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Fuel solenoid shuts off fuel entering the air horn after you turn off the engine to prevent backfiring. Your problem is the float needle and seat are not sealing properly. Remedy is to remove the carb, clean and rebuild with a new needle.

Check your oil level and if it smells like gas. If so you have a carb flat needle that is not sealing properly. If not the problem I would be testing for blown head gaskets on both cylinders.

I have to admit that I sheared one on a Kohler twin when I turned the key to the start position while the engine was running. Jammed the bendix so hard that the flywheel just stopped. Didn’t expect that. Lucky I didn’t break the starter shaft or a rod off. Learned a lesson that day.

NO. First you said you set the magneto air gap at .030”, now you say you set the spark plug gap at.030”. The magneto air gap should be .010” and the plug gap should be .030”.

Blame my mistake on resting today not working. Sorry!!

This manual will probably be of some help. Retrofitting drag links probably aren’t helping your cause, as angles and lengths are critical. With a little research you may find bronze bushings to replace plastic, but I’ve had good results with OEM replacements. https://www.toro.com/getpub/48880

.003” air gap is TOO small. Should be .010”. This could easily be the cause of nonstarting. 65 psi could be the result of ACR working properly.

Just want to give a big shout out to all the veterans on this Memorial Day; THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE. Also want to remember all who paid the ultimate sacrifice for us so we can live the life we have. Without them who knows what we would be doing today. I know it wouldn’t be arguing about...

Yes, needs to get rid of that organic insulation and use synthetic. This will reduce the fire hazard.

Post #28 tells me you have a bad or loose connection in your starting circuit. Check to see if all connections are good and clean, plus tight. As the ground connection is through the starter housing, make sure that the starter is not loose.

Thank you for letting us know that the problem is solved. 95% of the time people don’t take the time to acknowledge that the problem has been solved. Takes to much effort.

When did this start occurring? All of a sudden or over time? Did you do any maintenance just before the problem showed up? Have you leveled the deck? If you are skipping that wide of a strip, I would be checking to see if all blades are turning at the same speed. Have you checked to see if...

Just my way of doing it. On Z-turn units I always inflate the front tires to 20 psi and rear to 10 psi. According to the owners manual Hustler recommends 8-12 psi for both front and rear.

Try this first. Push the throttle control to the fully choked position. Trace the throttle control cable to the engine. You will find a clamp which holds the cable to a bracket. Loosen this clamp and push the cable forward and while watching the choke lever on the carb. I’m guessing you...

I’m wondering if one broke, it was running for a while on one cylinder, then the other one broke. I’ve seen more than on engine running on one cylinder and the customer didn’t even notice it.

This is one time I would be taking it apart to find the cause. Never to old to learn something new, because this is so rare and haven’t seen it before.

If both pistons are not moving you will have to open the engine up to diagnose the problem.

ONPASSIVE. Please do NOT hijack another persons thread. By doing so you are doing more harm, as members do not understand why you would be posting here and you will only hurt the original posters chances of getting their problem fixed. Very, very poor etiquette on your part.

Please post the spec number for your Kohler engine and the part number for the coils you ordered. I would like to cross reference your parts.

When was the last time you changed the drive belt and checked the idler pulley and tensioner are. If the belt is 3+ years old, that could be your problem. If the tensioner arm doesn’t move freely, that could be your problem. If the idler pulley is worn, that could be your problem. Also could...

If it sat that long and the fuel lines are good I’m guessing the pump diaphragm is dried out and needs to be replaced.

If all you need is a new deck and can swap the parts yourself, a new deck is available. Do a google search “ Simplicity 1686978 deck” as they are available at a wide variety of prices.

I have no idea about electric mulching mowers, but in my opinion sticking money into that unit would not be a bad idea, unless you are seeing a problem with the engine. You have a quality unit worth a little TLC.

When was the last time you replaced the drive belt and carefully checked the idler and drive pulleys? A worn drive belt and or worn pulleys will cause this problem. Also, you should check the belt tensioner arm to make sure it is moving freely.

Guess your reading skills also need improvement. Both Star and I answered your question, plus Star went one step farther and explained how wrong idle speed can cause surging. The anomaly here is that we gave you an answer, but it is not the one you wanted, so we are as bad at being technicians...

All OEM carbs???

Must be part of the “I want it now and don’t do it later because I’m helping you out by coming to you” generation. These guys are the ones which since I retired I don’t miss. Got one down the road who never gets his back in less than three days, even though I fixed it the day he brought it in...

First of all, check your attitude and have a little patience. We are not at your beck and call. Do you assume the technicians on this site are waiting to serve others and should provide answers within 24 hours, we do have other lives and commitments., especially on the weekends. Service...

Don’t throw yourself under the bus to fast. We’ve all been there and done that. If you only do it once consider yourself lucky.

Chipper blades can be sharpened. I would check the condition of the drive belt. May be worn or tension loose allowing for slippage. If belt is more than 3 years old I would replace it.

Might try one of these sites which say they have an original. Beware Fleabay and Altozon are a crap shoot, make sure you call first or that it can be returned. https://gtmowers.com/briggs-stratton-593392-carburetor https://www.besttruckeq.com/593392.html...

TruFuel has nothing to do with it.

Then I suspect you have dirt in the carb from replacing the lines. Time to give a kit and rebuild the carb.

Are you looking for an OEM carb or carb rebuild kit? The spring is part number 217A on this site. https://www.partstree.com/models/44r877-0002-g1-briggs-stratton-vertical-engine/carburetor-fuel-supply-1/

This is a 4 year old thread, I assume the problem has been found.

Couple of questions. When you push the primer bulb, does it fill? When you replace the fuel line are you sure you attached them to the proper side of the primer? One side is an inlet and the other side sends fuel back to the tank when the primer bulb is full.

Must be too much work???

Doesn’t look like the part is still available. Did a Google search using that part number and found many supposedly available on the web. Your best bet would be to call each site to make sure they have one in stock.

Thank you for sharing what you found. Most guys don’t do that.

This manual for the twin. https://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/32_690_01_EN.pdf?_ga=2.142262005.699966129.1715971117-1884316627.1715971117

If it came to me there are two things I would check. Remove the shroud and flywheel bolt and check to see if the flywheel key is sheared. While you have the shroud off check to see if the cover bolts are tight. Common problem to find them loose. If these two checks result in a positive...

Also, check the battery with a volt meter when you engage the PTO. I never trust OEM gages. If the battery voltage drops below 10VDC your charging system may not be working properly.

I doubt you have a mulching blade, you’re probably talking about the mulching fan. This part drawing the grass and does NO cutting, so doesn’t need sharpening.

Try searching for this, you should find plenty. Lawn-Boy 92-7738 Flywheel Brake Cable

Section 10, page 100, should answer your questions. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kohler-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/Kohler-Service-Repair-Manual-Courage-SV470-SV480-SV530-SV540-SV590-SV600.pdf

Sears Parts Direct

Get the model numbers for all the units you are looking at and then look at the IPL to identify which parts you need and which parts are the same. This is what we have to do.

How about a bad spark plug wire or connection, opening as rpm’s increase. Or spark plug itself.

Try to remove 2 gauge power cable from a 72” two spindle rotary cutter. About 10 years ago customer came in dragging 20’ behind his cutter. Had to tip it over and use a cutting torch to get it out. Power company said it was the customers fault and wouldn’t pay a dime. I still don’t know why...

Maybe this manual will help. https://www.scribd.com/doc/47347672/Onan-P216-P218-P220-P224-Service-Manual