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I got a kick out of this, have to look a little close:

Site doesn't like cell phone pictures. I download to the computer, resize and save with paint, then goes to site easy. Those old front tine tillers are tough, used to see the bouncing around and killing the operator, but keep on going.

Variable speed drive, two belts and varying pulley, singe blade, 30+/- inch blade. Friction reverse. Yep, beat the heck out of a 20" push mower with 1-1/2 hp Briggs.

Take a close look at the hole. Are there any threads left at the bottom of the hole? Put a stud in completely to the bottom, then put a nut on to hold carb. Or put the stud in with some JB weld, leave it sit overnight. Sometimes put a strip of small dia. solder down the hole and force the...

Pretty sure there were riders way before '63. Had a 4 hp motor and handlebar steering, tractor style seat. Hustler? I'm thinking Wheel Horse? This is the one I'm thinking of:

Or take it back to the dealer, either get it fixed or a new replacement?

Dad had an old Gravely that he put an electric starter on when he got too old to pull the strap. He'd turn it forward up on the top of the compression stroke, then hit the button. This would give it two crank rotations to get up to speed for starting. Old machine is still running and gets...

Reminds me of Harleys back in the mid 70s. Half assed final assembly and QC. Hope you can get it straightened out, customer service is pretty much non-existent these days.

If made in China, FOB west coast for about 30 dollars. Sell in Walmart/Amazon for 249.95. Good luck with warranty or service - or any concern whatsoever for your problem. That's today's marketplace.

From what I read when you turn one wheel goes forward while the other wheel actually goes reverse so not to pivot on that inside wheel. But I can't run one of those things at all.

If the cylinder has any serious wear and scoring, you'll see it with the piston down in the hole.

I'd try to relap the valves before doing anything serious. Having the valve sticking open a bit might have messed up the seat to valve contact. Get some lapping compound, probably videos on Youtube on this.

Would that have a Power Products motor on it? That machine goes way back for sure. If you get anywhere with it come back and post, interesting project.

Might check on that gas tank issue. There was/is a recall on a lot of the LB tanks like yours. I checked into it for my leaky F engine tank and it was covered but I would have had to take it to a dealer for replacement. Can't imagine any mower dealer these days fooling with a 40 year old Lawn...

Basic Briggs flathead Kool Bore.. I'd guess the cylinder is shot. New rings might help it but this is getting pretty common these days. The chrome plating on the piston wears and the bare aluminum surfaces rubbing together creates a mess. Hope I'm wrong but you'll have to pull the head and check.

How many hours on the 345?

Bought the wife a new HP desk top with Win 10 a year ago. Hear nothing but complaints and all I get done is trying to clean it out so it will work decent for a couple weeks. My Chromebook works flawless and this old Gateway with Win8 also works pretty decent.

Does this motor have a sleeved bore? Briggs&Stratton calls this an I/C - industrial commercial - engine. If it is sleeved the standard oil is probably ok. I'd still run the Kohler SH/SJ rated oil, or an additive.

I like that VW in your avatar. What does the oil in the mower look like when you drain it for an oil change?

I like that idea of using a ring, squared up with a piston, and comparing the end gap at it goes down the cylinder. Genius, or at least ingenious

Well everybody was thinking it, nobody would post, except me:

That picture is bogus. Anybody knows a Honda doesn't break down.

I suspect this has a brushless motor. These have a lot of electronics to power and control the motor and are highly stressed. One component goes south and it's done. Pretty expensive mower and most reviews are basically negative. Ouch.

The old LB mowers with alloy deck and good wheels that run seem to bring about $100 in season around here. Real handy for trimming but not used for serious mowing. Might post a couple pictures and the Lawn Boy enthusiasts on here can pin-point the year I suspect.

Better than me dragging around that load of leaves.

Are you saying the tractor won't move, and now you have no brakes at all?

Yes. That does have a neutral position.

That old Q-jet is probably good for 800 cfm, doubt they had efi back then that would keep up with that motor. Have one heck of a transmission in it too. If that machine was around here, pull the motor and rent the home out to a pipeliner for $750 a month.

Finally found the 00 grease and took the trimmer head apart. 5 year old Craftsman 25cc straight shaft trimmer. Kind of impressed with what I saw. Roller bearings, steel gears, all looked really good but the old grease seemed like it was just a gob laying there. The new grease is a thick...

Is there a screen type filter in the tank or the carb inlet? Most LBs have one somewhere in the fuel supply.

Does that have the two speed final drive? Might shift it back and forth a couple times to make sure those gears are engaged fully.

I could have some fun with that 454. Late model for a carb, wonder if it has a roller cam?

Do the blades fit tight on the mounting bolt or fit in a star shaped spline of sorts. Maybe one didn't get exactly right and being off balance cause some noise in the spindles or belt tensioners. Odd problem for sure.

When those bass fishers run out of beer they need to get to shore quick!

Any chance of some water in the gas? Just a little in the bottom of the carb bowl and the engine won't run right, or at all.

Not sure what kind of engine is on that mower but leaning it way over can really cause a mess in the motor sometimes. I usually make a chute out of cardboard to channel the oil from the drain pipe to a pan.

My take on this. If you somewhat enjoy mowing the lawn, get a lawn tractor, nice sounding smooth running V-twin with a decent hydro. If you just want to get it done and get off the thing as quick as possible, get a zero turn and learn the tricks.

Some of the newer carbs have a rubber insert in the recess for the float valve. If the needle has a metal tip look for that.

Might make no difference, but my Kohler has had their 10w30 in it since new. Last spring I was in Rural Kind and they had Valvoline oil on sale, way better than $8 a quart, got a couple quarts and changed the oil. Like you, I started smelling oil burning right off. Real quick I changed it...

I wonder if that's the inlet for the primer hose to push air into the float bowl to prime the engine for a cold start?

I'd guess the float or the float needle valve inside the carb needs attention. A really small piece of something in that needle valve will cause the overfill.

If that's a small engine have someone hold up the motor by the flywheel, then whack the crank a couple licks. I'll sometimes put some heat on the flywheel around the center to help.

The L series diagrams show the diodes in the coil circuits and separate line to the solenoids as above.

Yep that's one of them. Better have a stout back end on that boat.

One thing I don't like about those Kohlers is that info sticker. When that falls off it's trouble.

I've played around with the timing change from points to electronic and you see some advance, motor sounds a bit different, more power. Not to sure it's good for an old motor though.

Usually goes the other way, voltage drops. Wonder how a bridge rectifier would work in that circuit?

New key, clean the top of the crank and inside the flywheel taper, tighten that nut really tight. Should do it.

Always amazed me how much power those outboards make. Saw a smaller cruizer boat down in Florida with four 350hp outboards hanging on the back of it. Really wanted to take a ride in that monster.

Aha! As I've said before, learn something every day on here.