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upon seeing that incline and the size of it, I would not recommend an ordinary residential zero turn gasser. I think bertsmobile1 has the best advice...diesel mower..just realize that is going to be costly. another idea besides the shrubs and berry trees he has suggested is to landscape...

OR just use a standard full synthetic? just asking your opinion...most ppl are happy and fine with using standard auto oil on their air cooled 4 strokes...I've always used full synthetic...simply because it has a better thermal property and will not break down over time due to heat. also...

I am going to suggest simple....look at your choke linkage and springs...also look at your throttle valve to governor linkage and main spring and damper spring. Sometimes that linkage gets damaged from debris, branches, twigs...and or the springs are missing. Without those linkages and springs...

on a hunch here... at what altitude is your property for this mower? high altitude...rich mixture..low power....low power = premature hydrodrive wear? noting: for every 1,000 feet of altitude of elevation above sea level, the typical gasoline engine will lose about 3 percent of power...(less...

for what it's worth: check tensioner puller arm...make sure it swings freely...sometimes they get stuck with rust, corrosion, grass muck...etc. check this at the pulley wheel bearing and also the pulley arm. While you have it unloaded from spring pressure, see if the tensioner pulley rocks...

look at carb gaskets closest to engine air intake. It's possible you might have an air leak... not totally familiar with this engine, but if it has one of those hard plastic block intake-to-carb spacers, look for a crack..look for any small crack or defect in the carb body itself...like maybe a...

couple of thoughts. considering the two crank oil channels were not drilled, there is a non zero chance that if you did a DIY drill out or water jet the crank will not be balanced...no? I've never done the machining myself, but it would appear that removing that much material in two directions...

just a suggestion. check your battery again. there is a non zero possibility that the key START switch is borked or even the starter solenoid, and thus full energy is being applied to flywheel starter, thus it remains extended. This would be very rare that this happens, but I would still...

there really isn't anything particularly special with any of the premix 2 C fuel. Marketing would suggest you can store this fuel for up to two years ...but I would never try to test that theory out...especially if the can was opened. In a rare situation I might buy a can of it for a one time...

when I lurk, it's usually to follow your expert knowledge and guidance. Well done!

ENGINE OFF: check the PTO clutch connector...small electrical connector. CAREFULLY remove it (there is usually a plastic locking safety tab)...clean it with wd-40 and blast that sucker with compressed air. check the pins and made sure there is no corrosion or damage...both sides of the...

first things first..make sure the rpm gauge is accurate. Sometimes they don't work properly or the sensor wire is not attached properly or worn down....verify this if you can with a separate tach meter...they are cheap. But if you don' t have a separate tach meter to verify then skip this and...

if you have PROFESSIONALLY FACED the upper cylinder head and main block? (I'm skeptical...not saying you did not do it...but there is a world of difference between DIY truing and professional). so if you removed to much material, it may be difficult to actually get valve clearance set...no...

in ALL THE YEARS (DECADES!) I have serviced Hydrostatic Motor Drives I have NEVER used a torque wrench to install filters OR top filler plugs! EVER! You are talking about using a "cheater" bar to install filters and a plug and red flag warning bells going off in my mind! Read the service...

couple of ideas: never assume new batteries are good. Try to bypass your battery. I use my truck battery and "jump/bypass" the mower battery (if you don't have a load tester). If the mower rolls over and starts...you have a bad battery or a low state of charge. solve that. recharge the...

when you say "nothing"...please elaborate. for example... 1. when key turn to START = you hear the anti back fire solenoid clicking or not? 2. when key turn to START = the engine rolls over but does not start? 3. when key turn to START = engine rolls over sometimes, but hesitates to roll over...

a commercial grade machine is going to get heavy duty frequent hard use. As a matter of reality, these machines are generally designed with serviceability and reliability as top priority. But what this really means is that the machine must be maintained, cleaned, greased and adjusted and...

I agree..if this is a new machine with a warranty, get it serviced and repaired for free. doing repairs will risk a warranty issue definitely.

