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Yes, that's the engine model #.

What is the model # of the mower? eg: 11a234xxxx What is the model # of the engine? Briggs eg: 12S912-1234-E1

Yes, pull wire off. Pull plug and ground side on metal engine part. Look for spark.

There is an engine # somewhere - valve cover, shroud, block. If Briggs - eg: 12S912-1234-E1. then code eg: 09111701

Kill wire - if insulation is rubbed off, it could be making contact with metal (ground) and killing the spark. So, pull kill wire connector off the coil and then look for spark.

Are the coil legs 1 business card away from the flywheel magnets? Is the kill wire insulation cracked/torn and you are killing spark? Pull wire off and look for spark. Other: sheared the flywheel key.

Seems criminal that you can't buy this part. Is it a transponder that communicates with a PCM, like in newer cars?

Around here, it'd be worth $50-200 USD. My gut says you are being scammed, BUT maybe there is cult following of 20yo USA made Murrays in the UK.

I wouldn't' do jb weld. I'd try at home first. Remember, the key is just for placement. It doesn't hold the FW - the super clean taper does. New key placed properly, ignore the "slice". Torque down good.

Pull the OHV cover and see if valves work when you pull rope. You'll watch rocker arms - when they go down - valve is opening. Intake valve opens, then closes; Exhaust valve opens, then closes. Check the valve clearances - between rocker arm and valve stem - many youtube videos.

Sounds like failed compression release. 1st you have to definitively diagnose. 1st step is remove blower housing and see if flywheel brake is staying off the flywheel when bail handle is pulled closed.

I agree - I bet you had a shifted key and a new key aligned perfectly will work. Wouldn't hurt to check valve clearances. Lots of youtube videos.

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/43cfbh1urw-000247/craftsman-917376301-gas-walk-behind-mower-parts Carburetor 632671 - search that - lots of $13 choices w/ gaskets.

You need to find the engine #. May be a 143.955500, which is a Tecumseh TVS-120. May be listed on a sticker. If not, find mower # - eg: 917.372852 and search web for IPL and see engine #. Louder than normal may be a blown head gasket. I had to replace it on my TVS-120. Starting fluid washes lube...

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/yard-machines-y28-41cdy28g000-2cycle-gas-trimmer-parts-c-22925_202192_202196.html #25 = $26

If dealer just fixed it, they should make it right. Not getting enough fuel at WOT is possible.

Post the model #. Eg: 126M05-1234-E1.

Agree. Gutentiten. Assume you mean cyl is loose from the pan. And you can use Motoseal between pan and cylinder.

Diaphragms - fuel pump ones vary widely. Metering ones are fairly standard WITHIN a company. - Walbros are 5 big holes, Zamas are 5 big/5 little holes. Although, some may have 2 or 3 little screws vs the more prevalent 4.

The boot/cap just pushes straight on. Is the broken central lead still in the "spring"? Can't tell from the pic. Or on some machines, you unscrew the "fat" adapter off the plug and insert the threaded screw straight into the boot spring.

Thanks, StarTech. Ah, the offsets will be different. The 917257573 appears to have good wheels - just bad tires. Looking for the ease of just changing the whole wheel/tire assembly buts it appears it will be a dismount/mount good tires on current wheels.

I just got an older Craftsman LT 917.257573 with bad front tires. The wheel bore is 3/4". I can find non-runner MTD LTs (Yard Machine, Yard Man, Huskee, Troy Bilt, maybe Cub Cadet) that are cheap enough to buy for parts. Is a newer MTD wheel bore 5/8" or 3/4"? Thanks, Doug

better get your chainsaw chaps. LMAO.

Pull the spark plug, stick a screwdriver or dowel in hole, pull rope slowly or turn flywheel screen by hand - see if piston is moving.

Engine model #? Probably on a valve cover. Eg: 442707-1234-E1

Thanks for clearing that up, Bert.

It's a fuel shutoff solenoid. Main purpose is to stop after fire (some call backfire) when you turn key off. When you remove spark (key off), you still have fuel dumped into the intake, which travels un-burned to the muffler and BAM! It should also prevent crankcase filling with gas from a leaky...

