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I left OPE on my own, they get vicious over and little slight to their inner circle, and break out their pitchforks over anything.

Dump out all of the fuel, and try to start without choke, and throttle locked open. Pull for a very long time, and eventually dry out enough to start. Also inspect the fuel you dumped out in a clean glass jar. After it starts then dies after burning up the excess fuel, put in fresh fuel and...

This is my favorite.

The handlebar versions are usually $40------$50 more. I prefer the loop handle, and the three point brush blade. You can get the finer teeth blades, but they are more tedious. I just put on the tri blade and whomp the weeds down. I also bought the chainsaw head, sicklebar head, and I bought...

Kind of. Usually the trimmer comes in a family, and it's sister models are almost identical except for engine size. The fs90, fs100, fs110 for example. Also be sure that the model you are looking for has the solid steel shaft if you want to use a blade. The fs91 handles a blade pretty well...

They are selling pretty good this year. I sell parts on e-bay. I part out new trimmers and saws.

Get some good Oregon Gatorline with the Kevlar core, I think I am running .105 alright.

Putting an OEM pawl in an after market starter may be your problem. The cheapo junk parts don't fit too well, as well as break often.

There is a tag usually under the seat area, post a pic of it.

"I have the service manual and it states a 494504s rod-connecting (standard) then it says: note 495490 rod-connecting (.020" Undersize) Wondering which one to order?" If the crankshaft is damaged then a machine shop may resurface the area, and you would use the undersized one. The vast...

Here is a book for a 778. https://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@hyd/documents/content/pll_1633.pdf

Does it look like this one?

Are you sure that you bought the correct keyswitch? They may look alike, but are wired differently.

Run it a while and keep an eye on the oil level, it takes a while sometimes to burn off excess oil after having an engine off and upside down.

If you ever need to get parts, the fs38 is the same trimmer, and is still made.

Yes, the aftermarket starter parts do not hold up very well, generally

There is a bunch of carbs we could be talking about. Got pics? Model numbers?

Was there a buildup of carbon on the heads?

Here is what I think Star Tech is talking about. Note the lobe closest to the gear.

The choke plates sometimes get shifted out of place, and it won't allow the choke to fully close.

No, I see the other carb, here is a better pic of the choke. Is this it?

Looking at that model number parts lists, makes it look like your carb does not have a choke. Or am I mistaken?

When youy relese the handle, it engages the engine brake, but also should shut off the condition. The thing in the video that you are rotating, should be rotated to the right to get full throttle, and when rotated to the left should slow down the engine, and if there is a kill wire attached it...

I agree, the drill is not fast enough in most cases.

" All the plastic and rubber items need to be out of the main body." Good advice to follow in all facets of life...

If it runs great otherwise, put an inline fuel shutoff on your fuel line, and shut it off when not running.

Here is a tech bulletin on carbon.

https://www.carcomplaints.com/news/2021/dollar-general-motor-oil-lawsuit-settlement.shtml

Cleaning and adjusting the points will help the starting., or converting over to electronic ignition.

Those saws have always been a bit stingy on oil.

Was the carb from the dealer a new one?

I have a stack of them, they do not sell very well I am tempted to try one out.

Take care on working on it. I vaguely remember reverse threads on a flywheel on a real old briggs.

Here is one of their hedge trimmer's blowups.

The part number of the tube of grease is at the bottom

Here is a snip out of the old Mediacat.

Scratches?

I have also seen a carb lose a screw in the throttle or choke plate, and an off center plate stick open in the throttle. So you might look at that.

Does the chain turn while cranking/starting?

Why do you need the rim off? I have changed tires while still on the mower. Not easy, but possible. You don't want to pull the axle out of the transaxle, it would turn into a different thread.

Why don't you raise the idle speed a bunch until it doesn't die anymore, and see where we are after that? It would give us a better idea.

Here is the one I pulled off my trimmer, it has the .095 line. The little notches are to hold the line in position until you get it correctly in the metal eyelets and snap the cover on.

I would try a thicker oil first as parts are very difficult to find for those.

One thing to consider on these old engines, is that over years of sitting around, beads of water sit in the bottom of the gas and rust things. Other than the actual rust, right under the carb is a little cup that is supposed to hold a bit of gas, but after time that cup develops rust holes, and...

Put up the model number on the take under the seat.

Mine gets pretty hot, I imagine in summertime, it really gets hot.

Yeah. I was asking BIGJACK. Why would someone do it?

How did you switch to a 4 post solenoid? How did you wire it?

FarmBoss is just a name that they put on certain models. We would need to know the actual model number.