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I’ve had one in my toolbox for over 20 years, thought it was a common tool in everyone’s box.

I just took a look at three other Kawasaki manuals and I think the speeds posted in the 580 manual is a misprint. Should be 1550 RPMs for idle speed and 3600 RPMs for high no load speed. Someone put a space in the wrong place.

I’m guessing that the drive belt tensioner is not moving freely or pulley is bad. Also when was the last time the belt was replaced? When you reply be sure to include the units model and serial numbers so we can see the drive system.

The service manual does a good job of explaining how to assemble and adjust the governor. Your question about rpm’s has to do with idle speed only, which should be set between 550-600 RPMs. I suspect you have not set the static governor speed correctly. Reread the section (3) on how to do...

First off, don’t go beating yourself up for not seeing the problem earlier. Anyone of us who has not done the same thing is lying to you. Glad to hear you’re back in business and we will accept a month of lawn service for our meaningless help.

You stated in post #3 you have 12VDC at both small terminals on the solenoid when the key is in the start position. Now you stated you don’t, which one is it?

Simple test, depending on whether you have a 3 or 4 post solenoid. On a 4 post solenoid connect 12VDC across the two small terminals. Positive on one negative on the other. You should hear the solenoid click if it is good. On a 3 post solenoid connect the positive lead on the small post and...

Have you ever thought about contacting your local CC dealer? I know they are smarter than me.

Once again you don’t want to hear what Tiger and I are saying. In my couple of years servicing small engines I’ve seen more than one carb that looks clean, but has a blocked passageway. If you are depending just on your eyes to diagnose a dirty carb, there is not much help we can offer...

If you have 12+ VDC at both small terminals on the solenoid with the key in the start position, but 0 VDC on the second large terminal, I would be replacing the solenoid.

I think I’m smart enough to know that. You asked what size will fit? With modifications you can make anything fit. With your last post, why did you ask your first question? I’m saying BYE, as you are smarter than me.

Here is the troubleshooting procedure I use for these problems. Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things. 1. How well you understand basic electricity. 2. What tools you have and know how to use. 3. How well you follow directions. 4. You don't overlook...

I too was a great proponent of SeaFoam until about 10 years ago, but they changed their formula and now I wouldn’t recommend It to my enemies . Waste of money. Read this entire thread and there are three things I see. First the OP is hung up on his ideas and is poo-pooing suggests offered...

Only way anyone can help you is if you post the brand model and serial numbers for both the unit and engine. Without more info we’re just throwing darts at an empty board..

Looks like only the 42” deck will fit that unit without major modifications.

More than likely the float needle failed, allowing gas to flow through the carb, into the cylinder and then into the crankcase. Solution rebuild the carb with a new float needle.

Once had a 72” rotary mower that was used to cut a wet cow pasture. Need I say more.

Reported multiple threads

Reported

Next time you use the unit, run at full throttle and tell us what voltage you have. After you have completed your work shut it down and measure battery voltage, unit off. When you post back give us the model and serial numbers for the unit.

Unit serial number please?

Come’on, if you just sharpen the blade it will cut right through that. He’s just trying to my his own mulch. Times are tough.

Please post the model and serial numbers for the unit.

Any good repair shop should be able to help you out.

I’d love to see the colors of that exhaust valve.

Try this one. https://www.generatormagic.com/content/Manual/docs/0H0285.pdf

You need to start over, as we need more information. Model and serial numbers of unit, plus year and brand of unit.

Heat the lug nuts cherry red, then put the wrench on.

If you can I would take the mower and mulch plate along, so they can see the model and serial numbers, plus why you say you have the wrong one.

Those cracks you are seeing are casting marks, not cracks. If this came to my with your symptoms I would be giving the unit a good hot pressure wash to remove every bit of dirt or oil I could see. Next I would make sure everything is dry without running the unit. Next I use an old farmers...

What is the name of this publication?

Your best bet is to go to your local Toro dealer with the units model and serial numbers and have them order you the correct part. If it doesn’t fit they should not charge you as they looked up and ordered the correct part.

I’ll bet if you bought the plate off FleaBay someone repackaged a different plate and sold it to you

Only someone standing next to the unit can answer this question. What is loud to some, is just right to others.

As you stated these old mules are nearly unstoppable. I’m guessing because of its age and probably never really being serviced your carb needs a little TLC. If it came to me I would be removing, cleaning and rebuilding the carb with a new float needle and seat. Adjust the float level and...

I guess you know more than me, but I can tell you that you have a Magnatron coil which cannot be tested with a multimeter, due to the fact that it contains a Hall Effect trigger built into it. They can only be accurately tested with a very expensive piece of equipment. Your readings are...

The numbers you posted are all screwed up. I think the part number you need is 898862. Do a search with this number and see if it looks different than the part you got.

Six lug bolts, plus he’s already removed two. Must be going the correct direction.

I agree, but as you stated, you must know how to replace it. Also, labor will be more as to do it right you need to remove the coil, plus glue the new lead back in, plus still need to add a new connector. Definitely a difference in cost.

I understand that they may be replaced, but my repair is cheaper and can be done by anyone with a bit of mechanical expertise. Plus it is cheaper.

I’ve been using that tool for over ten years and have save myself and customers a lot of time and money. It’s one of those tools you wonder why you bought it until the first time you use it, then smile at the results. Saved more than one customer a major bill or junk outboard.

Because the high tension lead is short on these coils the only time I’ve used that style of connector is if someone has failed attaching the spring connector and failed, butchering the end. If I use them I make one adaption. I take a small piece of NiChrome or copper wire, about 1” long, and...

Now I’m a little concerned when you say Stihl shop. I’ve got to “Stihl shops in my area, which sell Stihl, authorized to repair them, but have very little knowledge on repairing other equipment, because they must repair to sell. Hopefully they are big enough to do both 2 and 4 cycle engines...

Where did you get the carb?

You requested information on any type of replacement connector to use on you brushcutter. I gave you info on where to get a replacement connector and boot, plus why Stihl uses that style of connector. Bert gave you a couple other types of solutions which may work with info on where they are...

With that engine more than likely the man jet is clogged. Depending on your ability you can try to clean and rebuild the carb or replace the main jet. I’ve attached a breakdown of your carb. https://www.partstree.com/models/125p02-0012-f1-briggs-stratton-vertical-engine/carburetor-group-4/

Provide us with the engine model, type and code numbers so we have an idea of which engine you have. Should be located on the shroud or muffler guard.

Got it

Found this. https://www.championpowerequipment.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/100340-om-english.pdf

I’ll be back tomorrow.