334 hrs past time to do the valve clearance maintenance. get the kawasaki service manual. And be aware there is a KNOWN error in the service manual with respect to valve clearance gap! If you have questions about this, you will not be the first person to notice there is an error in the...

without knowing specifics, look at voltages in voltage regulator. on many mowers, there is also a charging system diode installed in the charging system circuit. While these rarely fail, they can fail. another reasons for an overcharging condition is not related to charging system circuit...

troubleshooting: 1. make sure the belt is actually the right size...right length, correct width. take the old belt and set it next to new belt...they should be identical. Sometimes you order something and the wrong item is shipped..it happens. 2. if the old belt was worn out, maybe it is...

there are lots of reasons to run a mower at wide open throttle and all of them are good reasons. 1. proper fuel air mix for the engine design....these are simple carburetors...not variable valve and not electronic ignition...timing and fuel air mix is best at wide open throttle for best engine...

thanks, and I appreciate your feedback. I apologize for not updating this thread more quickly. Please read my reply to BOATMOTER. blown head gaskets..both...small leaks. Also see what I replaced them with. solid copper head gaskets with copper spray dressing (permatex). No...

this is head gasket I bought...cheaper than the improved kawasaki superceded gaskets...and better heat transfer...no squish problems because they are exactly the same thickness dimensionally as the original "unimproved" simple stamped aluminum gaskets...

The governor is not the problem. it's perfectly adjusted (I tried both ways too, just to make sure I had it in full sweep). The carb is not defective. I put the old carb in and it still surges. It's a V twin....I mentioned this weird condition in the first post: when pulling EITHER of the...

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a cheap and easy way to kill and engine ....install a fuel line shutoff valve. I place one close to the carb. I do this because I want to engine to use up all of the fuel in the bowl when not in use. Like long storage over winter months. It makes a big difference not letting fuel just sit...

you don't have to be an electrical engineer (or a 25 year "briggs" specialist, like the jackwagon in this thread), to understand how to use a volt meter and measure volts and amps. Try it sometimes... it's 12 volts to the fuel solenoid....it's far below one amp...it IS NOT PART OF THE CHARGING...

if it starts and runs and there is no other performance problems other than just a hard pull start...then it's probably going to be either and overfilled oil...or there is some trash wrapped around the mower blades/spindle. I am assuming there is no blade engagement switch (like a PTO) on this...

you don't have to be an electrical engineer (or a 25 year "briggs" specialist, like the jackwagon in this thread), to understand how to use a volt meter and measure volts and amps. Try it sometimes... it's 12 volts to the fuel solenoid....it's far below one amp...it IS NOT PART OF THE CHARGING...

lol...its the fuel solenoid....do you even know what an electrical circuit IS for a fuel solenoid? in order for the solenoid TO OPERATE it must be completed to GROUND....negative ground CHASSIS. AND the circuit is part of the ignition. Without it, the ignition switch will NOT WORK. So to...

just curious to ask: what made you think the keyway/woodruff was the problem with timing? while it can happen, it's actually quite rare to see a keyway fail and slip. there are a few things you can do to diagnose a slipped or sloppy keyway. lock the flywheel down (anchor the blades so they...

testing the anti back fire fuel solenoid: remove the solenoid. It's has a narrow two flat "bolt"...I use a slim wrench from router tool. You can also use a slim open wrench...some folks grind them down to make them slim enough to fit. If you have a swissor style wire stripper, you can use...

I have new plugs inbound. I have the NGK OEM spec plugs right now, but it's a cheap and easy troubleshooting no doubt about it. Even if this isn't the problem I can always use a set of spares in the toolbox. Thanks!

ahhh.. I did not think about that. I will look at the wiring circuit for the talk back diode. Maybe both coil and connected to a single ground point? And if one of the coils is bad, then this causes surging but not when one of the coil plug wires is removed. that kind of makes sense. Like a...

Here is the issue. (before commenting/reply, please read the items I have replaced and checked already.) Issue: FR691V V twin motor starts up fine. When it starts, it begins to surge. RPM goes up and down. Governor rotates up and down. This surging happened no matter if at idle or at full...