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First, from the parts you listed I don’t think you are rebuilding a pulley, but more than likely you are rebuilding the spindle housing. This is not that hard, as the only replacement parts are the bearings, maybe a new spindle and the spacer inside the spindle housing. Before removing the...

Please give us the tractor model and serial numbers, plus the part numbers for the parts you ordered. There are different setups and with those numbers we can tell you what needs to be done. Many have rebuilt these setups many times, we need to see your setup to advise you.

Sorry but you’re out of luck with my model. It is a model YA201 which not around anymore. Only way to find one is get lucky on FleaBay, but remember “BUYER BEWARE “. Make sure you have a good seller and have a good old auto mechanic test it out.

Personally I would recommend a tester where you can actually put a load on the battery. Being an old fart I would like to see if the battery can take a load, not have guess whether a cell may be bad or not. I’ve been using my old Snap On analog which tells me the condition of the battery, but...

This user manual may answer your questions. https://www.konnwei.com/upload/KW208%20User%20manual.pdf

Never had an ongoing problem with LMT carbs, just with people who don’t take care of them.

You have got to be kidding me!!! Scrap a riding deck after every mow? I’ve never heard or have recommended this. What would grass under the deck have to do with rusting pulleys? If they would have said ”Blow off the top of the deck after every mow I would agree”. This would prevent a...

Rusty pulleys not diagnosed by to dealers, but still covered by manufacturers warranty after you apply pressure. Sorry, but I don’t buy it. I doubt they would have given you the old parts back, would claim they need to be sent back for analysis. Guess only time will tell if the problem has...

I hope your receipt has an explanation of what repairs were made. I many other techs on this site would like to know Scags solution.

This manual may help you out. https://www.toro.com/getpub/22446

Read this manual for troubleshooting procedure. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kohler-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/Kohler-Service-Repair-Manual-Command-CV11-CV12.5-CV13-CV14-CV15-CV16-CV460-CV465-CV490-CV495.pdf

If my memory is any good, the cover to access the valve stems, is behind the carb.

If you go with the cheaper one, just remember to change oil and filter each season.

You should have no problems with either choice.

Square key stock is square key stock. You should be OK.

Belt number should be 144959 and 95.5” long. Yes, a .5” will make a difference in tension on the belt engagement.

Where did you get the belt, as the belt could be the wrong size, too short. Post numbers under the seat so we can check which OEM belt you need.

Check your belt routing. Many times I’ve seen DIY guys route them wrong, putting extra tension on the belt.

Looks like the inside of the gas cap.

First do you have a small wire on the terminal on the switch where the battery is connected? This wire supplies current to the key switch? If yes and if I’m working on this unit the next thing I would do is check for power 12VDC at the key switch, B terminal. If yes, do you have power at the...

You have a 4 post solenoid. One of the two small wires should be the ground. Most would guess the green one, but I NEVER ASSUME. Check to see which one goes to a chassis ground. What is that connection, green to black, on the right hand side of the picture?

Sounds like a loose connection somewhere. First thing I would check is the solenoid ground. If you have a 3 post solenoid, it is grounded through the solenoid frame, when it is bolted in place. Make sure that this is very clean, no paint or corrosion between the two. If it is a4 post...

It’s a whole lot easier to check the float level in the carb than adjusting the valve clearance on a L-Head engine.

I’m smarter than you. My theory’s are facts, your theory’s are just what you want to believe. Remember, everything you read on the World Wide Web is the absolute truth and based on time honored facts, so what ever you say won’t change my mind.

Did you read my entire post? Your next step is to do a voltage drop test. First rule when you do electrical troubleshooting; NEVER ASSUME ANYTHING, CHECK EVERYTHING TWICE.

Something is not hooked up correctly, or you may have gotten a wrong part when you started throwing parts at it, instead of going through a troubleshooting procedure. Here is the service manual which should help you out. https://www.toro.com/getpub/78978

Start with something simple. Hopefully you have a volt meter. Attach the meter across the battery and observe the meter reading. Should be a minimum of 12.6DCV if fully charged. If not fully charged, attach a battery charger to fully charge the battery. Next try to start the unit, watching...

Personally I doubt your problem is valve clearance. To many times valves are blamed before easier solutions are exhausted.

First, this is a 2010 model. When you cleaned the carb, did you replace the float needle and seat, plus adjust the float level? I’m guess that being that old the seat has swelled and it is resulting in a lean starting and running condition. I normally set the float level slightly rich which...

Those are Briggs numbers. I need the Toro numbers, look under rearbagger cover.

Please post the mowers serial number as I don’t remember Toro installing a 7hp Briggs engine on their steel deck mowers.

Someone had WAY to much time on their hands during COVID.

Do you live in Canada? Your Noma tractor was built by Murray. Model number E4314-020. No one seems to be supporting these units any more. In this case (I hate to say this) but I suggest you find the oldest mechanic in your area and have him look at what you have. Because of its age we can’t...

Is that the first or second dealer?

Maybe a squeaky wheel does get greased. Which dealer gave you the call? Please let us know what repairs they are going to make and why.

Please double check your model number, the number you post doesn’t show up.

Color of the spark makes very little difference, you just need to check to see if you have any spark at all when the unit dies.

Rice, do you realize that this thread is 3.5 years old?

2009 models have a serial number starting with 29#$XXXX

I’d have to trace them before I could tell you where those wires go, but since the unit did operate before I doubt they are the problem. To me it sounds like a battery problem. Take a reading across the battery while turning the switch to the start position. If battery voltage drops below...

Look at this. I would buy ANYTHING off Fleabay, but it has the Kawasaki part number. https://www.ebay.com/itm/176327224632

Battery, switch and wires are for electric starting only and have nothing to do with the engine starting or running. You will have to troubleshoot the engine to find out if you have a fuel or ignition problem causing your not starting problem.

Can you better describe the vibration, as COVID has turned our crystal balls into snow globes. We are not standing next to you to see what you see. What color were the plugs you cleaned? I would start with new plugs, double check they are the right ones, and check whether both sides are...

Try this troubleshooting procedure, which I use. Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things. 1. How well you understand basic electricity. 2. What tools you have and know how to use. 3. How well you follow directions. 4. You don't overlook or assume...

Something doesn’t seem right to me. Four belt failures within 100 hours, even though the first dealer didn’t see a rust problem. I agree rust might cause this, but it can also be a cop out for poor diagnostics. I’m puzzled why the dealer is making it so easy for the manufacturer. Second...

This might be your manual? https://www.briggsandstratton.com/content/dam/briggsandstratton/na/en_us/Files/FAQs/Model%209-domestic.pdf

What were we talking about?

Carb float needle and seat are not sealing properly. Time to clean and rebuild carb with new needle and seat.

I knew I’d seen it before. Briggs part number is 291659 for breaker assembly.

Is that a motorcycle engine? I know I’ve seen that setup before, but age has fogged my memory. I’ve got both of those tools, plus a plastic Briggs condenser spring compressor.