Octane ratings....Husqvarna states 90 (RON) (Europe). That translates to 86.5 (R+M/2), which is the rating you read on a US pump.

I just paid $2.19 for 87 Oct E0. 87 E10 was $1.62. That's a normal differential of ~ 60 cents higher for E0. I could use E10 in the GT but it has a diaphragm fuel pump and would need re-build more often. No E10 ever in little 2 strokes.

The welch plug looks funky. Did you punch it? Normally, use a big Allen wrench or wooden dowel, just smaller than the welch plug to seat it. And no clue on needle and float. Did you wire the horizontal and vertical holes in the bowl bolt? Seriously, tho.....if you can't induce fuel into plug...

The model #s may be dot stamped on block. Here's a 550EX.

First, fuel into carb throat. Does engine run?

Carbs do get gummed up. You need the Briggs 594601 - Nikki (before 2015) carb or 796184 overhaul kit. Search web for 331877-1371-B1. All kinds of parts houses come up. So many options - a $52 OEM overhaul kit or a new AfterMarket carb for $17. Spray fuel into the carb throat. See if engine runs...

A gasket downstream of the carb throat can affect running but have to be a big leak not to start. Make sure gasket isn't covering any carb holes that it shouldn't. Check your plug: dry? = no fuel mist in combustion chamber or wet? = flooding. And the choke - is it closed on a cold start?

Yeah, .006" and .008"

https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/engine_specs/briggs_valve_gaps.asp Most Briggs 6hp and under are Int .006 and Exh .008.

You need to pull the blower housing and inspect the silver Tstat wand. The location inside the air vane U is important. Youtube video -

Is this what you installed? On the far right is the silver tstat lever inside the U of the air vane. The front of the lever should be inside the front set of 2 lines and side set of 2 lines. (This one is off - too far back.) On the left is the air vane spring.

You may be able to find a muffler gasket sheet at AZ, AA, Oreiilys, etc and cut it. Bet it would be a royal pain. You may find an old Homelite trimmer on FB or CL - then rob the parts. Bad timing - I recently gave one of these away in a lot of broken trimmers.

I suspect Briggs is indicating rotation when looking at the PTO. 99%+ of mower engines rotate CW looking at FW.

If the engine runs normally with fuel sprayed in the carb throat.....it's a fuel delivery problem - bad fuel, tank vent, fuel line, carb. Maybe new carb bad?

Leaking where - the bowl bolt? Make sure fiber gasket is good and tighten a skosh more. If at the top of bowl - there should be a 2" bowl gasket.

If necessary, a new AM carb is real cheap. A RB kit and purge bulb would cost more. Search Carburetor 753-05251.

No, fuel line with filter (pickup) is port A. Do as Bert says - push the purge bulb and feel air - A will suck in, B will blow out. Although, that purge bulb looks rough - it may crack if it hasn't already. Will need a new one. And when the fuel lines disintegrate...the diaphragms in the carb do...

You did fine. New carb and bet it runs well.

Yours is 2004. Looks like they only made pull starters for 2012 and newer. Maybe another recoil can be adapted. Heck, for $70 price...I'd figure a way to wrap a rope with pull handle around the FW cup. Or I'd fix the electric start - 13hp 21ci engine is pretty hefty to be pulling on.

I see this # in multiple places. What is your date code? Starter-Rewind Part Number: 591606 Note: Used After Code Date 12082600 $68.72

change O to 0 and you can lookup. Deck housing is MTD 683-0265C. NLA. Find a used one? Probably tough but other MTD brand names used it - Troy Bilt, Huskee...

Post your engine model #. Eg: 28A707-1234-E1. On a shroud or valve cover.

Apply +12v to solenoid trigger wire terminal. Engine spins? Then, solenoid good. Then, look at your safety interlock switches. Most mowers have 3 - seat, clutch/brake, PTO. If one is bad, it won't complete starting circuit. Full mower model # and engine model # will yield better answers.