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Get your Shots. We can't kill Stupid but Covid can.

Be sure you have the correct belt. Thicker belts need to be somewhat longer as they ride higher in the pulleys. Check spindles and idlers for signs of seizing up.

I have had many of the cheaper models of J.D. lawn tractors. I inherited an X320 with Kawasaki engine, 48" and the cut is far above the 100 series. Totally different deck hanging assembly. New trans at 280 hrs!!!!

Yardmaster and possibly other engines have a small screen behind the 90° elbow that feeds fuel to the carb. PULL out that fitting and check. If there is a tiny screen, blow it clean and hopefully out from Needle side. In any event get/leave that screen out and put a serious filter on the fuel...

Take your meds.

If it is Brass, get a new fitting and solder it on.

You can get a small solid state item that can be wired in without fly wheel removal. Had it done on old Rototiller. It replaces the points.

If it is the spindles you are greasing from the side, the grease does nothing but fill a void. If the grease nipple is on top, it likely unscrews when it hits the frame when deck is raised.

ACDC huh?

I always put on the Shrink Sleeve FIRST! Usually Crimp/Solder then cover with Permatex Aircraft Gasket cement, allow to dry and then shrink on Insulation sleeve after trimming any burnt wire insulation. There are many ways to do this.

It appears to be the Stud that holds on the Electric Clutch to me. There should also be a key. Have you checked rear axle/wheel bolts, the centre one, some with keys? Idler pulley may be missing a stud.

What OldDiyer said!

Remove and clean the Spark Plug. Spray it with Brake or Carb cleaner. Let dry and reinstall. Spray a bit of 'Quick Start' into the Air Breather with Choke OPEN and pull several times. Then try with choke on slightly.

Remove and check carb float for free fall then remove and clean jets. One at a time.

First try lubricating the Bendix (spring return) drive. Grooves in shaft. . When you try to start, the gear should spin out to the end and starter rotate freely. Release the key and the bendix spring should return it to park.

Put in a known fully charged Battery and try it. Then look for clean battery and starter connections. Then look for loose terminal block near Key.

Check to see if you have not pinched off a fuel line during repairs and that you do have fuel. After leaving it sit for 20 min, give it a shot of Quick Start and pull the rope, choke mostly open.

I have an X320 and I love the way it cuts. 4" is way too high for me in Southern ON. I have it set so the bogey wheels barely touch/rotate. You might look and under deck adjustments to Deck Hangers.

Take your meds.

I stuff small chicken wire around the Fan shroud so they cannot get in.

Hopefully if there are timing gears, they were installed correctly. Timing marks on each. Check coil to Flywheel clearance (a stiff business card) and that the key was put in the crank to Flywheel groove. Try it with dry spark plug in and connected and with Starting Fluid. If it does not fire...

You would not hear the KEY clanking as it is too small and captive in its' location. Engine is destroyed. Bent rod likely. Can you see the piston going up and down via the spark plug hole? YOU didn't Total your mower, your Neighbour did. He owes you a replacement in kind.

Never lend your tools, equipment, vehicles or girlfriend. They will not come back in the same condition as before. Your engine is destroyed. Likely ran without sufficient oil. Tell your neighbour to buy you a New comparable mower or never speak to him again.

NEVER jump a lawnmower from a Car. You could destroy the Charging system. Check Lawnmower Negative ground connection to frame. It should be shiny and tight. Attach + battery side to Starter electrical lug with one cable. No open fuel around.

No.

Just replaced the tranny on my X320 at 280 flat lawn hours!!!! Garbage. Tranny, new drive belt and idler pulleys, $1,810 Cdn. I tried adding some 80-90 Hydraulic fluid to very clean trans oil. No help. When hot you better be at the top of a small grade!

You have a big mess there. Try the sharp punch to break up the Torx bit. Washer and nut and MIG weld stud to washer and 1/2" nut. Heat the head in the area and give it a try. Check the head for flat, if warped find a donor head or get a new one.

Be sure that the oil is not overfilled and that the Crankcase vent hose and vent are clear. If that is not the case, park it at the curb. It owes you nothing.

Correct!

I have had a variety of 100 Series John Deere. L160 was a great one. I inherited an X 320 which is actually made by John Deere. Incredible cutting, totally different deck Setup. 22 HP Kawasaki engine and 48" cut. Totally pleased with it.

Sounds like it is flooding. Carefully remove float and needle and wipe tip clean. Allow fuel to flow. Check emulsion tube holes and the very tiny one on the bottom of the bowl jet at top of threads if it has one.

Remove, clean and gap or replace spark plugs.

Use a wire from the Wire Brush.

Mow the slope up and down or move.

You may have more that one problem. Brake lever should be On and both tiller handles spread out to start if it is wired correctly and similar to Ferris zero turn. Red rarely connects to Black wire. + cable from battery goes to solenoid IN. Another cable goes from the other post of Solenoid...

Drain the oil, replace the plug and wait a week to be sure that fuel is not getting into the Crankcase. Remove spark plugs and turn it over a few times. You may have the wrong dipstick, but fill it slowly until it indicates FULL and drive it!

Remove float bowl and jets. Pass a wire through all the holes. There are very tiny ones hidden on the threads of Float bowl jet on some models. Slide out the float pin, and carefully remove Float and Needle valve. Be prepared to close fuel line or valve. Re assemble and try it. New Premium Fuel.

Mowers with a Button can be fixed by removing the switch and connecting wires. Same BS that requires the stupid foot pedals for forward and reverse instead of a handy lever that also acts as cruise control. Thank the STUPID people of the world for all this BS.

An impact gun on the crank while prying on 2 sides works wonders.

WOT Wide Open Throttle. WFO ???

It is running lean but put that plastic Insulator back between Carb and Cylinder. It is there for a purpose. You may have to drill out main jet a bit. Are you keeping engine shrouds in place/

Don't get too hasty on the carb rebuild. Remove the Jets and clean all orifices with wire from wire brush. Dump old fuel and put new Fuel Filter on.

Check that deck is mounted correctly. You may be able to loosen off the 2 nuts at the back of the deck if it is the model I am thinking of to give more slack. Note original placement.

I always used High Gear to help start a towed vehicle....

Nasty situation. I would carefully drill a 1/8" hole at the very base of the Boss at the crack site all the way through the Flywheel until you find a replacement. Do not over tighten, use a New Key.

Try carefully heating one side of the boss with a propane torch. Then quench with cold water. Apply some penetrant spray for a few days. You could drill and tap it and install a smaller plug.. A sump pump is the best idea.

As suggested previously, determine which pulley is not rotating. Follow logical progression of belt around idlers and work pulleys. Worry about the Brakes later after you determine that they are fully released.

Remove and clean all Battery and starter Cable connections. Use a file/wire brush etc. With Car or other 12VDC source OFF, connect + to Starter and - to Clean solid surface on engine like mounting bolts. Work backwards from there....other side of solenoid etc. NEVER TRY TO BOOST A SMALL ENGINE...