Search results

You have corrosion or a loose connection that has caused the melting. The charging and starting should be separate circuits. Got other issues in the wiring likely.

I am last to this post and I hope the issue is resolved. The oil pressure relief spring is not under pressure when i stalled or engine not running. The service manual shows a free length spec on the spring, so only if it somehow became permanently compressed or broke, would it cause low oil...

It is unusual for an engine to surge and blow black smoke. Surging is either a lack of sufficient fuel flow or governor adjustment. If you grab the throttle shaft or throttle link or governor arm (whichever can be done safely), can you control the surge? If so, you have a governor/adjustment...

Hot or cold plug would be no issue. The "heat range" is the plugs ability to remove heat from the cylinder. Not the actual "burn" of the fuel mixture.

This model does not use an oil pressure switch, at least not from Kawasaki.

This model does not use an oil pressure switch, at least not from Kawasaki.

Could be flooded, yes. But, heat is not likely the issue unless the routing of the fuel line has been changed from where MTD originally routed it. I still suspect the coils or if there is spark.

As you know, the engine requires fuel, spark and compression. Since the engine ran previous, and given everything you wrote, it is either the coils or possibly the air gap.What the part number of the coils you received and what did you set the air gap to? Try moving the coils closer to the...

Well, first of all, all cutting the tip off a fuel solenoid does is make it a junk part. Assuming the fuel dumped into the intake is actually making it to the cylinders, you likely have a sticking valve would be where I would check.

Take a good look at the top of the carburetor. See if either of the welch plugs are missing. If either of the circles look like your carburetor, then it is not right.

How much of an increase are you seeing? Are you checking it the same way each time? Proper way, of course, is to set the dipstick on the fill tube, without screwing it down. If the increase is of significance, it is likely as Rivets mentioned.

Does applying choke tend to help smooth out the surge? If so, check to see if there is a Welch plug missing from the top of the carburetor body.

Oh, I apologize. I thought this was a help and information forum, didn't know it was a gripe session. Nothing to be learned by griping. I'll be on my way. Thanks, "experts".

I dont believe I wrote anything having to do with oil rigs and dirt. And, actually the foam pre-cleaner is primarily to help keep leaves and such out of the filter pleats. Who ever mentioned that was spot on. For those that feel better oiling their foam, go for it! It is not recommended by the...

I've seen well maintained Kawasaki engines used on oil rigs, with several thousand hours, where the bore looks as if it was just honed. Rings do not wear a cylinder if the engine is properly maintained. Anybody that knows this industry, knows John Deere is the king. How is it that JD would...

The difference in retail price between and FR and an FX "engine" is $200-300. Maybe on a mower there is $1k difference? If that is the case let me clarify. For those who do not do proper maintenance and fail their FR engine, replace it with an FX. It is ILLEGAL, as in a violation of EPA...

I could live with that 7394, as long as the oil is minimal, as to not wet the paper element. Seriously, if you live in the south, where there is more fine dirt than grass, spend the extra $ and get an FX engine. The FR filter is fine for those who are maintenance minded, but there is not near...

It is so appalling reading the advice of so called 'engine experts' on this forum. Why does the owners manual say to "tap out" the filter? That is because it is paper and any compressed air will damage it. Can you blow through a piece of paper? Only if it already has micro holes in it, like the...

What is the serial number of this engine?

Without a doubt. Either a holed or cracked float, taking on fuel, or the float sticking.

The solenoid would have no effect. All the solenoid does is prevent fuel from being drawn through the emulsion tube which helps to prevent afterfire when the engine is stopped. When replacing a float valve, it is best to clean the seat with a cotton swab and very mild abrasive, such as toothpaste.

Agree 100%, slomo. There are few good reasons to 'replace' a carburetor.

There is no "correct" setting with compression. On this engine, closer to 100 psi would be more typical. If the valve lash is properly set to around .005", and "your" gauge shows 145+, then thats what it is. If you have or know someone with another gauge, see what that one shows.

Sorry, I don't have a suggestion off the top of my head. But since this is obviously and older mower and if your pay check doesn't depend on this mower, you could try a China carb. They are less money and typically perform accordingly. Good luck.

Other options would be to look for an FH641V, 680V or 721V with the same externally vented carburetor. Lastly, switch to a newer internally vented carb. This would require also replacing the wire harness for the fuel solenoid. (Easy)

You would need to find a similar type that is still available. Then go through the parts list to see what the actual difference is, i.e., jetting may be the the only difference. This is easily switchable.

The compression is likely high. Has the valves been adjusted? If the spark plugs are sooty, this indicated a rich run condition.

The FR730V on Cub Cadet should still be the 1" x 3-5/32" pto.

You are correct, they can come with the 1-1/8" as well.

That is a BS24R spec. If the Cub Cadet also has the FR691V, it would be the same. As long as it is a FR or FS651, 691 or 730 and has a 1" diameter by 3-5/32" length crankshaft, you're good. FX would be fine as well, but the starter will be different.

The engine numbers you listed are actually the Big Dog model and serial. The Kawasaki engine numbers are on a white label on the fan housing.

If it is a similar engine, should not be an issue. The bolt pattern is the same. By similar, do you mean "same"? Like both have an FX691V, for example?

Yu You need to readjust the governor.

Kawasaki #16020-7003

The Kawasaki part number of the carburetor is 15003-7131. Kawasaki does not offer a kit for the FH engine carburetors. This engine is likely on a John Deere? Deere Deer might offer a kit. As far as the K1-LMF, this is Walbro's numbers, not Kawasaki's.

Whatever, lol. You hacks on these forums are a joke. If you think it is any more complicated than what I explained, is only puffing your shallow ego.

The minimum is 26 volt because when converted from AC to DC, the voltage is cut in half. Half of 26 is 13, obviously. 13 volts is more than the 12.7 (roughly) to fully charge the battery. Typical DC from the regulator is in the 14 volt +/- area. Most regulator specs are up to 15 volts max.

With respect to Telesis, it was a "minimum" of 26 volts. Charging coils are limited by the size of the windings, the number of windings, the magnet strength and the rotating speed of the magnet. Unregulated is typically 30 to 40 volts, AC. It is then the regulators job to rectify to DC and...

Amps mean nothing in terms of DC voltage output. Unregulated AC output of any charging coil is 26 volts minimum. If you have that, check the DC voltage of the battery. If say, 12.7 volts, mower not running, check again at battery with mower running at high idle. At the battery should be a...

Try a remote starter button. Connected to the starter battery terminal and the other end to the battery. (By-passing the mower wiring)

The part number of the carburetor will tell what hp the engine is. It will have engraved either a 5 digit number likely beginning with 4, or could have the whole number beginning with 1500. (1500x-xxxx).

Don't take it personal. Remember, you are dealing with a unit that is at least 25 years old. A lot of people have probably purged any information. I will get you and part number you want and any specs you want. Just ask.

You can contact me with any questions.

The point gap for the engine is, 0.3 - 0.5mm (.012"- 015"). The service manual that StarTech noted is no longer available from Kawasaki.

The PTO is not the same and the muffler mount is different as well. This FH will not direct replace your FR.

The engine is a FZ130D-_SO3. It is doubtful that you will find very many OEM parts. What parts are you looking for. I can at least give you the original part number.

If someone is that cheap as to not want to change their OE filter, as part of regular maintenance, then you should probably own a cow or a goat. I haven't see many proper suggestions on this blog. Mostly a bunch of hacks.

This should win the red-neck of the year award.

There is no published service life. The service life is dependent on the proper maintenance and care given. An engine that is 20 years old or more, lets say, is not still running because it was "designed" to.