inspect the internals or the rod will work loose and come through the block

Install a primer bulb no need to choke

I would imagine the machine is matched with a single Barrell carb for a reason / probably balanced for the exhaust ports etc. Double carb might throw that off and cause you some heartburn but I'm only guessing.

Sounds like you did a pretty good job on the rebuild - in my experience the timing on these small gas engines is not very tolerant, if they key is not showing any type of sheering it's in time - " unless you missed the cam gear tooth " mis matched with the crank but I seriously doubt it would...

How does it run without engaging the PTO ? Unlikely to be the clutch - if it's worn out - will probably not spin the deck belt I would look at all your spindles and verify the bearings are not seizing up - do you smell smoke like the belts are starting to burn when it bogs down ? Does this...

Think I would uncouple the engine from the pump first and tackle that issue - the pump can come later- the fact that it was surging while running with no / load indicates the governor hunting which points to dirty fuel/ carb etc. If you can't find a manual or parts break down on line I'd get...

Never ran across an engine with no governor but guess it's possible, I've swapped engines over a few times and had to install a throttle cable for some for one reason or another and didn't have any issues

post a few pics

Found the starter was causing all the problems

Ran across this one time before , had to install a Cog Belt don't know why but it stopped the belt from fall off

You can leave it on full time if you choose but it's not going to make the battery last any longer than it normally wood. Pretty sure it will only generate a charge when the battery tells it to. One thing to note if it's constantly hooked up to a charging system you'll need to keep an eye on...

I ran across one similar to this once - found 2 things going on , one was it was a bit low on oil so the oil level sensor would come into play after it would fire off and shut it down, the other thing was the fuel cap was not vented. Give it a shot of starting fluid and see how it reacts.

Spray on after everything is cleaned up and tight with good contact

I always start with a little starting fluid in the intake- if it hits and tries to start- it's a fuel problem - if not, it's ignition then you know which path to go down.

After cleaning or installing any battery - I always spray with an anti corrosion spray - it coats all the connections and seems to help - rare to have a battery last as long as yours has - unless they "load tested" I'm betting its bad still - HFT sells a load tester for about 20$ I think -...

You may be at the point where you need to just pull the pump. Look it over closely and find the ID tag, they all have them- you'll need to pull it anyway if it's not working. After pulling it you can roll the pully by hand and verify the shaft is in fact turning or not. My understanding is...

It's the Battery, you can use jumper cables to prove it but 2 yrs old battery with Cold temps - this is the culprit

Look over the belt first, elevate the machine and have someone run the drive while you watch to see what's goin on underneath Maybe only a belt or pully issue, these hydraulic motors are pretty durable - I've never seen a bad one even on older machines. Also look at the travel of your shifting...

Carburator is most likely dirty , pull it - clean and try again. Might pay to buy a new carb - the soft goods are probably dry rotted after that long

Get a new switch with a new key sounds like yours it worn

Brake safety switch probably needs replacing or adjusting take it off and work it by hand and watch your light react to it , if it's intermittent / bad switch / if works otherwise it's an adjustment issue be my guess