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Most are pretty straight forward, - Power --- On--- Start --- Aux if needed mostly not needed.

Look at your fuel source, supply side hose / tank etc. I sometimes run a new fuel line bypassing filters etc straight from a container of clean fuel - to eliminate supply side issues, is there a fuel pump involved ? These diaphram pumps sometimes go bad - I keep an electric 12 volt pump handy...

I've swapped ignition switches on lots of machines , you can get a universal switch at your local parts house

Some hr meters Get a signal from the coil / spark plug wire, that may be the case here. If so, your machine will need to be running for the meter to respond

Replacing the head will not do anything for a smoking engine, sounds like the valve guides are leaking a bit, it's really not an issue for most people - unlikely the owner wants to throw more money at it if it's doing what you say

Replacing the head will not do anything for a smoking engine, sounds like the valve guides are leaking a bit, it's really not an issue for most people - unlikely the owner wants to throw more money at it if it's doing what you say

Pull the flywheel and look at your Key - sometimes when backfiring it will shear the key and throw it off time

That Solenoid needs 12volts to open and let fuel into the machine , if you cut the wire , there's your problem Also the Solenoid keeps it from backfiring when you kill the ignition If you have compression and it runs , doubtful you have a valve clearance issue

If it was getting too much gas it would be running out of the carb, the float may be stuck or is there a solenoid shut off under the bowl ? Post a few pics if you can

Sounds like the fuel pump is not working, I keep a small electric fuel pump on hand to use when I run into an issue where I think the fuel pump is bad. You probably have the diaphram type pump and it has dry rotted over time.

Still sounds like the starter, pull it off the machine , clamp it down tight and put 12 volts on the terminal and ground the starter it should spin freely if it doesn't it's bad , just touch it off on the terminal don't hold it on there for very long

It's most likely your starter , when you jump the solenoid you are putting 12vt directly to the starter , if it doesn't turn over , it's the starter in nearly all cases

Not sure what model carb you have but I have cleaned many carbs, take a pic of the linkage the way it's connected , that's all you need worry about regarding linkage. pull the bowl and spray through ever port you can see , I use regular penetrating oil with a straw insert to pin point my...

Oh you can bet this Green Agenda is making lots of politicians lots of money otherwise there would be no push in that direction, There is only concern about our environment when it's profitable for them.

Just more green agenda being shoved down our throat in my opinion , Doubtful any battery powered mower or other lawn equipment will hold up for very long , then they've got you over a barrel for parts etc.

check the wires at the clutch for short to ground when you pull your clutch switch. If there is no reading to ground , it aint your switch , clutch or those wires. There are several safety relays that all tie in to the same circuit I would hop 12 volts to the " clutch " wire + with engine...

If your starter engages and spins freely with no load ,it's most probably still good.your solenoid is the issue for sure

You should have 12 volts at one of the large terminals on the solenoid all the time. Use a screw driver or pliers to short that terminal to the other large terminal on the solenoid. If the starter is ok it will engage, if it doesn't it's bad , pull the starter and bench test with jumper cables...

Rod knocks don't come and go, if it's really a rod you're hearing you need to open the case and inspect the internals or the rod will work loose and come through the block

Install a primer bulb no need to choke

I would imagine the machine is matched with a single Barrell carb for a reason / probably balanced for the exhaust ports etc. Double carb might throw that off and cause you some heartburn but I'm only guessing.

Sounds like you did a pretty good job on the rebuild - in my experience the timing on these small gas engines is not very tolerant, if they key is not showing any type of sheering it's in time - " unless you missed the cam gear tooth " mis matched with the crank but I seriously doubt it would...

How does it run without engaging the PTO ? Unlikely to be the clutch - if it's worn out - will probably not spin the deck belt I would look at all your spindles and verify the bearings are not seizing up - do you smell smoke like the belts are starting to burn when it bogs down ? Does this...

Think I would uncouple the engine from the pump first and tackle that issue - the pump can come later- the fact that it was surging while running with no / load indicates the governor hunting which points to dirty fuel/ carb etc. If you can't find a manual or parts break down on line I'd get...

Never ran across an engine with no governor but guess it's possible, I've swapped engines over a few times and had to install a throttle cable for some for one reason or another and didn't have any issues

post a few pics

Found the starter was causing all the problems

Ran across this one time before , had to install a Cog Belt don't know why but it stopped the belt from fall off

You can leave it on full time if you choose but it's not going to make the battery last any longer than it normally wood. Pretty sure it will only generate a charge when the battery tells it to. One thing to note if it's constantly hooked up to a charging system you'll need to keep an eye on...

I ran across one similar to this once - found 2 things going on , one was it was a bit low on oil so the oil level sensor would come into play after it would fire off and shut it down, the other thing was the fuel cap was not vented. Give it a shot of starting fluid and see how it reacts.

Spray on after everything is cleaned up and tight with good contact

I always start with a little starting fluid in the intake- if it hits and tries to start- it's a fuel problem - if not, it's ignition then you know which path to go down.

After cleaning or installing any battery - I always spray with an anti corrosion spray - it coats all the connections and seems to help - rare to have a battery last as long as yours has - unless they "load tested" I'm betting its bad still - HFT sells a load tester for about 20$ I think -...

You may be at the point where you need to just pull the pump. Look it over closely and find the ID tag, they all have them- you'll need to pull it anyway if it's not working. After pulling it you can roll the pully by hand and verify the shaft is in fact turning or not. My understanding is...

It's the Battery, you can use jumper cables to prove it but 2 yrs old battery with Cold temps - this is the culprit

Look over the belt first, elevate the machine and have someone run the drive while you watch to see what's goin on underneath Maybe only a belt or pully issue, these hydraulic motors are pretty durable - I've never seen a bad one even on older machines. Also look at the travel of your shifting...

Carburator is most likely dirty , pull it - clean and try again. Might pay to buy a new carb - the soft goods are probably dry rotted after that long

Get a new switch with a new key sounds like yours it worn

Brake safety switch probably needs replacing or adjusting take it off and work it by hand and watch your light react to it , if it's intermittent / bad switch / if works otherwise it's an adjustment issue be my guess

I worked on a Toro with belt slippage , had to go to a " COG" type belt and it did the trick

I used to keep a hand written daily diary when I was told to do anything I thought was against my better judgment - just whip it out when things went south - always came to my rescue when finger pointing started after failure- no one else had anything to fall back on

Ehco

I've seen some crazy designs on Kubota mowers, this looks like one of them

Pull the flywheel and see if the key is sheared or even partially sheared , this will throw off the ignition timing ,backfiring will contribute to this

Timing being off would keep it from running at all , might backfire on you while trying to start though, Can't see any way this could cause it to not turn over good though, Pull the plugs and see if it turns over good then go from there, if it does not turn over easy with NO compression ...

Post some Pictures of the Husky , I've rewired a number of these machines but I'm down in southwest Louisiana so not much help probably

Check your ground wire first , then test voltage at the starter solenoid, ignition switch etc. A little history on when this took place and how it's been running prior as well ,

This is the reason I will not get a Spartan , mower looks OK but key pad issues scared me off, If it was Me, I'd disconnect it all together, buy a regular ignition switch, choke and cable assembly, and blade engagement switch, you will need to wire it up from there, ( be aware the warranties /...

After the Stator test mentioned above, hook the same two leads up to the voltage regulator you should see 14 volts or so there, also the voltage regulator needs to see 12 volts from the ignition

This happens sometimes when the Low Oil Level safety triggers